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Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:14 pm

OK here is the deal. I rebuilt my CV's and also replaced the steel flanged boots. I torqued all of the bolts to the proper spec but I continue to sling grease from the joint where the CV meets the axle flange and also where the boot flange meets the CV. Is this common? Has anyone else experienced this? What is the solution to stop this? Can I use permatex on these connections to try and prevent this.

Any and all help will be appreciated

THANKS

Robert

Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:20 pm

Is this the case on all 4?

what cv grease are you useing?

my inner cv's leaked but that was because my trans was leaking gear oil in to them. and washing out the grease. skid also had the same problem.

Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:25 pm

Yes this is the case on all four. I am using the packets grease that came with the EMPI boot kits. I have also went back and rechecket the torque on all of the bolts. I will get some pics posted in a few.

Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:35 pm

is the cv grease real watery to start with ?

how hard do you drive the car ?

If the cv's are working to there limits they will get hot thining the grease and start to fling grease. I had this problem on my car when i ran bus cv's

i just spent like $50 on the good grease at mckinses I forgot what it was called. :? i will look at the tube when i get home.

Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:36 pm

I had the same problem, but for a different reason.
I use zip ties on the axle side and clear silicone where the CV flange on the boot meets the CVJ. If you do this dont use caulking, use 100% silicone.

Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:41 pm

Here is the RAIL

Here is the LEAK

Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:44 pm

kbwakesk8 wrote: is the cv grease real watery to start with ?

how hard do you drive the car ?

If the cv's are working to there limits they will get hot thining the grease and start to fling grease. I had this problem on my car when i ran bus cv's

i just spent like $50 on the good grease at mckinses I forgot what it was called. :? i will look at the tube when i get home.

Grease is kind of watery but no different than any other CV grease that I have used in the past on other applications.

As far as How Hard do I drive. Well the car is 100% street use and I havent never been over 106mph. My normal daily driving to and from work or around town usally sees 60-70mph max.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 6:33 am

Might want to do some research but I think your joints are in backwards. My laptops resolution is not the greatest, but do you have washers on the bolts? The grooves on the outer ring go towards the wheel/trans. You can also "clock" the joints if you wish, but for the street it is not necessary.
I don't think any of these points have anything to do with the grease leaking though. Did you clean everything good on the stub and trans?

Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:59 am

TRIM THIS 1 wrote: Might want to do some research but I think your joints are in backwards. My laptops resolution is not the greatest, but do you have washers on the bolts? The grooves on the outer ring go towards the wheel/trans. You can also "clock" the joints if you wish, but for the street it is not necessary.
I don't think any of these points have anything to do with the grease leaking though. Did you clean everything good on the stub and trans?

Yes, I have the washers that came with the bolts on the bolts.
I will check them to make sure that the grooves are facing the correcr direction.
Please explain "clocking" the joints. I have never heard of this.

Yes, I cleaned every thing vere well. The joints were cleaned with acetone and then edges were run over with a brass wire brush. The surfaces were very smooth.

THANKS for your input.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 12:06 pm

here you go, you've got some reading ahead of you... :wink:

http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

and here for "good to know" http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CVJoints_Axles/cv_joints_101.htm

Sat Oct 25, 2008 2:16 pm

Hey GhiaBateman THANKS ALOT for the LINKS.

Now it is time to tear them apart and start all over.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 3:14 pm

You might also check to see if the axle is hitting the metal flange of the boot.

IIRC, there should be some long arced washers under the CV bolts that seem to be missing from your photos. This might be the cause of your leaks as they hold he flange more tightly against the CV.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 6:39 pm

Here is a picture of the curved plates that might be missing from your CV installation: Each is under two of the CV bolts and they tend to flatten out the flange of the boot.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 6:44 pm

GeorgeL wrote: Here is a picture of the curved plates that might be missing from your CV installation: Each is under two of the CV bolts and they tend to flatten out the flange of the boot.

Yes they are missing. They were not there when I bought the rail nor were they provided with the replacement boots. I will get some of them and install them when I put them back together.

THANKS

Sat Oct 25, 2008 7:54 pm

Like this

Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:01 am

Yes, like the picture. If you can r&r the bearings, clocking is a piece of cake. Just a little extra insurance. I've gone through a bunch of joints trying to set this car up. Mild off road rail. I was off on the degrees. My type 2's are good up to 17* with car off the ground. I hope I've got the setup right now, everything is new. Shocks,straps,axles, CV's etc. Straps keep it at 15* on the ground. Master Craft 4 loops look much better than my old Beards.
I packed my joints like I'm sure you did, packed the stub and tranny, and used a spoon to grease around the boot. Just at the outer edge. Then zipped tied the boots. No leaks.
And just a side note, the CV that lasted the longest in the car was run at the trans, then at the wheel, and all the time in backwards. Go figure.

Sun Oct 26, 2008 12:48 pm

TRIM THIS 1 wrote: And just a side note, the CV that lasted the longest in the car was run at the trans, then at the wheel, and all the time in backwards. Go figure.

When you think about it, the CV does not "know" anything about its position (groove in or groove out) If you mentally flip the CV over and rotate it 180 degrees you get exactly the same orientation of balls and grooves.

The washers under the bolts are important, because if you do not use them you actually deform the metal in the high-pressure area under the bolt head. The metal flows away from the bolt head, making the metal between the bolts bow outward slightly. That's where the grease leaked.

You should also have a set of serrated lock washers, one under each bolt.

If you want to be really cool, you can call them Schnoor washers!

Of course, safety wire is the ultimate lock washer!