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Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:28 pm

Ok heres where im at. I have a '70 "B" engine that the PO put 1641 kit in and apparently busted the hell out of the case by not lining up the bearings with the dowl pins. I actually hadnt opened the case until last week when 2 of the 10mm head studs pulled out. I installed thread inserts and thought all would be fine till I pressue washed the other half of the case and found the sump was cracked all to hell in several locations. Ok new case minimum is $600 and I just can't afford it right now. Im not looking for performance in this build, just something to drive instead of my bike this winter. My father in law had an engine in a baja out in the woods I've pulled. I havent opened it yet so I dont know the case is good or not. It's and "F" case which from what I can find is a '66 1300 first year? I know there are single relief and dual relief and I still reading about all that. I just want to know if this case is good if it will work out alright for at least a few months. The "B"engine is a DP and the "F" is a SP. Ive got all the components from both. The "F" engine also had a 12 volt starter bolted to it for those who were gonna ask. Am I on the right track? Thanks, Jon

Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:09 pm

Seems to me you're going the wrong direction, for a couple of reasons. A 1300 case is probably going to have a ton of miles on it and you don't know the history of the engine, in other words, was it overheated, run on low oil pressure or otherwise abused? Also, going from dual back to single oil relief is not a plus. Be honest, are you really going to build yourself another motor in "a few months"? Having said that, if you are intent on using the 1300 case, at least take it to a VW machine shop and have it checked over real good for cracks and bearing specs. You can get a brand new case for $480. Here's a link:
http://www.brothersvwmachineshop.com/machine.htm

Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:46 am

Its nice that most of you guys live on the west coast where stuff is available. The only thing local to me is GEX. I dont have to say anymore about that. I realize its an older case and 500 isnt any cheaper than 600 when your already broke(also 500 = 600 when your shipping from west coast this way). There are absolutely no machine shops in my area that work on ACVW period. I'm not some kid that knows nothing. I've built several high RPM sportbike engines and a few small Block Chevys. I'm simply asking about the buildability of a 1300 into a 1600. I've pretty much answered my own questions after reading several other threads. It can be done. There are several people who have built over 2000 with single relief cases so that doesnt seem to be a huge concern. Basically who has done this and what are your experiences or concerns to look for. And to answer your question "Honestly" yes I will build another motor in a few months if need be. I really want to build a descent performing 1776 or similar when I get a few of my finances turned around but right now its getting cold and Im tired of riding the CBR.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:11 am

Flat out the 1300 is a strong case, even if you have to send it out to get checked and possibly machined it will handle your needs

Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:44 am

F, H and B cases are all so old and most have issues with the 10mm studs pulling from the case. SO if your even considering using one installing case savers or time serts is a must IMHO.

And the oil galleys are much smaller on them ( except the B which did get bigger galleys) and 6mm oil pump studs on those F and early H's.

If you check the classifieds on here or check around local shops a good late model case can be found without breaking the bank.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:25 am

thats just the thing, crap ACVW stuff here is gold. There isnt anything local cheap or otherwise. I just happened to get this engine because someone had left the baja in my father-in-laws back yard for a few years. I have thread inserts if the studs decide to pull. I do wonder about the oil galleys and 6mm oil pump studs though. It's an autostick bug so the oil pump is different than a manual. Will 6mm studs work or do they need to be enlarged to 8mm if thats even possible? I understand its an old case, but im not looking for performance. I just want the thing to run decent enough to get me through the winter.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 4:57 pm

check out european auto and machine in az, i got my reconditioned case for 221 dollars shipped.

here's his e mail

europeanautomach@aol.com

Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:31 pm

Maybe these guys can help, not to sure how close you are though.

http://www.wayoutsalvage.com/

Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:55 pm

f4stunter wrote: thats just the thing, crap ACVW stuff here is gold. There isnt anything local cheap or otherwise. I just happened to get this engine because someone had left the baja in my father-in-laws back yard for a few years. I have thread inserts if the studs decide to pull. I do wonder about the oil galleys and 6mm oil pump studs though. It's an autostick bug so the oil pump is different than a manual. Will 6mm studs work or do they need to be enlarged to 8mm if thats even possible? I understand its an old case, but im not looking for performance. I just want the thing to run decent enough to get me through the winter.

i know what you mean on the GOLD i'm in russellville, Ar and my local veedub mech charges 120 bucks to open a case for bigger juggs, 65 to open heads and won't strocker clearence a case for nothing and to top it all off he trys to sell a subi to everyone over aircooled. I'm not downin a subi or anything but if i'm gonna blow someones doors off its gonna be aircooled. I'm seriously thinking bout opening a shop cause there is just not any decent acvw places around here. The few that are around have crazy prices for parts and they can because other than the we have to order everything off the west coast have to wait 2-3 weeks for stuff to get here and i've ordered from several diferent companies.