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Mon Sep 22, 2008 3:30 pm

I've recently pulled my father's old Super Beetle out of storage after 18 years and amazingly enough everything still looks like it's in decent shape. The engine was completely rebuilt about 2 months before he parked it 18 years ago and it ran fine then. We did all the necessary pre-lube and turning the crank with a wrench before we tried to turn it over with the started. It turns over nice and smooth now with the starter but we can't seem to get any fire. So far we've replaced: battery(of course), voltage regulator, coil, condenser, rotor button, rotor cap, plugs, wires, and checked points. We can't seem to get any fire from the coil or plugs. I'm at a loss and I found this site through searching and there are tons of helpful posts here, i just can't seem to find one with my exact problem, feel free to point me in the right direction if there is a post like this. Thanks for any help u guys can give!!!

-Andy

Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:08 pm

I just went through the same with my new super. Get a voltmeter and put it on the + side of the coil.

With the key in the "on" position you should see 12volts, if it is there good (just remember not to leave the key in that position long or you will cook the coil)

Assuming you have 12 volts in the "on" position try it in the "start" position, and be carefull the pulleys will be moving.

I had the 12 volts at "on" and nothing at "start", this means you have a bad connection somewhere between the key and the coil, mine happened to be the ignition switch.

Good luck

Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:12 pm

make sure that the dizzy is timed correctly. start from scratch.

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/instdist.htm

Tue Sep 23, 2008 3:50 am

This is a very useful site for VW electrics.

http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/spark.htm

jim

Tue Sep 23, 2008 4:42 pm

adams77 wrote: I just went through the same with my new super. Get a voltmeter and put it on the + side of the coil.

With the key in the "on" position you should see 12volts, if it is there good (just remember not to leave the key in that position long or you will cook the coil)

Assuming you have 12 volts in the "on" position try it in the "start" position, and be carefull the pulleys will be moving.

I had the 12 volts at "on" and nothing at "start", this means you have a bad connection somewhere between the key and the coil, mine happened to be the ignition switch.

Good luck

I did all of this and the + side of the coil dropped to 10volts as we turned it over so I'm still getting voltage. I'm at a loss now, Only thing I haven't changed or really checked much is the points. I visually saw that they were opening and closing when we turned the engine over with a wrench but I suppose they couldn't be mating. I don't see how that would keep me from getting a spark out of the coil though. I'm at a loss now. :?

Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:07 pm

You should check continuity through the points when they are closed and then look for them to loose continuity when they open.

Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:42 am

Yep, I've got continuity closed and opened. Guess I'll replace the points today.

Wed Sep 24, 2008 3:10 pm

I did a lil further investigating into the points. If I disconnect the condenser wire while the points are open I don't get continuity, however if I connect the condenser wire to the points I have continuity even when the points are open. I'm trying to figure out if this means I have a short somewhere or if maybe I'm just overlooking something. You guys are extremely helpful!!!

Wed Sep 24, 2008 3:18 pm

Hook a test light up to the negative side of the coil and ground. With the ignition on, as the engine turns over, the light should turn on and off.