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Ojai63dbl Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:15 pm

What is the difference in a ROSS vs an ATE Steering box for a split window bus



My 63 has an ATE, while the Single cab I pulled the fronte end off of today has a ROSS

The 66 bus in the yard has an ATE

They are ddefinetely ifferent in deisgn (as noted in Bentley), but is one perferred, better, or one easier to rebuild?

last query

did steering boxes change between 1962 and 1967? - or can they interchange regardelss of year

Lind Mon Jan 05, 2009 7:25 am

I have not seen any ross steering boxes. in my experience, about 90% of steering boxes are ZF units, and about 10% are ATE units. nobody seems to rebuild the ATE units. I have seen ATE in '61-'67 buses. I think that they were just a different supplier for the same part, so there is no rhyme or reason to why a bus would have one or the other.

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:52 am

Ok....I'm wondering if I have a ROSS (pictured int he series below)? Stupid question since on the side of the steering box body it is stamped "ROSS", but right above it I believe....believe....it says "Ate" written in script print, very hard to make out what it actually says....but it looks like an A-t-e stamped into the body using "Script" print....

First question is, can someone verify that this is a ROSS....steering box?

Second question is ( I have pics posted)...the bottom plate ground (scraped) off? or is this how this style of steering box was originally manufactured? Is this an OG steering box or after market, since there is no "VW" stamp anywhere?

My 1963 Double Door Panel van was shipped through San Francisco. Everyone I talked to through a forum says that the bottom plate has been ground off. But in studying it up close, I cannot figure out how there was a bottom plate on there at any time. It appears to have been manufactured with ONLY 2 bolts instead of 4 bolts (as indicated in the Manual). The bolt heads have been ground down to the thickness of a dime, but I'm trying to figure out how the two bolts and bolt heads are still there with out the bottom plate? Or does this style NOT have a bottom plate? Do the ROSS steeringboxes have a bottom plate? Is my plate just ground all the way off?

Third question...I have looked at the Bentley Manual several times, I find no mention of a ROSS steering boxes and no pictures referring to or showing the ROSS style box in the manual...what is this?



So what kind of steering box do I have? Is it totally scraped out and ground to hell, or do you still think it is good to go? There doesn't seem to be any steering issues. Not great but I've seen worse "play" in the steeringwheel.

These are pics of the steering box in my bus. The last one if from the Samba gallery, which I believe to be an accurate represntation of the Bentley manual style steering box, which is different than mine.

Please help me to clarify....










This is a steering box that I copied over from the gallery, this is the kind of Steering Box that I see depicted in my Bentley manual. Very different than what I see on my bus.


hazetguy Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:00 am

you have an ATE box, and that's how the bottom looks (aside from the scraping damage).

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:22 am

hazetguy wrote: you have an ATE box, and that's how the bottom looks (aside from the scraping damage).

THanks....so then there is NO MISSING PLATE? Correct?

If that is how it is suppose to look...then what the hell are the two bolts there for? What is their purpose? They hold nothing on...or do they?

So then I am correct in thinking that all I need to get is some new bolts...and a steering box protector and I am SAFE?

Or will I lose my steering on a socal freeway at 65 mph...and kablam!!!!!!

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:35 am

hazetguy wrote: you have an ATE box, and that's how the bottom looks (aside from the scraping damage).

Eric, told me over on the SV2 site that you manufacture the notched out frame sections for raising the box....right?

In your opinion how bad does this box look? It appears to operate normally, and is not that loose at all....what could potentially go wrong from just scrapping...?

Also can I just get 2 new bolts and roll this steering box with a protector plate?

So you make the plates also?

Culito Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:51 am

Hard to tell, but I think that bottom pic is what your box looked like before the entire bottom got ground off.
I'd get a new box for safety's sake, and use something to protect it, or raise it up.

hazetguy Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:22 pm

Culito wrote: Hard to tell, but I think that bottom pic is what your box looked like before the entire bottom got ground off.


:roll:

NO, that is how the bottom of an ATE box looks (aside from the scraping damage). how can i be more clear?

the two bolts hold the clamp strap for the horn wire.

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:26 pm

hazetguy wrote: Culito wrote: Hard to tell, but I think that bottom pic is what your box looked like before the entire bottom got ground off.


:roll:

NO, that is how the bottom of an ATE box looks (aside from the scraping damage). how can i be more clear?

the two bolts hold the clamp strap for the horn wire.

It's been clear....you are CLEAR.....yup! You can see though there is alot of unclarity out there regarding this issue...

Thanks...and it has been verified!!!! You da man!

GLHTurbo Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:27 pm

Aren't ATE and Ross one in the same. My box in my '67 says ATE ROSS.

hazetguy Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:14 pm

i was more responding to culito about the bottom of the box.


here is what the bottom of an ATE box looks like, notice the clamp strap for the horn wire.

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:17 pm

Yes! Someone posted a pic somewhere, I will find it....brand spankin new box...with the Ross & ATE stamps clear as day.....so....yup!

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:27 pm

perfect pic....Hazetguy

Hudman told me that you rebuild them....how much for a rebuild? with a core?

Do you make protector plates as well?

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:31 pm

here is the pic....

yes....ATE = Ross


tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:35 pm

Hazetguy?

With the ATE box...if the gear oil is leaking out the hole...what are the "COMMON" causes? How difficult are they to fix, having never worked on a box?

Would you suggest what most guys have sugested which is to use lithium bearing grease instead of gear oil?

oldschool64bus Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:27 pm

tnc19 wrote: hazetguy wrote: you have an ATE box, and that's how the bottom looks (aside from the scraping damage).

what could potentially go wrong from just scrapping...?



depending on how low your bus is this can happen like mine :lol:



tnc19 wrote: Hazetguy?

With the ATE box...if the gear oil is leaking out the hole...what are the "COMMON" causes? How difficult are they to fix, having never worked on a box?

Would you suggest what most guys have sugested which is to use lithium bearing grease instead of gear oil?


it shouldnt be leaking from the hole, thats just where the horn wire runs through up to the wheel

hazetguy Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:36 pm

oldschool64bus wrote:
tnc19 wrote: With the ATE box...if the gear oil is leaking out the hole...what are the "COMMON" causes? How difficult are they to fix, having never worked on a box?
it shouldnt be leaking from the hole, thats just where the horn wire runs through up to the wheel

i don't see how it could leak from that hole. as mentioned, that hole is solely for the horn wire. it if is leaking from there, your box would have to be overfilled, as the metal tube that leads to that hole sticks way past the top of the steering box and the fill hole. i guess it is possible for that metal tube to crack or come loose from the bottom of the housing, but i would think that would have to be from internal damage, and yours is not scraped past a point that would effect that externally.

you can see the internal metal pipe in the pic of the ATE casing below.

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:39 pm

oldschool64bus wrote: tnc19 wrote: hazetguy wrote: you have an ATE box, and that's how the bottom looks (aside from the scraping damage).

what could potentially go wrong from just scrapping...?



depending on how low your bus is this can happen like mine :lol:



tnc19 wrote: Hazetguy?

With the ATE box...if the gear oil is leaking out the hole...what are the "COMMON" causes? How difficult are they to fix, having never worked on a box?

Would you suggest what most guys have sugested which is to use lithium bearing grease instead of gear oil?


it shouldnt be leaking from the hole, thats just where the horn wire runs through up to the wheel


Wow!!! Fo-riz-el? That is crazy....that's way low!!! Is that box still operable?


Ok...honestly, my bus is up on jacks right now. The box has been full cleaned, and I assumed run dry, because it isn't leaking right now. Before I cleaned and degreased it, the whole bottom side was gunked up with dirt, grease, and grime. sides too. So where should I look for leaks? Break down the 411, I just want to make sure the thing is properly lubed, doesn't leak too bad, and operates correctly and safely....

I don't know what the PO did....just want to be safe, ultimately.

tnc19 Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:44 pm

hazetguy wrote: oldschool64bus wrote:
tnc19 wrote: With the ATE box...if the gear oil is leaking out the hole...what are the "COMMON" causes? How difficult are they to fix, having never worked on a box?
it shouldnt be leaking from the hole, thats just where the horn wire runs through up to the wheel

i don't see how it could leak from that hole. as mentioned, that hole is solely for the horn wire. it if is leaking from there, your box would have to be overfilled, as the metal tube that leads to that hole sticks way past the top of the steering box and the fill hole. i guess it is possible for that metal tube to crack or come loose from the bottom of the housing, but i would think that would have to be from internal damage, and yours is not scraped past a point that would effect that externally.

you can see the internal metal pipe in the pic of the ATE casing below.


So if it MOST likelyisn't from the "hole" or a cracked tube, then it probably was from one of the gaskets....what do you think? It would drip alot...Like I park it, and the next day, like a puddle the size of a diamete of a coffee cup would be there....

Its not leaking now, because I'm sure its empty....thoughts?

oldschool64bus Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:46 pm

tnc19 wrote: oldschool64bus wrote: tnc19 wrote: hazetguy wrote: you have an ATE box, and that's how the bottom looks (aside from the scraping damage).

what could potentially go wrong from just scrapping...?



depending on how low your bus is this can happen like mine :lol:



tnc19 wrote: Hazetguy?

With the ATE box...if the gear oil is leaking out the hole...what are the "COMMON" causes? How difficult are they to fix, having never worked on a box?

Would you suggest what most guys have sugested which is to use lithium bearing grease instead of gear oil?


it shouldnt be leaking from the hole, thats just where the horn wire runs through up to the wheel


Wow!!! Fo-riz-el? That is crazy....that's way low!!! Is that box still operable?


Ok...honestly, my bus is up on jacks right now. The box has been full cleaned, and I assumed run dry, because it isn't leaking right now. Before I cleaned and degreased it, the whole bottom side was gunked up with dirt, grease, and grime. sides too. So where should I look for leaks? Break down the 411, I just want to make sure the thing is properly lubed, doesn't leak too bad, and operates correctly and safely....

I don't know what the PO did....just want to be safe, ultimately.

still works, really would like to replace it now that its raised though. Id be willing to bet its probably not leaking, more like its just never been really cleaned before. When I first got my bus I had no idea the hole for the wire was even there, had to use an ice pick to clean the damn thing out


ok scratch that idea lol we must have posted at the same time and I didnt see the part about puddles



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