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Tue Nov 04, 2008 5:24 pm

ALright so I changed my front calipers today. SO i needed to bleed the brakes. And when I was bedding them I noticed the master cylinder started leaking from a rubber piece.How do I fix it?

This is what I see.

Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:46 am

That is the supply line form the reservior. If it leaks because you jostled the connection, you MIGHT be able to reseat it tightly. It is held by the rubber stopper, which gets hard and doens't liek to me moved.

If that doesn't fix it, you need to replace them. Since you have to remove it to get at it easily, you might as well pull it and rebuild it (send to Jim Adney in WI), since the internal rubber may be as old and hard as the external.

How do your soft lines look?

Mon Nov 10, 2008 3:07 pm

So I hate to ask the typical NoOb Question, but here it goes:

What is the big difference between a Type 1 M/C and a Type 3? Couldn't he just put in a new Dual Circuit Type 1 M/C? If not please explain.

Kinda want to know for my own edification also.

Mon Nov 10, 2008 3:17 pm

Bolts for a T-1 master cylinder come through from inside the car. T-3 master cylinders are bolted on from the outside.
Bore size may be different.
The inlet fittings are different between T-1 and T-3.
Just have Jim Adney rebuild yours, or buy a new one. jadney@vwtype3.org
Same with the calipers. The after market ones are not even the same bore as the originals.

Mon Nov 10, 2008 3:18 pm

bigwhit wrote: So I hate to ask the typical NoOb Question, but here it goes:

What is the big difference between a Type 1 M/C and a Type 3? Couldn't he just put in a new Dual Circuit Type 1 M/C? If not please explain.

Kinda want to know for my own edification also.

Now not to be a jerk, but you can't use a type 1 in a type 3 for the same reason you can't use a m/c from a type 2. They are different parts, and you need the correct one.

Mon Nov 10, 2008 11:40 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: Bolts for a T-1 master cylinder come through from inside the car. T-3 master cylinders are bolted on from the outside.
Bore size may be different.
The inlet fittings are different between T-1 and T-3.
Just have Jim Adney rebuild yours, or buy a new one. jadney@vwtype3.org
Same with the calipers. The after market ones are not even the same bore as the originals.

problem is that its kind of hard to find these parts, and whn you find it its really expensive.

Mon Nov 10, 2008 11:49 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: Bolts for a T-1 master cylinder come through from inside the car. T-3 master cylinders are bolted on from the outside.
Bore size may be different.
The inlet fittings are different between T-1 and T-3.
Just have Jim Adney rebuild yours, or buy a new one. jadney@vwtype3.org
Same with the calipers. The after market ones are not even the same bore as the originals.

Thank you for the polite explanation.

Sat Nov 15, 2008 8:12 am

vincentrc wrote: Russ Wolfe wrote: Bolts for a T-1 master cylinder come through from inside the car. T-3 master cylinders are bolted on from the outside.
Bore size may be different.
The inlet fittings are different between T-1 and T-3.
Just have Jim Adney rebuild yours, or buy a new one. jadney@vwtype3.org
Same with the calipers. The after market ones are not even the same bore as the originals.

problem is that its kind of hard to find these parts, and whn you find it its really expensive.

I bought one a couple weeks ago for my fasty at the local auto parts store for 19.99 with a lifetime warranty.... I also bought one like 8 years ago for my squareback for 19.99... so i'm thinking with inflation and all it's a pretty good deal... now the rebuild kit was $30... i think that's pretty expensive when it's $10 less to have someone do all the work for you!

Sat Nov 15, 2008 10:49 am

73sports wrote: bigwhit wrote: So I hate to ask the typical NoOb Question, but here it goes:

What is the big difference between a Type 1 M/C and a Type 3? Couldn't he just put in a new Dual Circuit Type 1 M/C? If not please explain.

Kinda want to know for my own edification also.

Now not to be a jerk, but you can't use a type 1 in a type 3 for the same reason you can't use a m/c from a type 2. They are different parts, and you need the correct one.

You can use a type 1. The pushrod will not be long enough and you will need to ream the threads out of the collar. Also the rear line hooks up on opposite side and the forward resevoir inlet is not stepped down to clear tie rod joint. But all that can be taken care of. Seems easier to just have the right one rebuilt though. Also may have a different cylinder bore.

Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:06 pm

And since bugs (USA mdels) didn't come with discs, you have a residual pressure issue to resolve, too.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:53 am

I have a manx type buggy with a type 3 pan. my master went out and i tryed to get one from BAP, they didnt have any. i went to another place and there cost was 310 dollars for a new master. I bought a type 1 and reemed out the hole and installed it. i bent the lines and made everything work but i have the residual issue you are talking about. how do i fix that?

Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:02 am

Can you post a photo of your master? On some bug MCs the residual pressure valves were external to the MC, and you can remove it/them and make up new fititngs.

Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:57 am

there isnt anything removable on it. What years had the removable ones?

Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:59 am

Duplicate thread, please continue discussion there:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=329404