TheSamba.com :: View topic - weber 34 ICT q's read all 300 search results!!

Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:24 pm

well, lets see. i came across a pretty complete pair of ICT's (need to get some manifolds) and have a couple questions. first, will i need to get a fuel pressure regulator? i am running the 'stock' mechanical pump (i have not tested output psi yet) i understand that they like low fuel pressure. i have the hex bar linkage, heim joints are tight (looks like hell, so don't mind the current appearance) is this a pretty good setup, or should i get something better? lastly, the carbs seem to be 'stock' with all the jets being what they were leaving the weber factory.

jets as followed:

air correction 160
idle .52
main 130

after reading, looks like i should get 57-60 idle jets, and a 140 main. the 160 air correction seems to be about right. sound good?

while i need to order manifolds,but i like the CB setup, looks like it has everything i need. (now that i think of it, my linkage won't work) the carbs are going on a Boston Bob 1600 that he built for my 71 westy, so the engine is not over the top but a 'warmed over' BB 1600 (head work, stock cam etc) i am located in CT, so i shouldn't have any weird sea level jetting problems. also have a single QP exhaust

and for you guys running them, which manifolds do you prefer, and which manifold-to-head gaskets do you like, steel or fiber/paper?

also noticed that the vac ports are not drilled (even though they are hooked up. i am running a SVDA dizzy. should i get a different dizzy, or drill both ports out? or talk to Glenn? (you can see a portion that you can drill. i will post pix soon)

pix of carb

i wasn't a huge fan of this PO mod, but looks like it may work out
:D

Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:49 pm

You will need either a regulator or to use gaskets to adjust the pressure of the pump. I prefer at low pressures to use a regulator, and there are some that suck and some that do ok.. none of the twist cap dial regulators are worth having, and the best one for the money to me is the Holley one, 1-4 psi, and a little direct mount fuel pressure gauge 0-15 psi they usually come. Mallory is a good regulator as well. Aircooled.net has them.

Linkage sounds fine as long as it works well. Remember that if you use return springs, they generally do not need to be on the carbs..they tend to need to be on the linkage to some other point, like from the accelerator cable barrel clamp to some point to act as a return. If you need extra returns on the carbs, make them light. Just enough to return the carbs definitively when unconnected to the linkage.

CB's kit (intake, cleaners, linkage, etc.) for those is probably the best kit out there for the money too.. get it all from them for the ICTs.

The vacum advance ports stick out of the throttle body base section. Vacuum ports that you would connect a balance tube between must exist in the intake manifolds. If they are not set up for balance tube, see how well you do without them.

Those two look might different. Bet they could use a good cleaning.

Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:33 pm

thank you sir. so, the vac ports on the carb should be 'T' together then to to the svda, correct? as far as jet selection, when i set up my 2 strokes, i used a formula that i found that basically goes like this:

venturi diameter (mm) X 4.2= main jet size

so, in my case, i have 34 ICT's with a venturi of 29mm. so, 29 X 4.2=121.8. the closest i can get is a 120 or 125 main jet. so, my guess would be the carbs 'standard issue' jet of 130 may be a bit too fat

FWIW, i have yet to be let down using that formula with 2 strokes. run one of them lean and it's all over.

i am not a big fan of throwing stuff on and hoping it will work, so bear with me. trying to do as much homework as possible

i will be perfectly honest, i have yet to rejet a 4 stroke, so if this sounds too low of a main for a stock 1600, please, let me know!

on a side note, will a stock mechanical pump provide the volume i need?

and good eyes. i did give the one on the left a once over :wink:

Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:56 pm

Yeah, you can T them or just connect the left one.

About 57-60 idle, and 130-135 main is pretty standard for those carbs.

Stock pumps can flow plenty of fuel for even big engines, so I wouldn't worry about that.

Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:01 am

good deal. thanks for the input. i will order some idle jets. for what its worth, what is a good sync tool? i had a uni syn when i had my squareback, but gave it to the guy who bought it. also, the info on how to set the floats has me a bit confused. i will post a picture on how i think they need to be set, so we can see if i am on the right track. thanks again mharney :D

Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:07 am

I'm not a fan of unisyn gauges, but the ICT is one model it will work ok with. The tool of choice (because it works well with all models with the right adaptation) is the synchrometer (snail version).

Using one of these requires an adaptor on the 34ICT. I suggest finding a small tapered plastic cup with one end the right size to just cone over the top of the carb body, and the other side cut to just let the synchrometer base rest inside it when set on top.

Other models can use similar things, or other solutions will work. you can get some PVC and some test caps, and cut holes in the caps to match the carb and the synch tool, etc.

Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:43 pm

skills@eurocarsplus wrote: the info on how to set the floats has me a bit confused. i will post a picture on how i think they need to be set, so we can see if i am on the right track. thanks again mharney :D

ok, so if i read the info right, float height should be set like what is in the picture, to 6mm with the gasket on the carb top, and the ball in the needle NOT compressed, correct? (seems like a pain in the nuts)

Sat Aug 04, 2012 6:18 pm

You're on the right track. You need to have the gasket on there when making your measurement.

Apparently float heights and jettings are like bellybuttons, everyone has one. Personally I went with 5.5mm float height, followed by 180 air, a 140 main, and a 55 idle.

I'm at 500ish feet in Portland, OR and it seems to do just dandy. Really woke my 71 bus up.

I tapped the intake manifolds to provide vacuum for the brake booster and as a balance tube. Which really helps with the idle, just make sure to pinch it off when balancing. The vacuum port off the carb on driver side I used to connect my 205s SVDA, and capped the other one.

Hope this helps you

Sat Aug 04, 2012 6:20 pm

And I just noticed how incredibly old your last post was. So maybe this will help someone else trying to set up some ict/epc's :oops:

Sat Aug 04, 2012 6:21 pm

:shock:

had it figured out 3 years ago. but thanks

Sat Aug 04, 2012 7:20 pm

skills@eurocarsplus wrote: :shock: had it figured out 3 years ago. but thanks
:lol: =D>