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Thu Oct 23, 2008 12:59 pm

I had my alt w/ internal reg and it went out a week ago and i ordered a kit from SoCal an i got it today and the directions are somewhat unclear was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction on how to configure the wiring. The new one has the B+ and D+ connections on the top the old one had the 3 prong harness and the connect for the starter. Any help appreciated.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:50 pm

your 74 model year car, has the 'one year only' 1974 alternator, with external regulator

-good thing is the pedestal/fuel pump, fan and back plate will fit
-you need to remove the regulator under the seat..

basically doing the dynamo to alternator wireing swapsies
although what you have 'looks' like an internal regulator alternator
-it isn't

and i betcha, the problem was the regulator, and I betcha, it was due to the 'wrong' regulator being fitted somewhere along the lines, as your alternator puts out 50 ampres, whilst a dynamo is less,

-/\-

Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:54 pm

no i have a '73. But what do i do w/ the reg wires under the seat? And what goes where? I am guessing the starter wire goes to the B+ and do i just take the three wires from the current harness and put them all on one clip? and attach it the D+? and what needs to be done under the seat?

Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:39 pm

If they sent you an alt needing an external regulator, send it back and exchange it for the internally one. The external ones are a real PITA compared to the factory externally regulated ones. Plus your wiring is already setup for the internal one.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:26 pm

no i currently have one w/ an external reg and i odrered a kit that has an internal one. so i need to know what needs to be changed.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:32 pm

So the alternator that died had the external regulator, under the seat? And the new one is internal?

This should do for ya....
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/gen_alt.htm

Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:37 pm

that is correct. SO what do i need to do to finish this swap?

OOPS thaanks i missed the link.
:? :roll:

Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:50 pm

i think that the regs on gens are different that thoseon the alts, the wiring diag. that was in that link had a different setup that mine mine just has a single harness with 4-6 wires.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:46 pm

pantswagen wrote: your 74 model year car, has the 'one year only' 1974 alternator, with external regulator
Point of clarification, late '73s and early '74s had an alternator with external regulator. :wink:

Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:05 pm

maybe this will help.

diagram for internal regulator.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:09 pm

i think that may just be what i am looking for!! SO the red wire on the harness under the seat is the one for the light in the speedo? And it runs to the 3 prong harness so all i have to do is remove the red wire from the 3 prong and hook up the + from the starter and i am good? Correct?

Thanks so much that is Awesome!!!

Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:20 pm

B+ is the same on both alternators. you still have to get power to the fuse box with the old B+. going to the starter creates a more direct route to the battery for charging.

Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:32 pm

ok so i only need the red wire from the 3 prong that was on the old alt. to go to the D+,and can i un-hook the reg under the seat i would figure that the red wire would run inline.?!?! from the reg to the 3 prong. Right?

Fri Oct 24, 2008 3:42 am

i understand you using the smaller red wire on the D+,instead of running a new wire. as long as the wire coming from the speedo/alt light connects to the smaller red wire.

Fri Oct 24, 2008 3:51 am

Read this>

http://www.vw-resource.com/vw-resource.com_non_ssl/alternator_wiring.html#convert

jim

Fri Oct 24, 2008 4:09 pm

did you first check the condition of the brushes in the 'alternator' fitted to your -1973, 74 model year car, in order to ascertain whether the brushes were worn down so as to not cut the flux?
-as if so, you are wasting your money, as you can simply - [nothings simple] remove the brush box in situ and affix a new set, -if you can get them, furthermore, if you can't, you can 'just' solder in new bits of pig iron
-

will go from
+\/+

to

*\/*

:shock:

before you remove the old one, as I favor you havn't done it yet, beacause you havn't yet asked the question on how to raise the fan housing to get the old one out, take note, if you arc a positive wire on the alternators body, you will render it useless, so before you start, undo the battery.

oh and also, when you come to try and remove the fan off the old alternator, take note, its the same size socket = 36mm as the rear hub nut, now - there is no way in precisely one million years that you will get this nut undone with your basic tool set, you will need to go to the tire fitting person, with your 36mm socket in hand, and ask him nicely to undo it with his 'impact' air gun, or rattle gun, or windy gun, or whatever you call it over there!!
-do not even attempt to do it your self, as you will definately bend the fans vanes, once you do this in the slightest, its foobarred - forever
-ps, when you do smash your fan up, and bend all the vanes wedging a socket bar down them, thinking you will undo it, and seek a replacement, do not under any circumstance get a non dog house fan, as these are smaller in depth, and won't work.

plus you also on installing the new one may have to shim it, if it goes on as the old one - all well and good, but if it brings the fan back, then you will need to add shims, as it will rub the fan housing, and squeal like a bad turbo

Fri Oct 24, 2008 7:02 pm

Well i do have the engine out and took it to school yesterday and used the impact gun to the my gland nut off because i am doing a rear seal and clutch whilei have it out. As for the fan nut i just used a screwdriver and the 36mm socket and it came right off i have everything apart but now i am wondering, w/ my new kit it came w/ new fan tins the ones between the alt and fan and was wondering what way the side closest to the fan points meaning the one slot that looks as though it would allow some airflow to help in cooling the alt? Also while i have the engine out i was consideing cleaning and painting all of the tins intake manis and head risere. As i am also doing new intake boots i got new mani gaskets and heat riser gaskets as well as the one that goes between the alt stand and case. What is a good way to clean the tins and should i use engine enamel 500° paint or the 1300° paint? or will andy rattle can work? Thanks again for all the help guys.