TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:22 pm

my daily was smashed the other day by some guy not paying attention and the insurance called and told me that they totaled it. so i don't know what im getting but i need to start working on my baja to get it in a daily condition.

and for starters im going to need to rebuild the engine, i thought i could get a way with just re-ringing it but as i got a little bit farther into the engine i noticed some pretty bad sludge built up on the oil strainer cover and it was pretty nasty. and the end play was pretty bad. but i got this thing fired and it turns out the heads were what was smoking. and i think its devealoping a knock.

so basically serves me right trying to take the easy way out.

so depending on what i get from the insurance (which will probably be dick) i need to get this engine done if im going to be driving this car.

basically i want to keep it a single port if i can for gas mileage and reliability and im not looking to make any serious power out of this thing. just a bit more pep because there are a lot of hills where i am and im running 30" tires with a stock transmission.

so basically i was going to grab one of these kits

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C15-1600

get a high capacity oil sump and have the case full flowed correctly to run an oil filter. and a set of stock rebuilt heads.

so my questions are

1. does anyone have any experience with that scat kit? and are there any problems with it?

2. are there any other recommendations on engine parts i should buy to make sure i get the best life out of this engine?

3. what oil pump would be best for the set up.

4. i have a new stock 30-31 carb that works great but is probably the weakest link air flow wise. any recommendations on either running a 34 or modding the 30-31?

5. i have a crappy 009 on the engine. would it be worth it to seek out a better dizzy?

thanks in advance for any advice.

-luke

Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:37 pm

I like a 34 better on a single port with a mild cam.

Oil pump depends on cam, and case hole sizes.

Work on the case first, if it has bad endplay then the thrust surface probably needs cut when you get it full flowed

Never could afford a scat kit, stock machined stuff has worked fine for me for a daily driver.

Fast, cheap, or right, you can only pick two.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 9:55 pm

50 views and one answer?

any more thoughts on the cam and carb combo?

Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:30 pm

50 views is not many. Engle 100 cam, Web 86, GB 400 thrust washers. either VW carb will work well I built several of them. Stock distributor and small header and muffler. Full flow oil pump and oil filter. For a little more grunt consider going 1776 and a 34 pict carb. Get the engine balanced. There will be no need for any other performance parts other than correct length push rods. You can get away with the stock pushrods but it is better to set the rocker arm geometry.

Sat Oct 25, 2008 11:23 pm

The Scat Kit does not seem like a good combination for your stated goal… C35 Cam will wear out your lifter bores, and it is not worth the money to buy new rods for 69x85.5 good rebuilt VW will work fine for a 1600cc… it is never worth buying a cast crank under any circumstance, VW used Forged because it is needed to preserve case = reliability…

The engine below with out FI, perfect for big tiers and hill country :0)

CB Project Mileage Motor
http://www.cbperformance.com/articles.asp

1745cc with stock 85.5mm pistons and a stroker 76mm
advance distributor, and trick merged 1-3/8-inch header system. On the dyno at Jack Sacchette's JayCee Enterprises the engine stunned even us, producing a maximum of 92.5 horsepower at 5,000 rpm, and 120.8 ft.-lbs. of torque at 2,500 rpm! While our goal was mileage, we knew it would also be a blast to drive.

Sun Oct 26, 2008 12:09 am

perrib wrote: 50 views is not many. Engle 100 cam, Web 86, GB 400 thrust washers. either VW carb will work well I built several of them. Stock distributor and small header and muffler. Full flow oil pump and oil filter. For a little more grunt consider going 1776 and a 34 pict carb. Get the engine balanced. There will be no need for any other performance parts other than correct length push rods. You can get away with the stock pushrods but it is better to set the rocker arm geometry.

i would rather stay away from a lot of case machining, at that point might as well get a new one. but and engle 100 eh? why over the 110?

depending on what the crank looks like when i crack the case should i just reuse it? or spurge on an aftermarket one? same goes for the rods right?

im also not planning on stroking this or building an entire engine, if i was planning on doing that i would just go all out and not limit my self to an old case or a 1600.

Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:53 am

Do you have a VW-capable machine shop close by?
Daily driver on a budget?
Then:
Case: Have it checked and machined accordingly.
Crank: Stocker machined as necessary.
Pistons/cylinders: Stock 85.5's. Keep compression in check-measure that deck height and adjust accordingly. You don't want to have to run premium all the time.
Rods: Stock, rebuilt.
Cam: CB Cheater-I had fantastic results with it in my '66 Beetle. It is slightly milder than an Engle 100. Straight OEM aluminum pushrods will work fine. Even 1.25 rockers would be a good upgrade.
Heads: Stock rebuilt (or new if need be) with single hi-revs if you're going to use any aftermarket cam.
Flywheel: Stock remachined.
Cooler: Doghouse if it isn't already.
Exhaust: simple extractor with a single quiet pack.
Distributor: SVDA (vacuum advance). Ditch that 009 if you're going to use a 30/31 or a 34. You WILL get better MPG, throttle response and clean, long-lasting plugs with the SVDA.

Just my 2 cents but I hate to see a person pour money into something unnecessarily.
This motor should provide mucho torque, a 5000 RPM redline and should last for a LONG time if you keep valves adjusted and oil changed.

Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:10 am

MO Turbo Manx wrote: Do you have a VW-capable machine shop close by?
Daily driver on a budget?
Then:
Case: Have it checked and machined accordingly.
Crank: Stocker machined as necessary.
Pistons/cylinders: Stock 85.5's. Keep compression in check-measure that deck height and adjust accordingly. You don't want to have to run premium all the time.
Rods: Stock, rebuilt.
Cam: CB Cheater-I had fantastic results with it in my '66 Beetle. It is slightly milder than an Engle 100. Straight OEM aluminum pushrods will work fine. Even 1.25 rockers would be a good upgrade.
Heads: Stock rebuilt (or new if need be) with single hi-revs if you're going to use any aftermarket cam.
Flywheel: Stock remachined.
Cooler: Doghouse if it isn't already.
Exhaust: simple extractor with a single quiet pack.
Distributor: SVDA (vacuum advance). Ditch that 009 if you're going to use a 30/31 or a 34. You WILL get better MPG, throttle response and clean, long-lasting plugs with the SVDA.

Just my 2 cents but I hate to see a person pour money into something unnecessarily.
This motor should provide mucho torque, a 5000 RPM redline and should last for a LONG time if you keep valves adjusted and oil changed.

Ovals VW is the closest thing to me. i was going to use him for most of the build. i need to call them Monday to get some info on what machine work they can do with cases and how much.

which high rev springs would you suggest? and can i just put them in the stock head without anything else like better retaining clips or anything?

also i have a bobcat exhaust with a spark arrestor at the end, and its 1 1/2.

Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:25 am

also, i just wanted to add this in

thoughts on a lightened flywheel with this combo?

Sun Oct 26, 2008 12:07 pm

I've always been told lightened flywheels are a big no-no with a non-counterweighted stock crank.
You want that heavy flywheel to give your reliable daily-driver low-budget engine a little extra "heave" get those huge 30" tires rolling and keep them rolling.

Single hi-rev springs are fine, no specific brand.
Stock retainers and locks work just fine with them.

A bobcat is fine but stingers, even with a spark arrestor, are just plain obnoxious.
If you can find a single quiet pack that'll fit that header, get it.
You're not going to lose any power.
1.5" tubing is probably too big for a wee, low RPM motor but it'll work.

Sun Oct 26, 2008 12:17 pm

MO Turbo Max covered it. With the CB Cheater or 100 cam keep the heavier flywheel. The 100 cam is going to be better for single port heads and a stock carb Get the springs from the same place you buy the parts. If you go with stronger single spring get better retainers. I used the Weber 76 cam which was very similar to the Engle 100 cam in engines I sold as stock. It made a noticable difference and passed emmisions. It is a great choice for more torque where you need it and low cost. You are building a 1600 to turn 1600 tires you need all bottom end torque.

Sun Oct 26, 2008 12:47 pm

ok heres what im aiming for so far

crank
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1185

valve springs
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=99

cheater cam
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1244

rockers
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-21-2162

pistons and barrels
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-311-198-069-F

cam and main bearings
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-111-198-541

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-111-198-461

dizzy
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=IGD0001&cartid=1025200870285429

reversion plate
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=502158

Teflon wrist pin retainers
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-5930

glad nut
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-5128-42

oil sump
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=

Heads- stock rebuilt from local guy.

Case
what ever needs to be done, sand seal, and full flowed.

anything im missing our should revise?

Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:00 am

thoughts on the combo?

Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:57 pm

runslikeapenguin wrote:
crank
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1185

rockers
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-21-2162

pistons and barrels
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-311-198-069-F

oil sump
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...ange_high=

You don't NEED the above items.
Unless you have a ton of money to spend, that is.
If that's the case, take all the above upgrades and go 1776 and dual ICT's or Kadrons and......

BUT.....if you're really on a budget and want a solid driver, don't sell the stock parts short.
They're stout for everyday use!
Go with stock replacements. I'm serious.

Counterweighted crank:
Really is unnecessary for everyday use.
Rockers:
Stock rocker assemblies are fantastic. Add swivel feet to them and you're good.
Pistons/Cylinders:
Stock-replacement Mahles are just fine-you know the ones...cast pistons, cast rings, nothing spectacular. I have put 20 PSI boost onto my stock Mahle pistons/rings/barrels.
Sump:
That's up to you but it's not 100% necessary for a daily beater.

I'm not a tightwad by any means, I just hate to see people spend outlandish amounts of money when they just don't have to.

Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:58 pm

Quote: You don't NEED the above items.
Unless you have a ton of money to spend, that is.

Amen to the above

Stock works well

If I were to buy a kit, I would buy a engine kit from

http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/

You will probably get a crank that's 30 under, but that's ok.

Just add a good case, and heads. You might want to get a hardware kit unless all yours is good.

It's your engine though.

Mon Oct 27, 2008 6:57 pm

ditch the teflon wrist pin retainers as well...

if you decide on the reversion plate let us know what you think.

Tom

Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:27 pm

alright then, thanks for the advice, i may end up downgrading on the above items if needed. thanks