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Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:50 am

Just in case you were thinking you could hold off on replacing your fuel lines, I submit this picture of a once-beautiful Bay just down the street from me.

Change your fuel lines. Check your clamps.

Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:58 am

I found a couple of pics of one in my phone from a U-pull-it yard a few years back. Not the best pictures, but you get the point. This was a '90 Westy. Gruesome.

On a positive note, I was able to salvage the fuel pump, cabinet fasteners, a seatbelt, and some front brake parts...

Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:04 pm

joetiger wrote: I was able to salvage the fuel pump, cabinet fasteners, a seatbelt, and some front brake parts...

And the circle of life goes on.

Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:11 pm

The cool thing about the seat belt receiver is that it was a little bit charred but still works. I used it on my front passenger's seat when I installed a swivel base, because the original one was too tall.

Every time I look at it, with a portion of the orange button bubbled and burned, I think ENGINE FIRE! CHECK THE FUEL LINES!

A bit obsessive compulsive perhaps, but effective.

Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:13 pm

When I redo the fuel lines, they won't be next to the block! What a half assed design...

Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:23 pm

Ya, can anybody come up with a nicer, cleaner, less stressed layout for the lines than running under the plenum, any reason why they can't go on top? Can they be longer without any detrimental effect, to get a cleaner less strained set-up?

Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:24 pm

keithwwalker wrote: When I redo the fuel lines, they won't be next to the block! What a half assed design...

Or overtop of the exhaust line.

Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:35 pm

floggingmolly wrote: Or overtop of the exhaust line.

That's the problem, they always end up over the exhaust pipes. Problem with fires is that it is hard to tell where they start, but I suspect it is the little stub hoses that the fuel injectors plug into.

Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:35 pm

I've done some searching and still need to ask;

All my lines are new from the firewall to the engine. I removed the plastic connector at the firewall and triple clamped (fuel line clamp) the new rubber to the hard plastic line from the fuel pump.

Should have I replaced the hard line from the pump to the firewall? Are those prone to fail?

I would hate to have a fire when I thought I replaced the "problem lines" and misunderstood all of the lines that need replacing.

35psi fuel line hose is adequate?

Thanks Jeff

Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:02 pm

jrobewesty wrote: I've done some searching and still need to ask;

All my lines are new from the firewall to the engine. I removed the plastic connector at the firewall and triple clamped (fuel line clamp) the new rubber to the hard plastic line from the fuel pump.

Should have I replaced the hard line from the pump to the firewall? Are those prone to fail?

I would hate to have a fire when I thought I replaced the "problem lines" and misunderstood all of the lines that need replacing.

35psi fuel line hose is adequate?

Thanks Jeff

The plastic lines are usually okay. I did replace the plastic connector at the firewall with a brass connector since they do leak.

35psi may not be enough. Do NOT use the cloth-covered fuel hose. A 50psi hose with, say, a 200psi burst is probably better. The pump can spike 70psi. You do the math.

Tue Mar 10, 2009 3:06 pm

Quote: The plastic lines are usually okay. I did replace the plastic connector at the firewall with a brass connector since they do leak.

Could you give us some details about that connector, please?

Thank you!

Tue Mar 10, 2009 3:20 pm

You know, I just used a barbed brass fitting from Home Depot. Easy-peasy and it cost a buck.

Now that I think of it, why didn't I just run the hose right back to the plastic line and skip all the hoo-ha of using a fitting? Guh.

Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:32 pm

Quote: Now that I think of it, why didn't I just run the hose right back to the plastic line and skip all the hoo-ha of using a fitting? Guh.

I've also thought of this and wondered if you would use a rubber grommet through the firewall or somehow run it below?
Didn't the stock metal fitting come from earlier AC models?

Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:42 pm

I'll be changing my lines on Monday. Went to the local pipe shop and asked for fuel line, he had two versions: cloth-covered 20 bar (290psi) work, 60 bar (870psi) burst and metal covered 15 bar (217psi) work, 45 bar (652psi) burst. I chose the metal covered one, looks cool and still takes 3 times the required pressure. I don't know if you have shops like that in the us but it's worth a try.

Edit: added pressures in psi for you us people :wink:

Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:56 pm

Thank you for the picture and the response!

Supposedly, the firewall-mounted fitting was to prevent vibration from affecting the entire fuel line. I've been looking for a bronze or brass fitting that would mount on the firewall like the plastic one, but not crack, break, and...

I have a few leads, just have been too busy to follow up on them.

Best!

Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:58 pm

deprivation wrote: You know, I just used a barbed brass fitting from Home Depot. Easy-peasy and it cost a buck.

Now that I think of it, why didn't I just run the hose right back to the plastic line and skip all the hoo-ha of using a fitting? Guh.

Hi
could you describe or give more details so I can identify that fitting and get the right one ?

Thanks :))

Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:54 am

Herr Motorspiele wrote: Quote: Now that I think of it, why didn't I just run the hose right back to the plastic line and skip all the hoo-ha of using a fitting? Guh.

I've also thought of this and wondered if you would use a rubber grommet through the firewall or somehow run it below?
Didn't the stock metal fitting come from earlier AC models?

What most people don't even know is that on the other side of the firewall, after that plastic junction, there is only about 4in of hose before the plastic FI line. So don't leave that risky plastic part there!

Even with the engine in they are easy to reach, here is what i do for Subaru conversion and now, even on stock engine. You can use a brass junction also if you think you will need it?

Those are the original grommet, still available at VW. You can only use one for the hight pressure and it fit perfectly into the hole!

Ben[/img]

Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:12 am

I did my lines yesterday, but the stub to the injector seems integral. Is that true?

Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:26 am

Thinking of replacing the sleeves when I redo the fuel lines.
What length of sleeve do I need to order? Not home to measure right now.
BD sells by Meter..

Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:42 am

whafalia wrote: I did my lines yesterday, but the stub to the injector seems integral. Is that true?
Some people think that many engine fires are caused by leaks at the injector stub. It's as likely to let go as anything else, so, sure.

I had my injectors redone by Rich at Cruzin Performance and part of the rehab is new stubs. For 80 bucks you can't beat it.