| 73SBeetle |
Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:52 am |
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this pics are from the last week.
we get a special delivery.
it's indluded:
-Gearone front disc brakes with 4 piston caliper.
-empi rear disc brakes.
-cnc brakes pedal with double master cylinder.
-cnc clutch pedal with slave.
-cnc gas pedal.
-coil over spring plates with heims.
Ido. |
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| Ed Carp |
Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:44 pm |
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| very nice work my friend! you and your friends should be proud of what you have accomplished. i am sure your friend is somewhere with a huge :D on his face. |
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| Green bug Guy |
Mon Dec 08, 2008 2:48 am |
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| that is turning out great!!! with those kinds of parts your bug will be un stopable!!!! looks good!!! your not going cheep eather!!! thats awsome!!!! |
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| CopperBaja |
Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:16 am |
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You can also get adapter plates here:
http://www.heckermachine.com/ |
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| 73SBeetle |
Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:42 pm |
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yesterday i'm assembled the rear disc brakes.
i had a little problem because the caliper brackets doesn't fitt to the 3x3 arms, so i had to notch the arms to clear off enough space to the brackets.
after the notching I closed the hole with welding a piece of metal and checked that is sealed water to come into the arms.
some pics from my work.
your coments?
Ido. |
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| neonrick |
Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:09 pm |
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| Very nice!! |
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| veedub4life |
Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:49 pm |
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| great build!! looks like a lot of fun!! |
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| GhiaBateman |
Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:24 am |
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VERY NICE!!! and what a great reason to build it, I'm sure Sasha would be (and is) loving it... Now, you guys should bend up a thinner piece of metal to go in the area of the rear arm where you cut out for the bracket of the brakes.
the metal looks thick enough that this hole is not a serious weak spot, BUT you should make something up to fill the hole, just so Sand and such doesn't get in.
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| neanders |
Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:00 am |
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| couldn't you just take the piece that was cut out, flip it around, and weld it back in? Then a couple small pieced to close up the end and you'd be good. Just a thought... |
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| Germanpride |
Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:03 am |
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| If you read above, the hole has already been filled. |
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| 73SBeetle |
Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:00 pm |
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like germanpride says, the hole is totaly feeld.
Ido. |
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| 73SBeetle |
Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:38 pm |
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ok guys, need your advices.
today i took the pedals to some checks on the baja.
the pedals should be mounted to the floor pan, but because we got the subaru gas pedal, and the gas pedal coming from the top we're decided to up side down the brake and the clutch pedals and to mount them to the top as the gas pedal.
i cut the metal to clearens some space to the pedals and tried to make a space between the clutch and the brake padel to make the steering shaft place to pass. but it's to crowded and i'm give up and want to pass the steering shaft in the right of the gas pedal (above the tunnel).
is it possible?
as i know there is one longer and one shorter shaft to the steering, i'm meen to connect the shorter to the steering wheel and to turn it above of the tunnel.
some pics
thank's
Ido
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| GhiaBateman |
Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:31 pm |
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Ido,
First, about my last post... I would not have sounded so dumb if I had read what you posted and not just looked at the pictures,
I think your going to have to spend more money... looks like a rack and pinion is the best way to solve the issue.
I hope you understand what I'm saying, here are some pictures for you.
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| TIMMA |
Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:41 pm |
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Wow, looks good. One thing i noticed is that you will want to weld up the studs that go through the rear frame horns for the middle transmission strap.
You will also want to tie the roll cage into those frame horns for support, especially with the added weight of the Subaru engine. The rear engine cage will help with this too.
Keep up the good work.
--Tim |
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| 73SBeetle |
Thu Dec 11, 2008 12:26 am |
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GhiaBateman wrote: Ido,
First, about my last post... I would not have sounded so dumb if I had read what you posted and not just looked at the pictures,
I think your going to have to spend more money... looks like a rack and pinion is the best way to solve the issue.
I hope you understand what I'm saying, here are some pictures for you.
Hi GhiaBateman,
i'm got what you saying. i allready bought saco rack and pinion (pic add).
but my question is, if it's possible to assembly the longer shaft to the saco rack and the shorter shaft to the steering wheel (and of course U-joint between the shafts) ?? or just the longer in the steering wheel side and shorter in the rack side??
our rack
TIMMA wrote: Wow, looks good. One thing i noticed is that you will want to weld up the studs that go through the rear frame horns for the middle transmission strap.
You will also want to tie the roll cage into those frame horns for support, especially with the added weight of the Subaru engine. The rear engine cage will help with this too.
Keep up the good work.
--Tim
thank's Tim, now i'm going to do some work on the project, i will weld to bolts of the strap, about the frame horns, the tubes are already sent to bending :wink:
thank's again for the suggestions, it's helps a lot.
Ido |
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| GhiaBateman |
Thu Dec 11, 2008 6:30 am |
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Ido,
I get what your saying, BUT if you made the shaft coming off the rack longer, your u-joints would be running very close to their limit, at a certain point U-joints don't spin around very smooth, you would need to use a triple joint to make up for the extreme angle... (they make triple joints for socket wrenches) So maybe if you get the steering wheel into the cabin as far as it would be safe and made the shaft off the steering wheel short as possible, maybe you'll clear the MCs
the red line shows what I'm (you're) saying...
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| 73SBeetle |
Thu Dec 11, 2008 12:57 pm |
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GhiaBateman wrote: Ido,
I get what your saying, BUT if you made the shaft coming off the rack longer, your u-joints would be running very close to their limit, at a certain point U-joints don't spin around very smooth, you would need to use a triple joint to make up for the extreme angle... (they make triple joints for socket wrenches) So maybe if you get the steering wheel into the cabin as far as it would be safe and made the shaft off the steering wheel short as possible, maybe you'll clear the MCs
the red line shows what I'm (you're) saying...
ok, i got it. thank's for the great expllenation.
today i mounted the pedals and check the spaces between them.
as now i'm think to pass the steering shaft above the gas pedal.
Ido. |
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| 73SBeetle |
Wed Dec 17, 2008 12:47 pm |
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today i'm started to make a cover that will close the hole of the pedals.
Ido.
:lol: |
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| TIMMA |
Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:42 pm |
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73SBeetle wrote: today i'm started to make a cover that will close the hole of the pedals.
Ido.
:lol:
Hey, just be careful welding -- that steel looks like it is galvanized (Zinc coated). It does produce some dangerous fumes when welded, so make sure to have good ventilation.
--Tim |
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| type2vw |
Fri Dec 19, 2008 4:08 am |
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| Hi Ido. Great job on the build. I can't wait to see pictures of that flying over the dunes. Great way to pay tribute to a fallen friend. |
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