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Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:42 pm

what is everyones thoughts on these? good? bad? eh?

Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:03 pm

Good = Easy to change out.

Bad = Could leak.

If you have the time to do it right, do it.

Adjustable tubes should be used if the car cannot afford any down time.

If you must use adjustable ones, use Jaycee tubes, they're the best. Empi = leaky

Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:49 pm

Out of complete honesty, I took all the tin off to retorque my driver's side head WITH THE MOTOR IN THE CAR, and I dont see any reason why there isnt enough room to slide the head out an inch and put a new pushrod tube in there. Really, it's not that hard getting the main tin off and over the oil cooler IF, you take the hood latches off (3x10mm bolts on eather side). You dont even need a jack! It really isnt that hard, go for it, give it a try. It also opens a world of doors, like changing the alt/gen easily without removing the motor.

The only part that is hard about clearance, is the main bar across the back of the tin, the one that is used for the thermostat. and still it isnt too hard. Single carb'd car, I would say 50-60 min, time for total job of pushrod tube, just dont forget new pushrod tube seals, always replace the seals, they like to leak after removed, no matter what.

just my .02
Nathan

Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:06 am

fastinradford wrote: Out of complete honesty, I took all the tin off to retorque my driver's side head WITH THE MOTOR IN THE CAR, and I dont see any reason why there isnt enough room to slide the head out an inch and put a new pushrod tube in there. Really, it's not that hard getting the main tin off and over the oil cooler IF, you take the hood latches off (3x10mm bolts on eather side). You dont even need a jack! It really isnt that hard, go for it, give it a try. It also opens a world of doors, like changing the alt/gen easily without removing the motor.

The only part that is hard about clearance, is the main bar across the back of the tin, the one that is used for the thermostat. and still it isnt too hard. Single carb'd car, I would say 50-60 min, time for total job of pushrod tube, just dont forget new pushrod tube seals, always replace the seals, they like to leak after removed, no matter what.

just my .02
Nathan

yeah, i knew i could do it with the motor in. but i have the motor out currently so i'm changing just about everything i can right now while it's pretty easy to get to. i have dual carbs, no thermostat. i always take the decklid off to take the motor out. makes it so much easier to get to my carb bolts so i know what your saying about opening up some doors. and you don't have to croutch around under there.

thank you for the tips!!!

Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:48 am

bon2198 wrote: fastinradford wrote: Out of complete honesty, I took all the tin off to retorque my driver's side head WITH THE MOTOR IN THE CAR, and I dont see any reason why there isnt enough room to slide the head out an inch and put a new pushrod tube in there. Really, it's not that hard getting the main tin off and over the oil cooler IF, you take the hood latches off (3x10mm bolts on eather side). You dont even need a jack! It really isnt that hard, go for it, give it a try. It also opens a world of doors, like changing the alt/gen easily without removing the motor.

The only part that is hard about clearance, is the main bar across the back of the tin, the one that is used for the thermostat. and still it isnt too hard. Single carb'd car, I would say 50-60 min, time for total job of pushrod tube, just dont forget new pushrod tube seals, always replace the seals, they like to leak after removed, no matter what.

just my .02
Nathan

yeah, i knew i could do it with the motor in. but i have the motor out currently so i'm changing just about everything i can right now while it's pretty easy to get to. i have dual carbs, no thermostat. i always take the decklid off to take the motor out. makes it so much easier to get to my carb bolts so i know what your saying about opening up some doors. and you don't have to croutch around under there.

thank you for the tips!!!

Well, if you have the engine out, just install the original tubes!!! Any two-piece tubes just add more places for leakage.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:16 am

Don't get the plastic ones.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 7:12 am

I have the Scat with double o-ring seals in tubes in my bug for about a year and half now. No problems or leaks yet. I had the engine out shortly after I installed them, but I decided to leave them in just to see if all the naysayers are correct.

I have yet to see a post where someone actually had real experience to say theirs leaked, just opinions.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 8:17 am

My brother has a set og scat tubes like in above pic , ther are atleast 10 years old and been in a couple different engines and he loves them .

Thu Oct 23, 2008 12:42 pm

Paul D wrote: I have the Scat with double o-ring seals in tubes in my bug for about a year and half now. No problems or leaks yet. I had the engine out shortly after I installed them, but I decided to leave them in just to see if all the naysayers are correct.

I have yet to see a post where someone actually had real experience to say theirs leaked, just opinions.

i know everyone hates EMPI but the EMPI ones look exactly like those except for blue. same gaskets and everything, i went and looked at them down at Fisher Buggies (no they don't do any of my maintenance i do it all myself). they got them for 74.99 minus my military discount of 10%. i'm thinking of getting them. they are not plastic either.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:49 pm

I don't recommend the EMPI pushrod tubes for long-term usage. I have found the springs to be very poor quality...they don't retain their spring tension and will "stick" in the compressed state sometimes and can be difficult to stretch out again.

I then switched to the JayCee pushrod tubes, however, they leak constantly from the centre O-rings...but they have excellent springs.

So, I ended up taking the EMPI tubes and installing the Jaycee springs for the "best" fit...

Thu Oct 23, 2008 7:17 pm

Quote: I don't recommend the EMPI pushrod tubes for long-term usage. I have found the springs to be very poor quality

Yet another fine product by EMPI.

Fri Oct 24, 2008 6:51 am

Those nylon ones they love to sell you, don't even think about it. Mine broke and the spring sent the one end through the cylinder into the rocker. The seal folded over when warm. I oughta make some cheap parts throw a cool label on it and sell them and make millions, oh wait, empi already did that.

Fri Oct 24, 2008 7:52 am

I'd alway thought that those double-Oring style ones ought to work pretty well. That style was derived from the factory style tubes they used for in-car replacement on Vanagons. And I've not seen any issues with the Vanagon ones. But... this is the first I'd heard of the bug versions having bad springs. :(

Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:42 am

If you must use spring loaded push rod tubes use the Scat O ring units or the Jaycee ones everything else is bad news.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 7:58 am

So after reading this I decided to buy a set of the Scat tubes and I am now in need of advice for installation.
Any wisdom from the gallary ? :D

-Rameses!

Sat Oct 25, 2008 9:28 am

Rameses wrote: So after reading this I decided to buy a set of the Scat tubes and I am now in need of advice for installation.
Any wisdom from the gallary ? :D

-Rameses!

compress the spring and throw a zip tie to hold it compressed. put in all your O rings, put the two pieces together get them in place and cut the zip tie.... and BAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they are in place. also, you don't have to take the head off to get your old push rod tubes out. i beat mine with a hammer until they bent (was not very difficult) and pulled them out.

enjoy

Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:31 am

What bon said, I'd pre-oil the o rings a little and slide them around to see if they're sealing properly. Make sure you put the pushrods the same way they came out of (I do this out of habit, sure haven't seen a problem yet).

Take the time and clean out the places where the pushrod tube seats into really well, don't want dirt preventing a good seal.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 2:28 pm

li_gangyi wrote: What bon said, I'd pre-oil the o rings a little and slide them around to see if they're sealing properly. Make sure you put the pushrods the same way they came out of (I do this out of habit, sure haven't seen a problem yet).

Take the time and clean out the places where the pushrod tube seats into really well, don't want dirt preventing a good seal.

also, not sure if this is crucial or not, but it was reccomended to me that the spring side go toward the head. not sure why, but it did make it real easy for me to install mine. maybe just because it's easier?

Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:18 pm

bon2198 wrote: li_gangyi wrote: What bon said, I'd pre-oil the o rings a little and slide them around to see if they're sealing properly. Make sure you put the pushrods the same way they came out of (I do this out of habit, sure haven't seen a problem yet).

Take the time and clean out the places where the pushrod tube seats into really well, don't want dirt preventing a good seal.

also, not sure if this is crucial or not, but it was reccomended to me that the spring side go toward the head. not sure why, but it did make it real easy for me to install mine. maybe just because it's easier?

The flange on the tube is longer on the spring side, which goes into the case. Then the double o-rings are uphill, which probably is better to prevent leaks.