TheSamba.com :: View topic - DIY do you think I can make my own pop out windows for bug?

Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:21 am

I just bought a 71 super beetle for $500. There were a set of heads in the back seat included. There was also an extra fuel tank, looked new but orange green gunk poured out of it. I wonder what I could get for the heads, the metal value should be at least $30 bucks. HEHE, this is a california car so very minimal rust.
It is mostly complete, the engine turns fairly easily but there is no straight manifold tube, and the carb is in a box. Anyways when payday comes I will get all the parts to try to start it.
I was looking at the price for new pop out windows, around $400. I could scroung around and maybe get some used ones for around $150. This got me thinking, I can order all the parts of a pop out window per side for less than $70 or so, maybe cheaper. So why cant I build my own using epoxy, and or figuring out how to drill holes in glass without breaking the glass? What do you think, I have searched for hours on this topic and have found nothing.

Fri Oct 24, 2008 3:05 am

I looked online for hours, can not find the latch assembly. I will go to Lowes or home depot and try to find a similair latch, I think I saw some with offsets for cabinets. The cheapest thing is to form some metal with the three holes for the screws with an upright part with a slot down the middle. Then I will just use some thick nylon rope with knots to fit in the slot. Then drill a hole in the glass at a good spot and run the nylon threw and tie it off. However how do I keep it open? I am thinking about that.
Or maybe I can find a sunroof latch?

Fri Oct 24, 2008 3:53 am

Are your initials PO?

jim

Fri Oct 24, 2008 4:00 am

congrats on your purchase.

The heads on the engine may be bad, so don't sell them until you get your engine running. I wouldn't if it were me.

Tons of people have been trying to figure out how to make an affordable 'aftermarket' set of popouts for some time. Me included. Some of the problems with making your own set from scratch:
* The rear popout glass is smaller than the non-popout glass. So you would need to be able to trim it down to fit inside the frames.
* it is tempered glass, so you will need to figure out a way of drilling and cutting that does not cause the glass to seek a small cubical size (breaks).
* If no frmae is used, how do you seal the joints? regular seals will not work without a frame to attach to. I figured that a ford trunk type seal would work in place of the windlace. But that would not fit in the hinge area of the assembly.
* what will you use for a front hinge? The rear is easy, just figure out a way to epoxy it to the glass or burn/bore a hole in the glass.

If you are going to go through that much trouble, just buy a pair. Keep looking. Go to VW shows/swap meets. You can probably find a pair for $50 bucks or so. I got mine for free off an old baja bug left to nature. They need to have the seals replaced. That alone is costing $40 bucks, if you included the windlace that goes around the opening holding the headliner in.

With that in mind, mine 'restored' popouts will end up costing me about $40 plus several hours in labor.

Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:53 am

Search around some more, check e-bay or a local wrecking yard. Often stuff on the Samba sells for a premium. A reasonable set of lat model pop-outs shouldn't cost more than $50, even less if they are pitted. Pick up the new outer seals, screws and the pinch welt and you'll be way under $100 for the whole thing. Trying to make them yourself will consist of you spending hours putting it all together and it'll still look like crap.

-jeffrey

Fri Oct 24, 2008 10:39 am

Are they single port or dual port heads?

Fri Oct 24, 2008 12:12 pm

If you scrap those heads,, you won't even get 4 bucks for them.. there dirty alum which is 20 cents a pound,,

50 bucks for pop outs would be top $$$ and only then if every thing was there ,, inculding that little screw plate that goes in the body.. and good glass that not all pitted..

Don't get all excited and dump a bunch of money into those,,, in time you'll find some free or very cheap

Fri Oct 24, 2008 12:49 pm

Are they worth the trouble ventilation wise or more for looks?

jim

Fri Oct 24, 2008 12:57 pm

now days there for looks..... you do get better ventilation... But there a PATA to get back there and open and close,,

most will leak,,, they do make the inside more noise..but there one of the few options VW ever had..

Fri Oct 24, 2008 3:17 pm

Ahh thank you for the input, I finally figured out that I would use a metal base I fabricated for the three holes on the body and then two wood pieces with an elbow and a semi-tight nut and bolt to the window, to make it stay open, because of the resistence at the wood elbow because of the tight nut and bolt, then I would figure out some way of glueing or connecting the wood the the window. But that said, it seems easier to just get oem windows somewhere.

Does anyone know where a good vw junkyard is in the SF bay area CA, as close to Santa Rosa?

If I steamed cleaned the heads why wouldnt they give me a good price for the aluminum heads at the metal recycler?

Fri Oct 24, 2008 7:20 pm

I saw a set of late model pop outs go for $10 at the last show. Latches, hinges and all. Unless you have a pre 65, you are wasteing your time trying to cobble together something to work.

Go to your closest Pull Your Own Parts type of junk yard and you can probably get a good set for about $20 or $30 bucks. They will fit, look nice and won't leak or rattle.

Or, you could spend a few days or weeks messing with old junk and break a few windows trying to drill holes in them, then have leaky rattelly windows that look like ass...... but maybe thats what you like.

Fri Oct 24, 2008 7:52 pm

Odd things about pop out and people that have extras,, this morning on C/L a guy has pop outs for 150,, He say he has 40 years with Vw's ,,, then say his pop out will fit from 1960 to 1971 cars ... go figure that one .. i guess they will as long as you never want to close them ,,,

so why won't they fit a 72 ?? LOL

Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:29 pm

Where can I get info on vw swap meets, $10 sounds very good for a set. However I found a $2 latch articulated, I will just have to carefully bend it to make it work. I just purchased a dremel type tool with some diamond bits. Till I find those $10-$40 dollar oem windows, I think I'll try it. I will order oem rubber and hinges. Those peices are affordable. It just makes me feel good to do it myself and to think I saved $350 or so. I can always undo it. I might just try some cheap rubber hose split to line the window. I know it may look like #hit. I am fixing this car to be a reasonable stock good looker second emergency car.

Fri Oct 24, 2008 9:48 pm

I picked up a pair of pop outs at a local salvage yard, all the pieces needed since I pulled it myself, for $40.00.

Have patience, look around and you'll find it without rigging something that will end up disappointing you.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 12:21 am

Pick up a used set, that tempered glass is just going to explode when you start drilling it.

I would focus on getting it running before worrying about pop out windows

Sat Oct 25, 2008 3:47 am

I mean if gm products can have those rearview mirrors epoxied to the front winshield, with that semi heavy load on them, I do not see why I cant epoxy the parts to the window, also there is more area to epoxy in my setup, which hopefully will allow the epoxy to bind better. By the way I just fixed my roommate's oldsmobile rearview mirror with epoxy, still up after a week. Nothing to lose, just time. Because I would just set aside the old windows anyway if I found that good deal on pop outs.

The articulated latch piece I have seems to be brass gold in color, should I sand the finish down at the gluing mating areas? In order to get a better grip. It is humongous, the latch that is. It might put the window out 8-10 inches i'm thinking.

I should take some pictures, and you all can laugh your a** off, at how silly it looks or how cheap I am.

And if you dislike my style of writing, blame Ms. Q***t from 7th grade, I really disliked that toad, and learned nothing. I could not diagram a sentence for the life of me. I still am fuzzy about indirect objects.

However can anyone guide me to a good vw junkyard within 50 miles of Santa Rosa CA?

Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:03 am

It is a 1971 super beetle, I bought it for $350, although it cost $150 to have it towed from 70 miles away, if you are in the bay area CA, I can give you his number. It had an extra set of heads in the backseat and an extra newish looking fuel tank in the trunk. It has the aluminum intake manifolds on each side. The straight pipe is missing that has those two legs that go to the exhaust. I bought at picknpull that piece. The carb is in a box. There is no battery and the battery cables are now in the front trunk, a relocation job it looks like. The engine turns over fairly easily when i pull on the alternator generator belt while watching the bottom plate to make sure it is turning and the belt is not slipping.

I geuss I should pull the motor and do the clutch too. I have a friend that has done this 30 times or so. Then put my new intake manifold on. Should I get a new carb or try the old one. Or should I rebuild the old one? Take out the spark plugs and add some oil to the cylinders, or some other fluid? It does seem to turn nice and tight though.

What parts should I get in general terms while I do this?

I have two manuals a Haynes and the Muir book. Coming in the mail are the bug me videos. Between them and my expert everything should go well hopefully. I would be in heaven if this $500 bug runs good.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 1:17 pm

Your priorities are wrong.

GET THE CAR RUNNING FIRST.

By running I mean it starts, drives and stops correctly and safely and the brake lights work.

I spent months working on the body of a VW I bought to put my motor in and then when I finally put the motor in and took it for a drive the frame ends broke.

While it was relaxing shaving the lights and such, it was pointless.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 1:41 pm

It is a california car, very little rust. And it bounced up and down on the freeway going 65mph sometimes, for over 70 miles on the back of the trailer as I watched it from my volvo. The mover had a 454 chevy truck with a trailer that the car was winched too and strapped as well. So your car probably would have collasped on that journey. I am disabled, I have terrible back pain when I sit or lift to much, I have a military pension, not very much only 931$, but i get by and save. My point is I can do some light work for a couple of hours before my back starts throbbing, I was thrown 30 feet from a 62 bug, that rolled down a hill, kind of like superman with a bad ending. Three broken vertebrae, thank god they fused back.
My point is that I have all the time in the world to tinker, I cant get a regular 20-40 hour job, I would start having mental problems from the pain. Thank God for the VA. It does actually work sometimes if you jump through their hoops. I have nothing better to do. I mean if you had a 40-50 hour job plus a long commute then I can see your point. You would be exhausted doing all that nonessential stuff. Also I bought the car and was prepared to buy a new long block, good used motor and or a new transmission. I was prepared for 500-1500 in engine and tranny work. However I appreciate your input. I may put off some interior and exterior stuff. Thanks