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Fri Nov 21, 2008 11:46 am

I searched a couple areas but didn't find what I was looking for. I am going to be replacing the heater channels on my '74. I 've read that people POR-15 the 2 piece heater channels before welding them together.

Mine are one piece ( bottom plates already welded on). Are you guys just pouring POR-15 or any other type of sealer into the heater channels before welding them on? I figured I'd tape off the vent holes and pour it in and spin and tilt it to get good coverage. Any tips on what to use that will do a good job and how you went about it?

Sat Nov 22, 2008 6:09 pm

spray some wax oyl in there

Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:36 pm

I've thought about this a bit myself, because I'll be replacing the channels on my 70 Ghia this spring. I have all the pieces and I'll be assembling the channels myself (including the convertible reinforcement).
Not having done it yet, all I can say is how I plan to do it:
I'll probably use some weld through primer (U-POL#2 seems to have gotten some decent reviews). After welding, I plan to cut the handle of a medium sized artist brush about 1 inch from the bristles. Then, with wood glue or a nail, screw, etc. I'll re-attach the long portion of the handle, but at a 90º angle. This will make an "L" shaped handle with the bristles at the end of the short portion of the "L". The "L" will then be attached to a broom stick or something like that.
Now I have a very long 90º brush which I'll be able to insert into one end of the channel.
I plan on using this brush to paint the inside of the channel/rocker assembly with POR-15, paying special attention to the bottom (lower) areas (this is where condensation will end up pooling due to gravity). I might end up cutting a little hole at the top of the channel after it has been welded shut, to reach in there with the brush and paint inside of the ends I will have welded on. I will first try to reach, at least the front end, through the hot air outlet from inside the car.
I hope that this train of thought helps.

Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:43 am

Quote: spray some wax oyl in there
Just keep your fire extinguisher handy when you weld it on the body!

Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:52 pm

Try to stay away from the welding primer. Welding Primers are BAD, BAD, BAD, BAD, BAD. No matter what they say they still are adding crap into your weld. MIG welding is a very dirty welding process. From all the X rays I have seen of MIG welds you would be surprised how much shit gets in your weld. Using Primer before welding just adds more, which makes weaker welds, which could cause a catastrophic failure. What I would do is put a oil in the heat channels when done and redo this once a year.

Fri Dec 05, 2008 5:49 am

What about oxy-acetylene welding? Does it burn the primer off where the bead forms? I plan to do most of my welding the old fashion way (with a torch).
Thanks.

Fri Dec 05, 2008 1:12 pm

mig weld it, then use 3M Rust Fighter 1. Be sure to get the 36" application wand with the gun. It sprays straight out and in a circular pattern. I drilled a hole in the fender well just big enough for the end of the wand to go in and sprayed it in that way.

Sat Dec 06, 2008 3:18 am

Maybe you could use a gas tank sealer? Considering they are meant to be swished around inside?

Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:18 am

I poured Chasis Saver paint inside mine. Very messy job. Make sure you install the bolts to keep the threads of the welded nuts on the bottom plate clean.

Good luck

Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:04 am

Deutsch wrote: What about oxy-acetylene welding? Does it burn the primer off where the bead forms? I plan to do most of my welding the old fashion way (with a torch).
Thanks.

Why not just use bubble gum ?

Welcome to the new millenium. Get a mig welder.

Steve

Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:28 am

Cushe,
Bubble gum does not make a good weld. MIG makes a hard weld and costs way more than a torch.

You may want to read this, even though he does not mention bubble gum in his article:
http://metalshapers.org/101/jkelly/index.html
If you have any doubts about the author of this article I suggest you do a forum search on this guy; he's really well respected here.

Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:33 pm

Deutsch wrote: What about oxy-acetylene welding? Does it burn the primer off where the bead forms? I plan to do most of my welding the old fashion way (with a torch).
Thanks.

Up here in Indiana we don't use that anymore. It just sticks the 2 panels together. Mig fuses them. More Expensive... maybe, but you will get a much better job with a mig. And as far as the link... I've heard of him. Don't know him personally but would like to meet some day.

I hate to toot my own horn, but I'm pretty well respected here in my town. You can look at some of my work if you like. I have a post on my '59 build over in the reader's rides forum. I have nothing to hide. Lot's of pics and descriptions. Before, during and after. 31 pages to peruse.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=200224

I've been doing body and frame repair professionally for over 20 years now and that last time anyone in our shop lit op the O/A torch to "weld" a panel on a customers car was in 1987.... And that car came back to our shop within 6 months because the O/A weld was popping loose....No one teaches that anymore because it's not a good way to attach metal to your car. Same with lead.... We agree to disagree. You do it your way and I'll do it mine...

Steve

Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:36 pm

As far as protecting the insides of the heater chanels... I will be using epoxy primer with a long wand, after I place the body back on the chassis. Lots of good ideas above.

Steve

Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:43 pm

I used electrical fish tape and a coffee pot cleaning sponge once. Worked ok.

Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:58 am

Cushe,
I browsed your 31 page post. Your beetle looks excellent. It's always nice to see a rust bucket come back to life.