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Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:43 pm

When I hook 12 volts directly to the fuel pump it clicks. When I hook it up to the Heater- nothing. The fuse and relay are good. Looking at the wiring diagram I see that there is a set of points (labeled O2) that is supposed to be in the Combustion air blower. I found the set of points (labeled O1) for the ignition coil located in the air blower but not the set for the Fuel (metering Pump) Spark plug,glow plug works fine. If I am reading the diagram correctly, the white wire from the Combustion air blower is for the iginition coil points and the Green is for the fuel pump points.

Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:58 am

The heat regulator ,inside the brass box, is not making contact. Jumper the blue wires on the side of it to bypass the safety mechanism. and see if it clicks then. If it does, then you need to finagle with the parts inside.
DONT leave it like this

Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:11 am

another thing to check is the large white plastic plug behind the heater, these plugs corrode.. clean these contacts Green and brown/white are for the pump

Tue Oct 28, 2008 11:05 am

ELSEWHERE wrote: Looking at the wiring diagram I see that there is a set of points (labeled O2) that is supposed to be in the Combustion air blower. I found the set of points (labeled O1) for the ignition coil located in the air blower but not the set for the Fuel (metering Pump) Spark plug,glow plug works fine. If I am reading the diagram correctly, the white wire from the Combustion air blower is for the iginition coil points and the Green is for the fuel pump points.

The points for the fuel metering pump are at the opposite end of the blower motor from the points for the ignition coil.

Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:03 pm

Bypassed the regulater, still did not work.Hooked up a voltmeter to the pump and got a reading of 10 volts. I took the heater apart hooked an Ohmmeter to the green and brown wire. After rotating the motor the 30 plus turns, I get a reading of 30,000 Ohms-I think it should be closer to zero. Rotating the motor past this point, the reading is infinity(which I expect it to be). I saw that there is a clip that holds the motor to the back of the (support?) frame. I have to take the metal fan off that is on the other end .It is held on with a 2mm set screw. I am soaking it right now. I stripped out the cheap 2mm hex head tool that I had.

Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:40 am

The points set screw should be filled with a hard putty so people won't mess with them. The points should be .018. You set them simular to the distributor points, put the points arm on a cam high lobe point and then insert your feeler guage at .018 and then turn the set screw after you get the putty out of the screw head. These points do go bad and thne you have to hunt on samba or contact someone like me who has sets of good points and sell new South Wind heater parts.

Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:39 am

kme_eone wrote: The points set screw should be filled with a hard putty so people won't mess with them. The points should be .018. You set them simular to the distributor points, put the points arm on a cam high lobe point and then insert your feeler guage at .018 and then turn the set screw after you get the putty out of the screw head. These points do go bad and thne you have to hunt on samba or contact someone like me who has sets of good points and sell new South Wind heater parts.

Chris Blankenship
South wind parts and repair
Anchorage, AK
kme_eones@yahoo.com

Wouldn't a Thing heater be a Eberspacher?

Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:01 am

so the heater doesnt start at all?

Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:22 pm

When I purchased my Thing, the heater did not do anything at all. The first thing wrong with it was the Brown ground wire for the heater that has an eyelet on the end was not connected. I am not sure exactly where it is supposed to be connected to the body but when I ground it , blower motor kicked on. Next , the terminal connecter on the white wire from the blower was loose and broke off. When I replaced it, the Glow/spark plug stated working. The fuel pump I know is good since when I hook it up to the battery, it clicks. Found the points to the fuel pump and was getting a high resistance reading. Putting a file to the points, I now get a reading of less than 1 ohm, Alot better than the 30,000 ohm reading I was getting before. Now to put it all back together.

Fri Oct 31, 2008 1:20 am

73 THINGS had the South Winds or Espar. South Winds were made since the early 50's and we also made for other VWs.
There is a wire with a round conector and that should go onto the ground for the combustion fan.

Fri Oct 31, 2008 1:22 am

Your fuel pump does not click, your points on the fuel pump click. The combustion fan motor powers the fuel pump, when the combustion fan turns so should the fuel pump.

Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:29 pm

help

heater (espach bn4) dont work,pump dont click,fan dont run.

12 volts to the thingy next to the temp fuse but not out of it.

could the thingy be bad?

thanks

Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:21 pm

kme_eone wrote: 73 THINGS had the South Winds or Espar. South Winds were made since the early 50's and we also made for other VWs.
There is a wire with a round conector and that should go onto the ground for the combustion fan.

Do you have any literature showing the SW heater? I've never seen one.

Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:08 pm

I have manuals that show South Wind Heaters. I have on order a manual for the THING.
The heater mount simular to the Eberspachers. The Eberspachers take a bit to work on if you have to get working parts since a lot fo people leave these heaters dormant as well as the South Winds I work on.

So does this member have an Eberspacher or South Wind Auxilary gas heater?

Sat Dec 13, 2008 9:50 pm

I have the BN 4 EBERSPACHER heater. It works now, but I need a overheating switch (with fuse holder). The bimatallic spring that causes the fuse to blow is missing.

Wed Dec 17, 2008 12:39 am

Try www.germansupply.com