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Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:45 pm

This is my distributor. 231 176 028 - - 043905 205C
Dual Vacuum advance.

I have a 73 Std beetle with a stock 1600 Dual port engine.
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/249559/img_8959.jpg

I noticed that I was starting to stumble off starts so I checked to make sure I didnt have any vacuum leaks and tried the suck test on the vac canister. It was no go.Tried to move the plate with my hands and its frozen.

The car still runs at the moment but it stumbles at low speeds. Is there anything easy I can do to free this up? Easy rebuild? Any help would greatly be appreciated.[/url]

Mon Nov 17, 2008 4:01 pm

i bet you have grit somewhere in you points

Mon Nov 17, 2008 4:02 pm

Are you sure the vacuum canisters are still working?

Mon Nov 17, 2008 4:07 pm

Nope. I Just tried the suck test on both ports. I am a novice at this sort of thing.
I have no idea if this is something that I could undue a screw or two and use a brush and some Wd- 40 or an I just way in over my head and should buy a new one.

How would I go about testing this Glenn?

Mon Nov 17, 2008 5:08 pm

Holy cow, get some hose clamps on that fuel filter and lines!!! That thing's a fireball waiting to happen! :shock: Better yet, move it out of the engine compartment.

Mon Nov 17, 2008 5:48 pm

Suggestion:

Find a vise really small punch for the bottom and take that thing apart. You need to take pictures and make a dwawing on the cardboard you are going to be doing it on so if will go back teogether correctly.

Clean all of that rust off everything with Gum Out carb cleaner and some "brasso" fine steel wool. Do everything in there and note where the washers go and everything else in there.

Test the vacuum can with this thing or something like it to ensure it will actually hold a vacuum. http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16292

Lubricate those sliding plates in the distributor with Bosch distributor grease only please.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:31 am

Thank you for some input Randy.

I will put some hose clamps on the lines. I had them on with a wire tie around the inlet body but they mysteriously vanished the last time I took it to a shop....saying it added too much weight etc. Cant win either way it seems...

Now comes the thread about me asking how best to take the Distributor out and put it back in without killing anything.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 4:47 am

Dak Ink wrote: Now comes the thread about me asking how best to take the Distributor out and put it back in without killing anything.

Hell, that's the easy part. Just loosen the clamp at the distributor base, and wiggle/pull up, it'll come out. If it's really stuck in there, a little penetrating oil down the side of the shaft will help.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:42 am

Anytime you go to remove the distributor, at least do it at TDC for #1 so you will know how it has to go back in.

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/instdist.htm

Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:33 am

Why not leave the clamp on?

Just remove the 13mm nut that holds the clamp to the engine. Then when you reinstall it just bolt it in and the timing will be the same.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:11 am

Thanks guys. I think I can do this. I found Glenns rebuild pictoral online.I think as long as I just go slow and take lots of pictures I can kinda follow along and get this done.

Thank you for the distributor removal tips.

I will let you guys know how it comes along.Just have to pick up some tools and cleaning fluid. Wish me luck.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 1:47 pm

I found a very small little punch at Lowes (that is used to remove the pin from kitchen cabinet door hinges) handy to remove the pin at the bottom of the shaft.

Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:14 pm

Ok 2 things....

Sp far this has been alot easier than I had imagined.Got the distributor out and stripped down to where I can take the pin out. This is where I am having my first issue.
I broke my pin push trying to take the pin out. It was a small one so... I guess Im curious how much force does it take to knock the pin out?

and 2nd I was playing with the vacuum canister and when I pulled the arm out gasoline squirted all over me from one of the ports( bottom). I am going to assume this is not normal.
So...do I need a new canister and 2nd why would there be gas in my vacuum.I know its attached to the carb so...am I running way to rich or something?

Thank you guys so much for your help so far.

Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:11 pm

I wrapped my distributor in a leather glove and removed the pin with a small punch (or a roofing nail or something similar) while it was held in the vise.

That gas will eat up the seals in the vacuum canister. Check yours to see if it will hold a vacuum. From the factory all of them came with a "shepard's crook" piece of metal tubing that rose above the carb to keep gas running back to the carb to save the canister. Make one.

Sort of like this...

Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:34 pm

Ya know I used to have one of those in there. I have no idea when it disappeared or where it went to. And Im sure it would be a bitch to find one.
Make one...Have any idea what kind/ size of tubing I could use?

Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:49 pm

A zip tie can be used to get the vacuum line above the carb.

Or take some vacuum tubing into a FLAPS and see if they can sell you some tubing that will fit and maybe bend it for you with the bender so it doesn't kink.

Get creative.

Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:29 pm

Well I have it all apart and am soaking the parts in cleaner.
One of the weights was frozen in place and wasnt moving when the shaft was turning. So I got it off and it is moving freely now.That should help a bit I am sure. Man it looks soooo much cleaner inside now.

I dont have a vac tester but I will run out in the AM and pick one up before final assembly and re install to double check it.

I have just one dumb question left...so far....

Where do I put the distributor grease? On the shaft that goes into the distributor housing? And ?

Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:19 am

I will defer to Glenn's website here

http://www.glenn-ring.com/010/

but the grease just goes where things slide or move, with the exception of the weights.

If you had a big syringe, you may be able to use that as a vacuum pump.

Thu Nov 20, 2008 2:34 pm

Went and bought a vacuum tester at harbor freight( just got the sale paper this AM),was on sale for 20 bucks and the can holds vacuum and I have the advance plate, weights and shaft back in the body. Soaking the point plate in cleaner. and should be done this afternoon.It looks 100% better and feels alot smoother than before so I cross my fingers. Pics will be forthcoming.

All in all still out ahead as I had to buy most of the tools needed for this job, a vise, vac tester, punches, and cleaner. Maybe 60$ total vs a new dist for 120+ labor...

This is what I love about the bug. A little bit of research and some time and it really is that easy to fix.

Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:15 pm

Well it went back together pretty smooth(taking pictures was priceless ). I set the rotor towards the point it was at when I took it out( thanks photos). Dropped right in with a tiny turn, hooked up the condensor wire and vac lines, popped the cap back on and prayed.

Jumped in and it fired right up. Drove around the block a few times and it accelerates smoothly now, feels much better than before. The idle RPM is up just a little, but I did not let it fully warm up either. I have to thank Glenn and Randy for the help and knowledge. If you guys lived a lil closer to Cali Id buy you a beer.

Pics if anyone is interested.
http://picasaweb.google.com/desicratn/Bug#