TheSamba.com :: View topic - Battery problem-a continuing story

Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:11 pm

I have a problem with my 1985 Westfalia Weekender starter battery running down when the vehicle is unused for a couple of weeks.My indy replaced the new battery he sold me when it happened the first time,then when it happened again installed a new voltage regulator.The battery still runs down.The only application always connected to the battery is the electro-mechanical clock.Could this be the source of the problem? Any constructive help or advice welcomed. :cry:
Alan

Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:19 pm

What kind of stereo do you have?
Why did they replace the voltage regulator?
What's an indy?
Just disconnect the battery ground cable when you leave the van sitting for a few weeks.
Why wasn't that last statement a question?

Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:21 pm

1.What kind of stereo do you have? It"s a old Radio Shack cassete player.It switches off with the ignition

2.Why did they replace the voltage regulator? It was faulty.The charging system and alternator were checked out also.

3. What's an indy? An *independent* repair specialist as opposed to the franchised dealer or *stealer*. In this case BMW and VW.

4.Why wasn't that last statement a question? HUH?

Just disconnect the battery ground cable when you leave the van sitting for a few weeks.
I'll try this but I don't see why a bad ground would affect the issue.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:47 pm

Disconnect one terminal of the battery. Connect a jumper wire from the battery lug to your disconnected terminal. Attach an ammeter that reads in milliamps from the battery lug to the terminal, the same place the jumper wire is attached. Disconnect the jumper wire.

This will show your current draw. It should be less than 30 milliamps I'd say. My guess is that your current is 150 milliamps or so based on draining in two weeks. Don't turn anything on or you might blow the fuse in the ammeter. Write down what size fuses go where, or take a digital picture. Start pulling fuses and hopefully you will pull one of them and the current draw will greatly diminish. That will indicate which circuit to investigate. After you are done, remove the ammeter and replace the fuses.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:49 pm

pushticat wrote: Just disconnect the battery ground cable when you leave the van sitting for a few weeks.
I'll try this but I don't see why a bad ground would affect the issue.

Its not a bad ground that he is saying. It's to take the battery out of the circuit. The battery can not drain from a "leak" if it is not grounded. Thus, the battery will be good to go the next time you need to drive the van.

Wed Nov 12, 2008 10:33 pm

There is a Gizmo available that is installed right in between the positive battery cable & the positive post.
It reads voltage loss of the battery.

Lose 1 volt and the battery automaticly shuts down, until the next time you turn the key on.

How much easier can it get?

Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:25 am

pushticat wrote: 1.What kind of stereo do you have? It"s a old Radio Shack cassete player.It switches off with the ignition.
If it has a memory or stores presets it is drawing power no matter if it's off or on

pushticat wrote: 2.Why did they replace the voltage regulator? It was faulty.The charging system and alternator were checked out also.
The voltage regulator is part of the charging system, you replace it when the batterys not charging.

pushticat wrote: 3. What's an indy? An *independent* repair specialist as opposed to the franchised dealer or *stealer*. In this case BMW and VW..
You might want to stay away from indy, he already put on a part you don't need. indys lack of knowledge on these will cost you more money then a knowlegable steelership will, that doesn't mean your area dealer knows much about your van.

pushticat wrote: 4.Why wasn't that last statement a question? HUH?..
That was a joke, your problem isn't that bad.

pushticat wrote: Just disconnect the battery ground cable when you leave the van sitting for a few weeks.
I'll try this but I don't see why a bad ground would affect the issue.
Read the above posts, the van can't drain it if its not connected.

Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:51 am

Terry Kay wrote: There is a Gizmo available that is installed right in between the positive battery cable & the positive post.
It reads voltage loss of the battery.

Lose 1 volt and the battery automaticly shuts down, until the next time you turn the key on.

How much easier can it get?

can you point me at this baby Terry?
A link perhaps?

Kev

Sat Nov 15, 2008 2:37 pm

My battery problem has apparently been solved.Removal of the radio cut the battery draw from 200mA to 10mA.Thanks to all for their help.
I would now like to replace my old cassette player by another device which *can * be switched off completely so as to draw no current when the ignition is switched off.My Vanagon has no accessory position on the ignition switch and I would like to be able to use the player when the engine is not running. Does such a device exist? If so,any recommended makes?
Thanks,
Alan

Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:00 pm

Feed the power to your stereo through a switch, just make sure to turn the switch off as you leave. A switch with a LED light will help you remember to turn it off.

Sat Nov 15, 2008 11:36 pm

I had a similar issue with my stereo a couple of months ago. Many digital stereos have two power leads. One lead (red I think) maintains the preset memory and the second lead (yellow) powers the receiver/internal amplifier. If power doesn't get cut to the second lead the draw is much higher (~300mA in my case). I ended up running a relay powered off the key in "sensor" on the ignition switch for the main power. When the key is removed from the ignition main power is cut to the stereo. Problem solved. There are a number of threads that cover this topic in more detail.

Good luck!

Sun Nov 16, 2008 12:53 pm

That sounds like an elegant solution to the problem although in my case the wiring diagram shows only a red power wire-the player is really old.Thanks for the input.
Alan

Mon Nov 17, 2008 6:08 pm

Since I am sure that most original VW radios,presumably with minimum battery drain,have been replaced by more recent models I am wondering what other users have done in this respect..I have decided that I would like to update my ancient player to a new Pioneer P4020 cassette player-I have several thousand cassettes and only use the Westfalia for occasional camping.This has a removable faceplate.Does anyone know if removal of the faceplate will reduce battery drain? Does any other reader have a better suggestion? There must be thousands who *have* updated.Thanks a bunch.
Alan

Mon Nov 17, 2008 7:01 pm

Removing the faceplate does not reduce the battery drain in any way. The presets and clock, which cause the drain are not stored in the faceplate, they are stored in the body of the unit.

Mon Nov 17, 2008 7:43 pm

I once had a unit that pulled several hundred milliamps when the faceplate was on and next to nothing with it off. Why not measure the current drain both ways and then you will know?

Mark

pushticat wrote: Since I am sure that most original VW radios,presumably with minimum battery drain,have been replaced by more recent models I am wondering what other users have done in this respect..I have decided that I would like to update my ancient player to a new Pioneer P4020 cassette player-I have several thousand cassettes and only use the Westfalia for occasional camping.This has a removable faceplate.Does anyone know if removal of the faceplate will reduce battery drain? Does any other reader have a better suggestion? There must be thousands who *have* updated.Thanks a bunch.
Alan

Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:05 am

Most new car stereos have a memory feature on them, usually the wire for this is yellow and it will say something like hook to always on or pos battery terminal.
Newer stereos don't always draw as much power as the older ones, but more is controled by computers and it's more of a pain to have to set these up every time.
You can hook it to the ignition but all your presets will be lost and it will have to be set up everytime you turn it on.
Most radios won't work without the memory wire getting power so it has to be hooked up.
I have the radio wired to an aux/camping battery so it doesn't drain the main starting battery.
My old 81 nissan maxima had an "extended storage" switch in the fuse box, this turned off the radio and the clock so it wouldn't drain the battery.
I guess what you do depends on how long you leave the van sit between drivings.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:39 am

[quote="crazyvwvanman"]I once had a unit that pulled several hundred milliamps when the faceplate was on and next to nothing with it off. Why not measure the current drain both ways and then you will know?

Mark

True,but I would have to buy the device first and then if it wasn't satisfactory I'd be stuck with it.
Alan

Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:08 pm

I just tested mine. The faceplate made no difference at all.
.024 Amp drain without faceplate
.024 Amp drain with faceplate. - no difference!
Does this sound like too much drain? I wonder what is normal and what other people have.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:57 pm

Perales wrote: I just tested mine. The faceplate made no difference at all.
.024 Amp drain without faceplate
.024 Amp drain with faceplate. - no difference!
Does this sound like too much drain? I wonder what is normal and what other people have.

This sounds great.It is 1/10 of what mine draws and equals the drain when the player is removed from the sleeve entirely.May I ask what make and model your players is?
Thanks.
Alan

Tue Nov 18, 2008 1:12 pm

pushticat wrote:
This sounds great.It is 1/10 of what mine draws and equals the drain when the player is removed from the sleeve entirely.May I ask what make and model your players is?

I have a Panasonic CQ-C1401U
It is not a bad unit but does not have an iPod input. I have been using the iTrip as a workaround and that works just fine.