TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:40 pm

basic info
---------------------------------------------
f11 emulsion
50 idle
133 main
200 air correction

engine
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1955cc

55cc chambers
.040 spacer
pistons flush with barrels = 6.49 deck?
90.5 pistons
76 stroke
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w110 cam
009 dist
stock rockers
cb 044 40x35.5
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alright, i aquired a set of 40 idf webbers, italian. throttle shafts have zero play, they look great! ones missing the two screws to hold on the top for the air cleaner, and there both missing the little arm to connect the carb to the cross bar.

theres one oddity.....

on the opposite side of the accellerator pump theres epoxy. apparently done for performance reasons? on one carb i can see a steel or iron screw where the epoxy is, the other doesnt seem to have it...

so whats up with this? anything i should change before i bolt them on?

i can take a pic of the other one, with that metal screw in it. ill snap it tomorrow[/u]

Fri Nov 21, 2008 10:02 pm

i really like this link

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf_adjustment_controls.htm

although, i couldnt find out what the hell the epoxy is covering!

does the jetting sound ok or close at all?

Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:57 am

Underneath that epoxy are a couple of holes that are normally plugged. It's possible that for some reason someone removed the plugs and later filled the holes with epoxy.

Scott Novak

Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:42 am

What size are your venturis? 32 mm? It makes a big difference, especially with regard to the main jet size.

Sat Nov 22, 2008 8:51 am

Scott Novak wrote: Underneath that epoxy are a couple of holes that are normally plugged. It's possible that for some reason someone removed the plugs and later filled the holes with epoxy.

Scott Novak

thanks, i was hoping they just covered some freeze plugs or something like that!!!!

sactojesse wrote: What size are your venturis? 32 mm? It makes a big difference, especially with regard to the main jet size.

yah, the vents are 32's.

they apperntly came off a strung out drag race 1641.

does the setting look decent or close for my engine?

thanks so much!

Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:15 pm

That is JB Weld your looking at. Underneath you'll find lead inserts press fitted. The JB weld is to keep them from vibrating loose and dumping fuel all over your HOT motor :shock: . Highly advised to do the other carb as well. They do work loose over time. The JB Weld will hold them in place very well.

I'd go down on the vent size and mains.

Sat Nov 22, 2008 7:15 pm

udidwht wrote: I'd go down on the vent size

Obviously, you don't know Chris very well.... :shock:

Sun Nov 23, 2008 12:59 am

miniman82 wrote: udidwht wrote: I'd go down on the vent size

Obviously, you don't know Chris very well.... :shock: hmmmmmmm????? Lol

Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:44 am

udidwht wrote: That is JB Weld your looking at. Underneath you'll find lead inserts press fitted. The JB weld is to keep them from vibrating loose and dumping fuel all over your HOT motor :shock: . Highly advised to do the other carb as well. They do work loose over time. The JB Weld will hold them in place very well.

I'd go down on the vent size and mains.

well luckily they are both epoxyed already!

i just gotta fix part of the linkage, one of the joints is busted. im going to try to fix it today and bolt them up!

Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:04 pm

alright, i took a day to hook them up and test thing out.

first thing i noticed was idle speed, was at 2k rpm. i turned the idle screws all out and idle was still at 1.5k rpm. air bleeds where snugged.

3/4 seemed fine, flowed close. good squirt.
1/2 was ok, 2 was not flowing good. good squirt.

besides that, i didnt try to drive or anything before i get some jets that would be good or close to my size engine.

im not sure whats up with the low flowing #2, but i backed out the air-bleed and it raised the flow alot.

im really considering having mark take care of them, its worth it. but if it just needs some jets and TLC, then ill take care of it myself. like i said, throttle shafts are tight!

Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:48 pm

well checked out marks site, sadly hes not doing carbs anymore :(

but theres alot of good info there!

im going to take them apart and clean them up. replace some o-rings.

question: how do i correct the high idle speed?

Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:52 pm

Chris, determine WHY the idle speed is reading so fast.

1. eliminate linkage - disconnect it to set up idle settings.
2. check flow rates with snail gauge - at idle should be on the order of around 4 to 6 most of the time.
3. timing matters. 10 degrees on 009 at idle is a close estimate.. if you have it somewhere between 8 and 12 you are probably in the ballpark.
4. vac leaks (will not show up as high flow on snail)
5. cold start circuits MUST have plungers installed on yours. They were originally drilled and equipped on your carbs, as I can see from the pic.

High flow rates with idle speed screws backed out means plates are not closing right, most times.

Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:56 pm

mharney wrote: Chris, determine WHY the idle speed is reading so fast.

1. eliminate linkage - disconnect it to set up idle settings.
2. check flow rates with snail gauge - at idle should be on the order of around 4 to 6 most of the time.
3. timing matters. 10 degrees on 009 at idle is a close estimate.. if you have it somewhere between 8 and 12 you are probably in the ballpark.
4. vac leaks (will not show up as high flow on snail)
5. cold start circuits MUST have plungers installed on yours. They were originally drilled and equipped on your carbs, as I can see from the pic.

High flow rates with idle speed screws backed out means plates are not closing right, most times.

linkage wasnt hooked up.

3/4 was around five, half point difference
1/2 was lower, around 3 or 4. #2 was slow to bring the gauge up to two.

timing is dead on.

plungers behind those block off plates?

what could cause them from closing? i tryed to apply a lil pressure to close them, didnt work.

Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:09 pm

They have springs, crowns and clips that hold them down from to top of the body section. The diagram here shows it, although this model is slightly different in some ways.

If they're down, they're down. And if they are closed, and if the flows are that low, it should be a reasonable idle speed. Do the spray test around the intake bases.

Not all synch tools are the same either.. I have seen two points difference from one to the next, but still that should have you in the 1000 RPM range.

Mon Dec 15, 2008 3:24 pm

alright, there running pretty good.

theres just a little stutter around 1700-2k rpm.

also, full throttle dampens the acceleration while in mid range.

Mon Dec 15, 2008 6:10 pm

32 vents in 40 IDFs often benefit from larger main/air combos. I like to try 140/220 on those sometimes. Is the stutter right at steady throttle or some other condition?

Floats are very important.. if they are wrong, you never get the tune right.

Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:53 pm

it will kinda... pull more, then less, with steady throttle untill maybe 3k rpm, and has a nice little stumble with WOT at 1.2-2.2k rpm.

also, it takes a lil while for it to go back down to idle, if you tap the throttle i would say maybe two or three seconds to come back to idle.

further, on decel, it has a low stutter gurgle sound. doesnt slow down the car much, if u know what i mean. maybe too rich?

i need to get some hiem joints and some thru thread to replace the side linkage on one carb, i have two different styles of joints. one side is hiem, the other has a ball joint type, and has freeplay.

just adjusted the valves, points, and set my timing to 30* full advance with my 009.

like i said.... ive never had a VW engine run this well, its very smooth and sounds great.