TheSamba.com :: View topic - High Pressure Oil Filter Recommendation Needed

Wed Nov 12, 2008 10:37 am

I've just started driving my '64 Sundial camper with a new engine, a stock single port 1600, modified only with a counterweighted crankshaft, a doghouse oil cooler, and a full-flow remote oil filter. I bought a couple of EMPI HP 1 High Pressure oil filters from California Import Parts (at $12.95 each) to start things off, but would like to find something cheaper and/or available locally.

The old engine had a low pressure oil filter in-line with an 8-pass oil cooler mounted in front of the fan housing and I ran a Fram P8HA filter or equivalent. My local auto parts man says that I can run the same filter in the new high pressure application, but I am convinced otherwise.

What alternative high pressure oil filters are there that would fit on a Fram P8HA filter mount, what are their prices, and from what sources could they be obtained? Thanks!

Wed Nov 12, 2008 10:47 am

I pumped a couple of quarts of oil onto the ground with those filters (cold morning start up with cold oil). I switch to a System 1 reuseable filter, then I switched to a Shaun Geers reuseable filter, which I currently run. Well worth the $$. You can buy 10 of those $13 filters or have one Geers filter shipped to you.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 10:50 am

Jaycee has them too as well as some others who have knock offs.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:03 am

I run the K&M hp filter on my 2110.... Most auto parts stores carry them.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:41 pm

Fram HP1 is what i use on my 1776. works good and you can get them at kragens or auto zone for $8-10.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 3:50 pm

K&N 3001 I noticed a difference of 5-7 psi over a fram or napa filter when I switched. and I only did that after a friend of mine had the same results.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 4:44 pm

Why not try a Berg pressure relief pump cover? Then run whatever oil filter you want.

Also the T4 oil filters fit up just fine where an HP1 would. That way you can run Mann filters.

What gears are in your pump?

Wed Nov 12, 2008 5:55 pm

I have been running the Fram HP-1 filters for years and they work fine for me never any problems to speak of.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 6:14 pm

I'd do a search on Fram HP-1 filters they don't have a good rep in some circles. A Fram HP-1 is nothing more than a PH-8A in a thicker can. I wouldn't trust a "EMPI" HP-1.

Napa Gold is an OK filter, but I've used german T4 filters (mahle, mann) without issue for years now.

BTW I've hosed a wall 50ft away with a blown filter, only takes a few seconds :shock:

Wed Nov 12, 2008 6:56 pm

Napa Gold is made by WIX/Dana which is what we use. Whatever brand you use make sure it has internal relief valve. The spring for this can be seen through the center outlet hole.
Fram is junk and have blown two in colder weather.

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/index.html

Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:47 pm

Thanks to all who responded with experience and recommendations so promptly. The K&N HP-3001 looks like it will be the filter I try next. I see it is available at www.4filters.com for $10.36 + shipping.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:13 pm

I run a "mann" filter off of a 1.8t Jetta. They're part number 06A-115-561B, available from any VW / Audi dealership for approx $9. They have an internal check valve and are a "long life" filter. (supposedly has finer micron filtration.

I have yet to have one blow when cold, but I also don't rev the engine until the oil is warm...

Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:22 pm

ive heard that hydrolic fluid filters work well

Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:57 pm

I don't know about hydrolic flitters but I use pressed fitting 10000psi hydrolic line for my oil lines and on leaks! I hate those cheap garden hose and hose clamps set ups they always leak and blow very easaly. I got them a hydrolic hose place and they cut to size and you should have a extra set made for the break down kit. about $30 for each hose and you'll need 4 but worth the headach you save.

Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:23 am

lou verrilli wrote: I don't know about hydrolic flitters but I use pressed fitting 10000psi hydrolic line for my oil lines and on leaks! I hate those cheap garden hose and hose clamps set ups they always leak and blow very easaly. I got them a hydrolic hose place and they cut to size and you should have a extra set made for the break down kit. about $30 for each hose and you'll need 4 but worth the headach you save.

To me that's a bad idea...have you ever looked at how small the passage is on the fittings for that hose?

I use Parker Push-Lok hose and fittings without clamps, never had an issue and I trust them on my 914's $8K+ Nickies equipped engine.

Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:01 am

Seems the main issue here is the concern for cost. Good doesn't come cheap.
I would run either the K&N or a Mobile 1. They both have the improved synthetic media in them.
I think Walmart has the Mobil 1 for Ford Application (assuming that is the type bracket you have) for $9 or so. If you are running synthetic you won't need to dump it as often.
There is a page out there where the guy cut open all of the popular filters to see how they are constructed. I wouldn't run a Fram on anything.
Mike

Here ya go - http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:45 am

Runboy wrote: Seems the main issue here is the concern for cost. Good doesn't come cheap.
I would run either the K&N or a Mobile 1. They both have the improved synthetic media in them.
I think Walmart has the Mobil 1 for Ford Application (assuming that is the type bracket you have) for $9 or so. If you are running synthetic you won't need to dump it as often.
There is a page out there where the guy cut open all of the popular filters to see how they are constructed. I wouldn't run a Fram on anything.
Mike

Here ya go - http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

From ^that^ link:

Quote: Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

I ruined an engine using a fram. Had just checked the oil the night before. Fired the bus up, pulled out of the driveway and down the block. Made a left and the oil light came on. Knowing I had oil I kept driving but trying to figure out what could be wrong. However, within a half a mile the engine seized! :shock:

It was indeed a cold ass morning in Floriduh and after pulling out of the driveway the fram blew up and drained all 6 quarts from my place down half a block! For over 6 months I had that trail of oil marker down my street as a reminder! :evil:

Been using K&M filters ever since without a single issue! :P

Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:11 pm

Do you guys run a full flow setup or one that goes off of the oil pump directly?

Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:16 pm

pyrOman wrote: Runboy wrote: Seems the main issue here is the concern for cost. Good doesn't come cheap.
I would run either the K&N or a Mobile 1. They both have the improved synthetic media in them.
I think Walmart has the Mobil 1 for Ford Application (assuming that is the type bracket you have) for $9 or so. If you are running synthetic you won't need to dump it as often.
There is a page out there where the guy cut open all of the popular filters to see how they are constructed. I wouldn't run a Fram on anything.
Mike

Here ya go - http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

From ^that^ link:

Quote: Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

I ruined an engine using a fram. Had just checked the oil the night before. Fired the bus up, pulled out of the driveway and down the block. Made a left and the oil light came on. Knowing I had oil I kept driving but trying to figure out what could be wrong. However, within a half a mile the engine seized! :shock:

It was indeed a cold ass morning in Floriduh and after pulling out of the driveway the fram blew up and drained all 6 quarts from my place down half a block! For over 6 months I had that trail of oil marker down my street as a reminder! :evil:

Been using K&M filters ever since without a single issue! :P

lesson here is when the oil light comes on turn off the bus and pull over!
I use a full flow set up I don't like the oil pump in and out deal.

Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:24 pm

Pillow wrote: Why not try a Berg pressure relief pump cover? Then run whatever oil filter you want.

Also the T4 oil filters fit up just fine where an HP1 would. That way you can run Mann filters.

What gears are in your pump?

This says it all. IF you have enough oil pressure to blow up a filter, your risking pushing bearings out. this is stupidity at its finest.
Not to rip anyone directly, but get a pressure relief cover. Then excess pressure is releived till the oil warms up and calms down.
It takes 300+ psi to pop the filter, thats bad for alot of things.
Get a berg cover, period. :)