TheSamba.com :: View topic - Can i install front trailing arms with hooks stops in place?

Sat Feb 04, 2012 2:58 pm

So i'm working on my new front end, i 've braced it up and installed adjusters. with the center grub screw loose on the adjusters i can install my arms and the spindles and run it through the motions and i can determine the location of my stops easily. I would like to weld them but i just realized that with the hook stop on the beam and the lower arm(Upper wont be a problem because the stop wont be in the way ) i wont be able to get the lower arm on because the starting location(unsprung) puts the arm at close to vertical and the stop on the arm wont pass the stop on the beam.

If i put the stops on so that they are just wide enough to contact i could get the arms started onto the torsion springs then try to compress the arm while i drive the arms home . There seems to only be about an inch or less of space in the arms that holds the springs so it seems doable but thinking i would have to have at least 1/2 " of springs in the arm before i compressed it and i'm not sure if it would be important to have the grub screw set before i put some preload on the springs.

Or do most people install the arms and use a jack or something to compress the suspension and then weld the stop on the arm at final install and hope they dont have to be removed and installed again (or cut off and start over)?

Any tricks i'm missing?

also just discovered that at least one of my needle bearings is dusted. gonna go search but if you know of a good thread let me know

Sat Feb 04, 2012 7:25 pm

Not sure if I'm following you but, couldn't you put the bottom arm on and preload it out of the way while you put the top one on? :-k

Sat Feb 04, 2012 8:03 pm

I made a tool from a piece of 1/2" all thread with a piece of tube welded on the end that goes on the shock mount, to preload the arm so I could drive the arm on with the hooks welded on...

I also used it to hold the arm in place while I tack welded the hook on.

Casey

Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:01 am

You have to take your torsion bars out install the arms and spindle with your shock then limit the arms with your stops accordinngly. All those things need to be in consideration when your limiting the front end......

Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:03 am

earthquake wrote: I made a tool from a piece of 1/2" all thread with a piece of tube welded on the end that goes on the shock mount, to preload the arm so I could drive the arm on with the hooks welded on...

I also used it to hold the arm in place while I tack welded the hook on.

Casey

so you got the arm at least part way on the end of the torsion springs, preloaded and drove it home and then put the grub screw in?

Quote: Not sure if I'm following you but, couldn't you put the bottom arm on and preload it out of the way while you put the top one on?

the arms arent in each others way. basically in the unloaded position when installing the arm the hook wont clear the stop on the beam .. hard to explain but if you imagine the operating position of the arms they are facing rear ward (horizontal) and the hook and stop are positioned to stop the arm from going to far down (vertical direction) and breaking a ball joint.... but in the unloaded position (vertical) the arm is at a point where the hook and rod conflict. so i have to either put the stop on after install or preload the arm/torsions as it is being installed .. this is what i am going to try to do like casey did

Sun Feb 05, 2012 12:21 pm

drill 1/2" hole in middle of hooks
obtain 4: 1/2" diameter X 1" long bolts
weld bolts to hooks
use 3/4" or 19 MM socket and breaker bar to adjust position of lower trailing arm while installing said arm
insert lower ball joint in lower trailing arm, install nut
use 3/4" or 19 MM socket and breaker bar to adjust position of upper trailing arm while installing camber doodad, then insert upper ball joint

et voila - no muss no fuss no cuss

alternative: Use Grade 8 bolt for rod. remove, install, replace. this would require the use of stiffening plates on the beam, which is a sensible thing to do.

Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:36 pm

blitzschnell racing wrote: You have to take your torsion bars out install the arms and spindle with your shock then limit the arms with your stops accordinngly. All those things need to be in consideration when your limiting the front end...... right now i have the torsion springs in but they are loose in the middle at the adjuster so they turn easily, i have my spindle on tight but not completely torqued down on the ball joints because i want to pull it apart easily. So i move the spindle as far up till the ball joints stop it and then backed off a bit and put the top hook. now i am going the other way to the bottom and will do the same thing.

i am setting my travel for the ball joints and intended to get appropriate length shock if my stock kybs aren't long enough.

heres the front compressed at about 11.5 " shock length

heres max at about 18"

for about 6.5 " max travel

I compressed to top and let off a bit 1/4 - 1/2" and set the top stop .

when i do the final install with the torsions attached in the center, the spindle will be off and the arm and ball joint will be facing down and the stop on the arm is free to slide inward and there is no pressure on the arm or torsions , then i am able to preload them when i install the spindles. the lower one has the stop in the way so it wont slide inward without loading the springs. I think i just have to make my outward length on my stop to the minimum so that i can get the arms/springs started at least part way into the grub area without preload then preload a bit a and drive em in