TheSamba.com :: View topic - Ever see a Creative car craft tin? (update)

Sat Dec 11, 2010 5:25 am

Part of the reason for the bar on the pancake motor was because of it's weight. The upright is way less weight then the pancake. Mine is a '73 and it has been in there about a year with no issues and no bar

Sat Dec 11, 2010 7:00 am

The mustache bar started in '68 because the transmission bell housing was no longer supported by the frame. I'm not sure if the metal supporting the transmission on the '72 and on buses is strong enough. I wouldn't think a 1600 has enough torque to damage the rubber transmission mounts but who knows.

Sat Dec 25, 2010 9:23 pm

do you have to have the tin to do the conversion? or is it just for looks to make it look pretty and to fill in the holes from where the pancake motor went?

Sat Dec 25, 2010 9:35 pm

mabire wrote: do you have to have the tin to do the conversion? or is it just for looks to make it look pretty and to fill in the holes from where the pancake motor went?

Yes, you need it.

Sat Dec 25, 2010 9:35 pm

is there to keep the hot air away from the heads, cylinders etc.

Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:42 pm

Quote: do you have to have the tin to do the conversion? or is it just for looks to make it look pretty and to fill in the holes from where the pancake motor went?

I don't know whether to cry or laugh. Really -

magnus0328 wrote: is there to keep the hot air away from the heads, cylinders etc.

yes - inhale helium and blow on the engine while reciting Sylvestor Stallone lines from Rocky.

Have you two guys ever thought about hooking up and doing a comedy gig together like Blue Collar Tour?

Sun Dec 26, 2010 5:30 am

Glenn wrote this about the tins a few years ago:

"In a sedan all the tin is needed. It helps keep the hot air from being sucked back into the fan shroud and slowly cooking the engine.

You need all the tin and make sure the body seal is in good condition."

How is this different from what I posted about the tins? My post was basic enough for the new member to get the idea.

Sun Dec 26, 2010 11:35 am

magnus0328 wrote: Glenn wrote this about the tins a few years ago:

"In a sedan all the tin is needed. It helps keep the hot air from being sucked back into the fan shroud and slowly cooking the engine.

You need all the tin and make sure the body seal is in good condition."

How is this different from what I posted about the tins? My post was basic enough for the new member to get the idea.

The new member has two threads going on this. Read the other and my take is he isn't concerned about a solution. He just wants to ghetto rig it and get it going. He doesn't want to put money into it. Painted aluminum-foil-covered cardboard, HVAC duct tape, and old pie pans will be his route rather than expensive aftermarket tin.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=444361

Sun Dec 26, 2010 2:40 pm

i do care about my bus and i am going to buy the creative tin, i was just asking if it was a neccesity for the bus

Tue Apr 26, 2011 11:20 am

glad I saw this thread!!! my '74 has a blown 1800 out and in pieces in boxes... I have my 1600 from my Bug that's not goin' back in the Bug, so I'm gonna put it in the '74... I've been searchin' for tins I could use, and didn't even think of CCC... I got a full set of their wide fenders for the Bug, very good quality and DOPE!!!

Tue Apr 26, 2011 11:42 am

Keeby Swaggz wrote: glad I saw this thread!!! my '74 has a blown 1800 out and in pieces in boxes... I have my 1600 from my Bug that's not goin' back in the Bug, so I'm gonna put it in the '74... I've been searchin' for tins I could use, and didn't even think of CCC... I got a full set of their wide fenders for the Bug, very good quality and DOPE!!!

Just check the input shaft on your tranny. It may need to be trimmed a little on the end with a grinder

Tue Apr 26, 2011 11:44 am

will do, mine's the 002 so in theory I should be okay... but thanks for the heads up...

Tue Apr 26, 2011 12:15 pm

Keeby Swaggz wrote: will do, mine's the 002 so in theory I should be okay... but thanks for the heads up...
Just because it's an 002 doesn't mean the shaft is compatible with a type 1, if it has ears on the bellhousing ro the upper mount it's likely got the type 4 shaft, better do some measuring.

Tue Apr 26, 2011 12:24 pm

I got lucky. The 1600 fit my '73 without having to trim the input shaft.

Tue Apr 26, 2011 1:22 pm

busdaddy wrote: Keeby Swaggz wrote: will do, mine's the 002 so in theory I should be okay... but thanks for the heads up...
Just because it's an 002 doesn't mean the shaft is compatible with a type 1, if it has ears on the bellhousing ro the upper mount it's likely got the type 4 shaft, better do some measuring.

will do, thanks...

Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:18 pm

cool thread.......ive been savin up to buy this tin for my t-1 powered 72,

although some factory world market tins would be super sweet too if anyone wants to sell some :wink:

Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:33 pm

Quote: C.A.R.S ---classic.auto.restoration&services
Quote: ive been savin up to buy this tin for my t-1 powered 72,

Hmnnnnnnnnnnn - they are a comedy team. One more has joined. Lets see, if we mate a buffalo with a elephant do we get a elefo or a buffalant?

Mon May 23, 2011 8:35 am

Hi all, I know this is an old thread but I just did this conversion and have a few questions. First off this is what I am working with. I have a 72 hard top camper that I have installed a 1600dp in. I am using the CCC Filler tin and it looks and works great. The motor is in and will run but I am still working all the bugs out. My questions are about the alternator hook up and brake booster hose. Does anyone know where I should run the brake booster hose? I used to be hooked up the the intake manifolds but the new motor does not have these ports. I think the alternator on this motor has a built in regulator but I am not sure. How would I determine if it does or does not?
It has a chrome sleeve wrapped around it and has two posts on top of it. There are 2 wires coming out of the wiring harness that used to run to the voltage regulator and they have female electrical connectors on them. Are these the wires I should run to the alternator? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I hope I have provided enough information and please excuse my ignorance I am not much of a mechanic but am trying to get this right without frying any electrical components. Also thanks to everyone out the for feeding this thread, it made doing this conversion a lot easier than just flying blind.

Mon May 23, 2011 9:17 am

Hi Jayson,
Please post some pics of your work. It makes things a lot easier for us.

As far as the vacuum for your brake booster goes. We need to know what you have for carburetion. If you are running a stock 1600dp then it has a single 34pict-3. The 1971 bus had that same engine and was the first year with power brakes. The intake manifold had a 1/2 port off to the drivers side for hook up to the booster.

As far as your alternator goes I can't help you unless you find out it's an internally regulated alternator. I'm sure there are people here that can tell the difference.