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Sun Sep 21, 2008 9:49 pm

On the back of my 73's super next to the rear window (and down a little) on each side are rust spots and one of them is pitting (not sure if that's correct "lingo" or not but its really eating away at the metal).

What's the best way to fix that? Seeing as how I'm 18 with only a part time job I can't really afford much, so I guess a better question would be What's the best and cheapest way to fix the pits?

Sun Sep 21, 2008 10:39 pm

Any kind of body filler or high build primer.
Something you can sand.

Sun Sep 21, 2008 10:45 pm

BONDO..........................or alumalead

Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:50 am

parkerkleutsch wrote: On the back of my 73's super next to the rear window (and down a little) on each side are rust spots and one of them is pitting (not sure if that's correct "lingo" or not but its really eating away at the metal).

What's the best way to fix that? Seeing as how I'm 18 with only a part time job I can't really afford much, so I guess a better question would be What's the best and cheapest way to fix the pits?

the best *and* cheapest? they are different...

the best is to cut out the rust because you have more that you can't see yet, it is very common for the fat chicks to develop rust there due to leaks from the flow through vents that saturate the foam inside that cavity...

the cheapest way is to fill it as has been suggested, but that is just temporary(and a coverup, not a fix), the rust will continue and the filler will bubble up too...

Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:53 am

if your not going to cut and even if you are going to cut definetely use a rust inhibitor on the bare metal before filling. i reccomend Rust Bullet. me personally i am not a fan of bondo and i prefer to use fiberglass. yes it is a little harder and messier to work with but you'll get good at it.

Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:39 am

bon2198 wrote: if your not going to cut and even if you are going to cut definetely use a rust inhibitor on the bare metal before filling. i reccomend Rust Bullet. me personally i am not a fan of bondo and i prefer to use fiberglass. yes it is a little harder and messier to work with but you'll get good at it.

Fiberglass doesn't mesh well with sheet metal repairs. Over time it cracks and separates due to the different expansion/contraction rates when exposed to heat and cold.

Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:14 am

Sounds like you have the typical late model ventilator rust. The foam insulation behind that panel is getting wet, and holding moisture there.
Until you fix the cause of the problem, it will keep coming back.

Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:20 am

Russ Wolfe wrote: Sounds like you have the typical late model ventilator rust. The foam insulation behind that panel is getting wet, and holding moisture there.
Until you fix the cause of the problem, it will keep coming back.

for now i just want it to last me through the winter without getting any worse than it already is.
i know the only way to fix the problem is to tear into it, however i don't have the time, space, or money to do so...or a welder
for now i'm just concerned with using this bug as a daily driver (taking it into FLAPS today to get the engine running because they've got the tools i need)
after a few years of saving more money, <i>then</i> i'll start restoring it properly

Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:30 am

the 'pits' are small at the moment, and you want to seal them so no more water will get in (for a while). Take a knife and scrape a small area on and around the pit, hit it with something to dimple it, and use 2 part
JB Weld to fill it in. It is waterproof. Smooth it and coat it with a waterproof paint.

Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:34 am

Russ Wolfe wrote: Sounds like you have the typical late model ventilator rust. The foam insulation behind that panel is getting wet, and holding moisture there.
Until you fix the cause of the problem, it will keep coming back.

So is the moisture coming from the ventilator that is on post 72 bugs, or condensation on the inside of the metal roof leaking down into the styrofoam? When did they start putting styrofoam into that cavity? I thought it was that element, holding the moisture from natural condensation.

Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:40 am

They started putting foam in about 1970 I think. Prior to that, it was a bag full of cotton cloth scraps. At least the cotton would dry out if it got wet.

Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:40 am

the rust and pitting is on the rear post just above the deck lid and in line with the bottom of the window