obieoberstar |
Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:56 pm |
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first time here on the Vanagon forums. hello.
i'm rebuilding my first waterboxer. my Bentley manual refers to 'D3 sealing compound' in its illustrations. then, in the text it mentions that it has been superseded by AMV 188 000 02.
so what to use?
i'm very familiar with aircooled engines and have used Loctite 574 on all my case halves with great success.
i just want to get the scoop from the people who know.
any links to rebuilds would be great too.
thanks.
mike |
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Terry Kay |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 12:05 am |
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Seek this engine sealing adhesive, at any GM parts counter.
It's the best that you can buy for what your going to do. |
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tencentlife |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:58 am |
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And after that commercial interlude, back to our regular programming:
obieoberstar, welcome to the Samba! Which gasket set do you have? |
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Terry Kay |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:16 am |
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No Commercial's.
No Interludes.
It is what it is. |
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obieoberstar |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:50 am |
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i have the Elring gasket set. the kits came with 2 unmarked white tubes with some some form of sealant in them.
i have picked up some D 000 400 from the VW dealer for sealing the rubber gasket to the cylinder head. |
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tencentlife |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:09 am |
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That's good. Make sure to use sealant on both sides of the water jacket channel seal; put a very thin bead of sealant directly on the end face of the water jacket, fit up the channel seal, and then apply another bead on the flat face of the seal just like it shows in Bentley.
Use the yellow goo in the white tubes under the head nuts. If you're reusing old head nuts, dress the nut flanges on some medium emery over a flat surface, use lots of WD40 and polish them in a circular motion until you have at least 2/3 of the flange surface fresh. That will ensure that there is enough good flat sealing area on the bottom of the nuts.
You should also chase out the threads of all the head nuts with a tap, M10x1.5, to remove old dried sealant and dirt, so you'll get consistent torque values from them. Blow out the threads and clean them with Brakleen or some fast-drying solvent and blow out again. Also chase the head stud threads with a die and blow clean. Put a drop of light oil on the threads of each stud.
When you apply the yellow goo, it should just go around the flat flange of each nut, avoiding getting it on the threads. |
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Alan Brase |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:22 am |
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tencentlife wrote:
When you apply the yellow goo, it should just go around the flat flange of each nut, avoiding getting it on the threads.
I'm a bit surprised about that. No need or reason to seal the threads? (I learn something new every once in a while if I try to keep my mind open!)
Al |
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obieoberstar |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:31 am |
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thanks for the tips. good things to know.
as for the case half sealant, i should be ok using the Loctite 574? it is simply sealing the halves of the case just like an aircooled.
one more question. is there an o-ring behind the front pulley? looks like one in the Bentley. the reason i ask is because i received this project in boxes and baggies. |
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tencentlife |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:45 am |
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69doublecab wrote: tencentlife wrote:
When you apply the yellow goo, it should just go around the flat flange of each nut, avoiding getting it on the threads.
I'm a bit surprised about that. No need or reason to seal the threads? (I learn something new every once in a while if I try to keep my mind open!)
Al
The purpose of the sealant is to keep coolant from seeping out under the nuts, since it's pressurised coolant on the other side. No matter what you do it's going to squeeze in both directions, so it will get into the base of the threads. But you want to avoid that until the nuts are run down and applying pressure, so that when you torque them you're doing it on clean oiled threads. There are 8 nuts per side, and you want them all to be pulling the same. Careful handling is how you get there.
Quote: as for the case half sealant, i should be ok using the Loctite 574? it is simply sealing the halves of the case just like an aircooled.
one more question. is there an o-ring behind the front pulley? looks like one in the Bentley.
Yes, it's the same as joining the case halves on an aircooled, so whatever your favorite is for that, it'll work here. I like the Reinzosil that comes in the Reinz gasket set, I use it all over the engine and it has never ever let me down; that's why I asked which set you had. I did like the old Dirko that came in the Elring sets, but it's been "reformulated" and now stinks like RTV, so I'm suspicious and haven't used that stuff on anything yet (I have several brand-new tubes if anyone wants them).
There is a big fat o-ring behind the pulley hub, to seal it to the nose of the crank so oil doesn't seep out the hub. They're reusable several times, but were only a dealer item until just a couple weeks ago. Now Vancafe has them:
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/smartlist_697/crank_pulley_seal.html |
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obieoberstar |
Wed Mar 04, 2009 10:14 am |
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thanks for all the input. just some differences compared to the aircooled. |
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