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Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:07 pm

got my adjustable beam from bus boys. i was expecting just a bare beam, but its complete! very nice suprise!

Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:15 pm

complete? explain

Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:11 pm

the thing on the bottom bar that turns the wheels and tie rods connect to it, needle bearings, grease fittings, adjusters, very nicely done!

Fri Dec 12, 2008 3:44 pm

another suprise, the decklid i bought was supposed to be for a 67...tis not. so how do i make the latch work? or does anyone want a pre 67 decklid and i'll find a 67?

Wed Dec 17, 2008 12:18 pm

i talked to the guy i got the decklid from, it seems that there are 2 different decklids for the 66-67, i got the earlier one from him. another question...is styrofoam a decent insulator? the styrofoam on the nose is about gone but the entertainment center i just bought has some thin sheets in it for packing so i'm thinking of glueing it where the original styrofoam was.

Wed Dec 24, 2008 7:46 pm

got some stuff done to the bus. pulled the engine and degreased it, removed the stock intake for the dual sp ICTs and removed the fanhousing for the doghouse set up and alternator kit. switched out the 009 for SVDA with petronix. stock exhaust came off for header with quietpac and jtubes and painted with 1200deg paint. long block and tin will get a coat of 500deg flat black. got some water in the engine so changed the oil with royal purple 10w-30. got some royal purlpe for the tranny too when i pull it and cleran and flip@ the ring gear for the straight axle kit. got spinldes and plates from nate and adj beam from bus boys. in the mifddle of replacing my wiper shafts and front glass and body/interior/engine rubber.

Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:45 pm

another nice little suprise, when i went to change my spark plugs and do a compression test(still have to figure out how to do that since i got a reading of no more than 30) i found that one of the spark plug holes was stripped out and repaired in the past. the repaired part came out with the spark plug. i meeting bob tomorrow to see if he has somethign to fix it. if it'll work hopefully i can drive it for a couple more years. i plan on building a type4 for it later so dont wanna do too much to this engine. i also saw '1500s' on my oil pump but i searched and found it means nothing. also the rear tin i bought at the local bug shop doesn't fit good at all, but i got it in there with some trimming. hopefully i wont have to take everything apart again for awhile if bob has the part i need.

Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:48 pm

bob hooked me up with a middle seat, nice doghouse shroud and a sp rebuiult head. very nice! now i gotta take the engine down to short block and get new rings and hone the cylinders. bus should run very nice when i'm finally done. pics will come soon. i get the interior rubber seals this week so i can finish putting bed coating o nthe floor with the new seals after that. cover some rust holes with the construction sign and get some cheap carpet for the rear and cargo floor. i have the front rubber mat i can still use.

Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:45 am

does anyone know where i can get the little rubber plugs for the 1/4in or so holes all around the edge of the cargo floor?

Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:21 pm

this is getting expensive! i got a loan for 8k, bus cost 4100 delivered. then around 1300 at aircooled.net, 1200 at bus boys, 830 at wagenswest, 1000 from ebay and thesamba classifieds, around 700 at autozone, 325 in tires, 100 at WCM. that covers all the suspension, engine, tranny, and lowering stuff. also all the rubber that needed to be replace or missing. a stolen street sign and some left over bedliner from a friend helps. bob around monterey was a big help with the doghouse conversion and a sp head and middle seat. i was even able to get new wide 5 t3 rear drums, sp manifolds for the ICTs and the correct walk thru front seats(with replacement seat rail) for a great price! everything's working out great, just gotta get it al ltogether once i get the last 3 boxes of stuff in the mail. i found rubber matting cut to length at home depot type store in monterey for a good price for the floor. i ended up spending about 2500 on top of the 8k loan. i've sold 2 mountain bikes for a total of 1700 and i have a bowflex and 100 dics pioneer cd changer for sale right now to pay off the extra money needed before my wife notices the credit card balance lol.

Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:39 pm

Wow, so essentially $10,500 for this turd:

:lol: :shock:

Any progress pics?

Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:54 pm

lol, yep. thats what my friends say that dont know about cars too. yea i've been meaning to take pics, but haven't. i replaced the sliding locks and vent wing locks on the doors, replaced the cracked front window and both seals. sanded and painted rust spots with rustoleom primer, found cargo door handles, fixed rear hatch lock, put in the short shift kit, shifter lay back extension, in the middle of replacing jacked-up wiper shafts and installing new wipers, bolting on front emblem, bondoing over a few 1/4in holes, cleaning/primering parcel tray, try to get my lights to work, patching rust spots, painting/sealing floor and any extra holes, top-end rebuild on engine, pulling and cleaning tranny and gas tank, then install the lowered stuff for the rear and flipping ring gear. once all that gets done i'll drive the bus around the block and pull it in the garage front-first so i can pull the front beam and put in the new adjustable one. KYB gas-adjust shocks all around. gotta take off the rack and clean and paint it too. i got some aluminum color paint for the rack and headlights. still would love to get a nice set of overriders and fog lights and 3rd brake light and maybe even reverse lights. also need to build the console between the walkthru to hide my setereo stuff and gain some storage with cup holders and lighter for accessories. i also have heat shield for rear cargo area and rubber mat from autozone to cover it up. home depot has rubber matting cut-to-lentgh. i have 4 cans of undercoating for the underside too once i clean it up and fix the rust spot on the rear crossmember. i'll post pics as i actually complete something.

Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:58 pm

kingodirtp3 wrote: i have 4 cans of undercoating for the underside too once i clean it up and fix the rust spot on the rear crossmember.

Step away from the undercoating can. . . Please! Use a good grey primer with a high zinc content for now.

Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:59 pm

the under coating is only going on the panels that lead to the interior, mostly in the rear just to stop the engine/road noise. primer will go on first.

Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:10 pm

I'm curious what you bought for $700 at AutoZone? The only stuff I buy there is carb. and other cleaners.

Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:23 pm

tools (incuding jack, stands, sockets, ring compressor, rubber hammer, oil container, stool, crawler, other odd tools) paint, paint suplies (bondo, sand paper, steel wool), royal purple fluids, seat covers, degreaser, bedliner, tach, rubber mat, electrical supplies, and a couple cars for my son who happened to be with me for a couple visits. i get a 10% discount for being in the navy too. the little stuff adds up real quick.

Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:27 pm

kingodirtp3 wrote: i talked to the guy i got the decklid from, it seems that there are 2 different decklids for the 66-67,

next time you talk to him wear hip boots and big a box to stand on. 66/67 are same engine lid. the rear hatch is what is diffrent. he probably sold you a 65 and earlier engine lid.

Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:54 pm

i talked to him, he sent me a latch that worked with my 67 apron so it's all good. it fit perfectly

Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:19 am

pics coming very soon. engine is back together though the tranny drum to drum is still grungy and sitting on my garage floor till the morning. a friend will come help me move it so i can clean and disasemble it.
put the bedliner on the bus floor tonight, strong fumes!
i think i over torqued my head bolts but i may be using the torque wrench wrong. am i supposed to tighten with a normal ratchet until it gets little hard to turn then switch to the torque wrench or tighten with the ratchet then use the torque wrench?
i found the throttle cable hole on the FI fan shroud, glad i dont have to drill a hole in the fanshroud. i thought the hole was for the spark plug wire holders. now i just have to drill a small hole in the front tin.
i have one more coat of bedliner to put down after i get the tranny clean tomorrow.
i also have to grind the single port manifolds for the ICTs down a bit at the base. they are squeezing some of the tin and the valve cover.
i used newer car interior plastic rivets to plug some holes in the floor. i just need to cut up the road sign and rivet/seal them over the rust holes for now.
afetr i get the tranny clean the gas tank is coming out to get cleaned and painted.
then the whole engine compartment gets a good cleaning, no painting since the original color seems to still be under the dirt and in very nice shape. just some undercoating on the panels that lead to the interior.
can't wait to be done with the rear. the front will be so much easier!

Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:47 pm

got more cleaning on the tranny done. probably 20lbs in grime and grease on it! here's some numbers form thje tranny, not sure what they mean yet. 11330117313, 211.301.211 6, 34 113.301.103 C, then this stamped number 9296841.
from the inside of the bus i got 130,
425 081 114 139,
US 2812 4344 837 042179.
the engine had B6109085