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Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:31 am

ddwbeagles wrote: Great job on the resto and I'm impressed with your wisdom/skill at such an early age (i.e. taking your time to make it safe before rushing it, then regretting it). Anyway I wasn't sure whether you were pricing the resistor block or the fuel injectors themselves. If it's the injectors, your can get new Bosche for about $80 bucks each or rebuilt for half that price.
http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=380114

Thanks! I'm 22 and have been wrenching on cars since I was 15, and on ATV's and such before that. I have experience painting because my grandfather owns a body shop and I have painted vehicles before.

I need to test the injector on the cylinder that is not firing at some point, before I decide if it's faulty... But, I know I need the resistor block first so that will come first. I can't really test the injector at this time because of the faulty resistor block. So yes, I was referring to the resistor block.

I am planning on sending out all of my injectors to Cruizin Performance at some point to have them all tested / rebuilt if necessary before I get it on the road.

Mitch

Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:38 am

If you hook up 12 volt power to the injector is will burn out in about 10 seconds or less so don't do that.

Suggestion:

Take all 4 of those injectors and the cold start valve and send them all off to this guy for cleaning and calibration via basic priority mail in a zip lock bag. Tell him that you also want the new hoses and injector seals even if it costs more. He will take about a week or so to do them. ~ $100 to do them all.

www.cruzinperformance.com

He has done a bunch of them for me over the years and it is really money well spent.

At least you will know those are all good and spraying correctly. Injectors, fuel tanks, hoses, the metal fuel rail, pumps and fuel pressure regulators do not like to have old dead gas in there for very long. They like to mung up on you.

Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:47 am

Randy in Maine wrote: If you hook up 12 volt power to the injector is will burn out in about 10 seconds or less so don't do that.

Suggestion:

Take all 4 of those injectors and the cold start valve and send them all off to this guy for cleaning and calibration via basic priority mail in a zip lock bag. Tell him that you also want the new hoses and injector seals even if it costs more. He will take about a week or so to do them. ~ $100 to do them all.

www.cruzinperformance.com

He has done a bunch of them for me over the years and it is really money well spent.

At least you will know those are all good and spraying correctly. Injectors, fuel tanks, hoses, the metal fuel rail, pumps and fuel pressure regulators do not like to have old dead gas in there for very long. They like to mung up on you.

I would have tested the injector however the Bentley told me to. Where did you get the idea that I was going to hook up 12v to it? :lol:

As stated above, I will be sending them to Cruizin Performance at some point to have them all tested/cleaned. I will also send the Cold Start Valve, hadn't thought of that and didn't know they could test them, good idea!

I have pulled the fuel tank, cleaned it (It was super clean, no rust at all), it has all new fuel lines, clamps, filter, and such (Germansupply kit), new injector hoses and rubber 0-ring seals installed. The fuel that is in the Bus now is brand new and had been stabilized for winter. the Bus stays inside of a big Morton building in the wintertime.

I also have a new fuel pump that I will be installing at some point. The one that is on it is making a bunch of racket at the moment, i need to check the fuel filter for junk and check to see if i'm actually getting 12V to the fuel pump.

Don't know if I mentioned it earlier or not, I also have installed a rebuilt alternator, rebuilt Bosch starter with new solenoid, and I replaced all of the battery wires/ground wires/all new wires to the starter, alternator, etc..

Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:17 am

No you are doing all right.

Now is certainly the time to make sure theat fuel delivery system is 100%. Nice clean and resealed tank, cleaned injectors, new hoses, and so forth.

I just did not want to see you (or someone else reading this thread later) ruin an injector if you decided to "test" it that way.

Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:38 pm

Well, not much progress lately. Am hoping to work on her some more over my holiday break.

I got my Beetle up and running last weekend after being in hibernation for a year and a half. I have neglected it since I got the Bus :oops:

Anyone want to donate a resistor pack to the cause? :)

I'm thinking i'm going to sell the blue plaid Westy stool and childs cot that came with it to fund other things, like rebuilt fuel injectors.

Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:07 pm

dubluvv wrote:
I'm thinking i'm going to sell the blue plaid Westy stool and childs cot that came with it to fund other things, like rebuilt fuel injectors.

You will come to regret selling such sought-after items.

Why not sell the table and leg too? Come on, you know you don't really need it anyway :)

Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:17 pm

RIOMX wrote: dubluvv wrote:
I'm thinking i'm going to sell the blue plaid Westy stool and childs cot that came with it to fund other things, like rebuilt fuel injectors.

You will come to regret selling such sought-after items.

Why not sell the table and leg too? Come on, you know you don't really need it anyway :)

Because they are from a '74.

Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:49 pm

dubluvv wrote:

Because they are from a '74.

Sweet. Sell that useless, year-incorrect crap!

Mon Feb 01, 2010 10:48 am

Well, the Bus has been in hibernation for the last few months. I have managed to get a little bit done though.

-Installed new fuel pump and tested fuel pressure, steady 30PSI at idle, about 33 PSI @ 3000RPM.

-Replaced sink switch and plastic feed line to faucet. Drained water tank & cleaned. Thought the pump was bad but it turns out that the wiring to the switch was hooked up incorrectly, figured some stuff out with my multimeter, put in a new switch and the sunk works beautifully now.

On the immediate agenda:
-Replace, or hopefully fix Resistor Pack for FI since one of the wires is broken off, causing the Bus to run on 3 cylinders.

-Install front transmission limiting stop, discovered it was missing and this explained why the Bus shook like a mother when in gear over 20mph.

-Possibly pull motor to fix oil leak. Have not dived in to find out where it's coming from yet, but it leaks more now than it did before I pulled it and replaced all of the seals.

-Change out all shifter bushings, have the kit just haven't done it yet.

-Check/replace wheel bearings, possibly CV boots, but they look pretty good.

-Check/Replace brakes as necessary, will definitely be doing hoses and a fluid flush at the very least. Pads look pretty good in the front, and brakes are strong.

-Hook up brake booster, have not been able to hook it up yet without a crazy vacuum leak, so it is currently plugged up so I can run/move it around.

I'm currently looking for a job while attending classes full time, so don't expect any updates for awhile :lol:

Sat Mar 13, 2010 6:10 pm

dubluvv wrote: Well, the Bus has been in hibernation for the last few months. I have managed to get a little bit done though.

-Installed new fuel pump and tested fuel pressure, steady 30PSI at idle, about 33 PSI @ 3000RPM.

-Replaced sink switch and plastic feed line to faucet. Drained water tank & cleaned. Thought the pump was bad but it turns out that the wiring to the switch was hooked up incorrectly, figured some stuff out with my multimeter, put in a new switch and the sunk works beautifully now.

On the immediate agenda:
-Replace, or hopefully fix Resistor Pack for FI since one of the wires is broken off, causing the Bus to run on 3 cylinders.

-Install front transmission limiting stop, discovered it was missing and this explained why the Bus shook like a mother when in gear over 20mph.

-Possibly pull motor to fix oil leak. Have not dived in to find out where it's coming from yet, but it leaks more now than it did before I pulled it and replaced all of the seals.

-Change out all shifter bushings, have the kit just haven't done it yet.

-Check/replace wheel bearings, possibly CV boots, but they look pretty good.

-Check/Replace brakes as necessary, will definitely be doing hoses and a fluid flush at the very least. Pads look pretty good in the front, and brakes are strong.

-Hook up brake booster, have not been able to hook it up yet without a crazy vacuum leak, so it is currently plugged up so I can run/move it around.

I'm currently looking for a job while attending classes full time, so don't expect any updates for awhile :lol:

I got the two items in bold completed over spring break. the Bus is running GREAT now!

I also did some troubleshooting, discovered that my thermo-time switch is completely dead and does not send a signal at all to the Cold Start Valve to operate. I ended up rigging it (for now). I tested the CSV per Bentley and found it worked fine when jumped, so I simply ran a wire to the front of the Bus and hooked the CSV up to a small switch. Now, I start cranking the Bus, flip the switch and it fires right up, them switch off the switch. It's temporary. The Bus would not start at all without a sniff of starter fluid prior to this.

I took the Bus for it's first real drive since 2005. Drove it around town for 10-15 minutes and got it up to 50-55 mph, it runs & drives so nicely. Suspension feels great and brakes work well, but are a little hard to operate since i'm still sorting out the booster line, so no power brakes.

Does anyone know of an alternative type of booster line that I could use other than the OEM one? I need to replace the one that goes from just outside of the firewall to the engine (the one with the check-valve). I have the vacuum tee that this line goes into duct-taped off at the moment, and that's not ideal :)

Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:14 pm

Why not take the line that you have down to a Ace, Home Depot, Lowes, or whatever type hardware/home improvement store that you have up there and try to match it inside and outside diameter. I don't think there is any requirement for it to be rigid or non see through. Be creative.

Sun Mar 14, 2010 7:42 am

RocketRod wrote: Why not take the line that you have down to a Ace, Home Depot, Lowes, or whatever type hardware/home improvement store that you have up there and try to match it inside and outside diameter. I don't think there is any requirement for it to be rigid or non see through. Be creative.

Problem is, I don't have the original line, it was missing when I bought the Bus. I think it needs to be reinforced, I believe I remember reading somewhere that it will collapse under vacuum if not the reinforced type like the original.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:02 pm

Compression test results are in! Readings were taken with engine warm.

#1: 120
#2: 125
#3: 120
#4: 115

These were averages, I did 3 readings on each cylinder.

Thoughts?

Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:04 pm

dubluvv wrote: Compression test results are in! Readings were taken with engine warm.

#1: 120
#2: 125
#3: 120
#4: 115

These were averages, I did 3 readings on each cylinder.

Thoughts?
not bad. not too much variance. run with it. check it again in a few months and compare with your current readings

Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:39 pm

Also added a voltmeter to the drivers cabin:

Existing Oil Pressure and Oil Temp:

Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:00 pm

dubluvv wrote:
-Stool is out of another year Westy, correct?

It looks like the '74 color scheme.

Sun Aug 08, 2010 6:16 pm

Well, finally getting around to the bodywork. All problem areas have been filled and I have about 3/4 of the Bus in primer.

It took a good 8 hours to get the slider straightened out and the area directly behind it. It has been hit in the past and repaired with AT LEAST a gallon of filler (not kidding)

Next weekend I will be spraying the color, L20A Marino Yellow. Decided to go single stage as well.

Sorry, only one crappy cell phone pic of the progress

Mon Oct 04, 2010 6:49 pm

Well, finally got all of the prep work done and all of the Bus in primer. Seemed like eeons of block sanding! Sprayed the L20A Single Stage a few weeks ago. I am very impressed with it. No orange peel at all and it covered very well.

Still need to spray grille and slider cover, then eventually do bumpers, top and wheels. But, for now, I am very happy!

Mitch

Mon Oct 04, 2010 6:52 pm

Looks great. What a difference a fresh coat of paint can make.

Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:12 pm

M-Plate Decoded:

http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN&id=4903