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  View original topic: Axel nut puller
beatleeater Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:30 pm

Has anyone used this tool before? http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Pr...nut+puller

Any thoughts?

Eric&Barb Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:50 pm

JUNK!
Go out and buy the correct sized 3/4 drive sockets from Sears or Proto. Then buy the Proto 3/4 drive breaker bar.

hazetguy Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:50 pm

my thought would be to use the search feature, as this has been talked about in many threads before. here are a few:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=258451
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251968

you might also try searching in the other forums, as this tool is used on most air cooled VW's.

my advice: get a good socket and breaker bar.

beatleeater Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:58 pm

hazetguy wrote: my thought would be to use the search feature, as this has been talked about in many threads before. here are a few:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=258451
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251968

you might also try searching in the other forums, as this tool is used on most air cooled VW's.

my advice: get a good socket and breaker bar.

I read both before posting. I do try before asking questions that have been covered. I need the 46mm breaker. I'll buy the correct socket, just found the jc junk on the web and was hopeful. Should have know better.

Erik G Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:12 pm

hold up, I use those on a regular basis, where I have snapped breaker bars. If they have ever been tightened too tight, you need one of these. Also useful when the engine is missing, brakes are shot, etc.

der58SC Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:23 pm

I use this and have never had problems.

Torque Meister
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

Unfortunately, it is not designed for a bus rear axle so I welded some bolts onto a couple of extra lug nuts. Works great now!

Eric&Barb Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:28 pm

If you have broken a breaker bar it either was junk to begin with, or too small for the job.
Have literally hung (weigth 200 Lbs.) off a 10' cheater pipe and just barely broken a rusty junk yard bus axle nut loose. Proto 3/4 drive breaker bar worked and did not bend at all. If had been using a 3/4 drive Craftsman it would have been all bent up or even broken. BTDT!

70 140 Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:32 pm

I have never used it with a breaker bar, just to bang on with a mini sledge. They work well for that. My only complaint is that they are kind of thin, welding 2 together would make it pretty beefy.

roberto Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:39 pm

Unfortunately, it is not designed for a bus rear axle so I welded some bolts onto a couple of extra lug nuts. Works great now![/quote]

Do you by chance have a picture of your set up?

mattoreg Thu Nov 20, 2008 7:31 pm

Go buy one of these...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=808
and the correct size socket. For the amount of times you'll use it, the ~$70 isn't half bad considering the price of most larger torque wrenches.

amishman Thu Nov 20, 2008 7:45 pm

mattoreg wrote: Go buy one of these...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=808
and the correct size socket. For the amount of times you'll use it, the ~$70 isn't half bad considering the price of most larger torque wrenches.

But, should a torque wrench be used to "loosen" the nut, or just for when putting it back on? or can it be used for both?

For whatever reason, I have it in my head only to torque it back on, and better to use a breaker bar for removing.

tj

beatleeater Thu Nov 20, 2008 9:29 pm

amishman wrote: mattoreg wrote: Go buy one of these...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=808
and the correct size socket. For the amount of times you'll use it, the ~$70 isn't half bad considering the price of most larger torque wrenches.

But, should a torque wrench be used to "loosen" the nut, or just for when putting it back on? or can it be used for both?

For whatever reason, I have it in my head only to torque it back on, and better to use a breaker bar for removing.

tj

you are right. Do not use a torque wrench to break any nut. I bought the chinsey tool, only from jbugs (7.50$). And I bought the correct socket.

Ruptured Tortoise Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:09 pm

beatleeater wrote: Has anyone used this tool before? http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Pr...nut+puller

Any thoughts?

I have two sizes of those, one for the bus and the one for my bug which I've been using since I bought my first Karmann Ghia in 1986. You want to use a breaker bar to hold it steady while you pound on it.

mattoreg Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:02 pm

beatleeater wrote: amishman wrote: mattoreg wrote: Go buy one of these...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=808
and the correct size socket. For the amount of times you'll use it, the ~$70 isn't half bad considering the price of most larger torque wrenches.

But, should a torque wrench be used to "loosen" the nut, or just for when putting it back on? or can it be used for both?

For whatever reason, I have it in my head only to torque it back on, and better to use a breaker bar for removing.

tj

you are right. Do not use a torque wrench to break any nut. I bought the chinsey tool, only from jbugs (7.50$). And I bought the correct socket.

I used a hammer, chisel, rust-loose spray to remove the nuts that's were locked onto my DC; that was after I broke a breaker bar and my socket wrench. (didn't have the torque wrench at that time). Now I use my torque wrench to loosen and tighten nuts. If I were you I'd try the torque wrench to free your locked up axle nuts! Of course you have to use common sense, if you set it at 300 and you know you're tweaking beyond, you may want to stop before you wreck your wrench.

Plus, you'll need the wrench to put the nuts back on to spec...

der58SC Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:02 pm

roberto wrote: Unfortunately, it is not designed for a bus rear axle so I welded some bolts onto a couple of extra lug nuts. Works great now!

Do you by chance have a picture of your set up?[/quote]


I will try but my problem now is that I no longer have a bus trans. I swapped it out and have bug brakes on it currently. I will try to slap it all together and take a pic to give you a better idea of what I did.

dstefun Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:40 am

der58SC wrote: Unfortunately, it is not designed for a bus rear axle so I welded some bolts onto a couple of extra lug nuts. Works great now! roberto wrote:
Do you by chance have a picture of your set up?
der58SC wrote:
I will try but my problem now is that I no longer have a bus trans. I swapped it out and have bug brakes on it currently. I will try to slap it all together and take a pic to give you a better idea of what I did.

Besides bolts to mount it to the drum, if you have 46mm big nuts, you will need to make a 36mm to 46mm adaptor - I can send you a pdf of the orignal Kymco instructions, but here's a pix from another thread about the TM.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=155573

Nic B-C Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:35 am

dstefun wrote: der58SC wrote: Unfortunately, it is not designed for a bus rear axle so I welded some bolts onto a couple of extra lug nuts. Works great now! roberto wrote:
Do you by chance have a picture of your set up?
der58SC wrote:
I will try but my problem now is that I no longer have a bus trans. I swapped it out and have bug brakes on it currently. I will try to slap it all together and take a pic to give you a better idea of what I did.

Besides bolts to mount it to the drum, if you have 46mm big nuts, you will need to make a 36mm to 46mm adaptor - I can send you a pdf of the orignal Kymco instructions, but here's a pix from another thread about the TM.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=155573


Liking the idea of this as my torque master is a godsend, does it not mat the cog too far out though?

bugnut68 Mon Dec 08, 2008 10:43 am

Eric&Barb wrote: JUNK!
Go out and buy the correct sized 3/4 drive sockets from Sears or Proto. Then buy the Proto 3/4 drive breaker bar.

I'm sure you'll be completely disappointed to find out that it worked just fine for Beatleeater and I yesterday... :lol:

dstefun Mon Dec 08, 2008 11:05 am

Nic B-C wrote:
Liking the idea of this as my torque master is a godsend, does it not mat the cog too far out though?

I'm not sure what you are asking but send me your email address and I will send you pdf copies of the original Kymco TM instructions.
-Dave

Clara Mon Dec 08, 2008 11:20 am

mattoreg wrote: beatleeater wrote: amishman wrote: mattoreg wrote: Go buy one of these...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=808
and the correct size socket. For the amount of times you'll use it, the ~$70 isn't half bad considering the price of most larger torque wrenches.

But, should a torque wrench be used to "loosen" the nut, or just for when putting it back on? or can it be used for both?

For whatever reason, I have it in my head only to torque it back on, and better to use a breaker bar for removing.

tj

you are right. Do not use a torque wrench to break any nut. I bought the chinsey tool, only from jbugs (7.50$). And I bought the correct socket.

I used a hammer, chisel, rust-loose spray to remove the nuts that's were locked onto my DC; that was after I broke a breaker bar and my socket wrench. (didn't have the torque wrench at that time). Now I use my torque wrench to loosen and tighten nuts. If I were you I'd try the torque wrench to free your locked up axle nuts! Of course you have to use common sense, if you set it at 300 and you know you're tweaking beyond, you may want to stop before you wreck your wrench.

Plus, you'll need the wrench to put the nuts back on to spec...
Well, actually you don't really need the torque wrench.

For years I'd just do the math and stand on the slide bar at the distance for the proper torque. Then Greg got a fancy torque wrench, which he likes to use, but I find it easy to just stand on the slide bar.

I find the banger tool can be useful when someone pulled a tranny out and left the drums on. I used it the other day for that very reason.
Generally to undo the nut I use the 3/4" drive socket and slide bar... and the 5" cheater pipe if needed. I feel that the banging could be bad for the bearings.
I had used the 1/2" flex handle, but broke a few of them. Then I was given the 3/4" slide bar and socket for small nut back in about '89 by someone who no longer had a bus, and they said... oh, you'll need this.

I still have it, and it has had a lot of use.

Only once was I unable to undo a nut with that tool, and it was epic.
Ended up taking it to the tire shop, which had a 1" drive socket and a 15,000 ft lb gun. That nut made the impact gun WORK to remove that nut. OMFG



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