TheSamba.com :: View topic - HELP! Electric Fuel Pump for My 1969 VW Fastback, Any Ideas!

Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:06 pm

Hello, I Made this account on finding Useful info on anything that is Volkswagen. This is the First time I am writing on a forum. The Main thing I want to know is Where can I get an Electric Fuel Pump for my 1969 Vw Fastback Semi - Automatic. Any information helps, Even if it is Possible if I can rebuilt the Fuel pump I have now? I saw a Guy today on U tube and he was Cleaning the inside of his Electric Fuel pump by Cleaning the Points but that was a 1973 MGB Fuel Pump. Where can I get one for an affordable price instead of paying $699.99 for one online (That damn hurts). I want to get one that looks close to this one that I pictured. ANY INFO HELPS even Tips on some that work just as well. I had this car for 4 years and looking for the fuel pump but could not find it. it is a Beauty of a car and Very rare. The car starts when you put starter Fluid and turn the Key but then shuts off because of Lack of Gasoline (or so I think). Car has been sitting on the back of my drive way covered and on hard tar floor. If I can't find a way to Start this car, I am afraid I have to sell the car as is. I can't start a Project if the car is not a drivable. I got too many projects Right Now like a 1966 VW micro bus, 1967 VW Beetle, and a Couple of Dodge Scamps. Again Any info on this will help, The car starts all I need is your help on information about an electric Fuel pump. Let me Know and here are the Pictures of how it looks like

Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:23 pm

Contact [email protected] He rebuilds them. I think charges something like $75 for a basic rebuild, and $125 for a complete rebuild.
Plus shipping.

You can also use the pump off another make car. I used a pump off an 85 Ford Ranger truck on my 71 fastback for over 5 years. It is still under there.

Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:40 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: Contact [email protected] He rebuilds them. I think charges something like $75 for a basic rebuild, and $125 for a complete rebuild.
Plus shipping.

You can also use the pump off another make car. I used a pump off an 85 Ford Ranger truck on my 71 fastback for over 5 years. It is still under there.

been there done that and got the t-shirt with the stock type 3 pump -- I'll go with the after market FP and a check valve any time -- spent over 5x that price, buying used, buying new (jc whitney & return it), have Jim Rebuild the top end (all he was doing at the time) -- and finally combining The one Jim Rebuilt with another I had.

Either the pump Russ talks about or some generic FI pump from summit, but don't forget to add a check valve. You can loose the return line from the pump back to the pipe, and simplify the plumbing under there.

Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:46 pm

:( My fuel pump quit on me this morning,engine just stopped! Was running fine.Discovered that the pump was blowing the fuse each time I tried to start.

Jim Adney rebuilt it last fall,was going well until now! hooked up a 12 volt source to the pump terminals did not run!

Any thoughts?

Regards,Bill

Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:12 pm

Bill, same thing happened to me last week...(blowing fuses) Turns out my fuel filter was plugged ... New filter and the problem went away

Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:22 pm

look in the F.I. Sticky
on the top of the first page of Type 3 forum

and a check valve??
which one??

wouldnt the fuel pressure regulator act as one??

Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:29 am

Pressure regulator is on the other end of the fuel loop in a T-3.
I was able to run my Ford pump without a check valve. I just had to prime the system each time I started the car.

Tue Mar 17, 2009 11:48 am

the ranger pump is an E2000 -- go on ebay and search for "E2000 fuel pump" ~$40 with shipping.

the bosch pumps have a built in check valve - this is to keep the fuel pressure up when you turn off the key. As russ said if you turn on the key ~twice you can build up the pressure without the check valve. They are olny about $20 on ebay.

Tue Mar 17, 2009 12:41 pm

Yes, the check valve on these pumps does two things. (a) it is a pressure relief valve for in case of overpressure from the pump (like a partially clogged line or a frozen regulator)...it vents. (b) it keeps teh fuel line presure from dropping very quickly after shutdown. This is mainly to facilitate hot starting....like when you are fully warmed up and then stop at 7-11.
This is the only time a bad check valve will really get you. It allows vapor to form in the. But as Russ noted....if you KNOW this is a problem....just simply bump the key 2-3 times and let the pump buzz before you turn teh key fully to start. You will hear vapor and air "squeel" through the regulator into the return line. When it stops...you are good to start. Ray

Tue Mar 17, 2009 3:06 pm

:shock: Just checked EBAY!

Price has gone up!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E2000-Fuel-Pump-For...10005r7477

Tue Mar 17, 2009 7:59 pm

Hello again, Thanks for all the info keep it coming so I can get an Idea to see what it is in every possible angle. I am Going to go check the fuses like mochabill said. I am going to check my fuel filter like alex608 said. I am going to go get a 1985 ranger Electric Fuel pump E2000 like Russ Wolfe and other people said but as a last resort. I got one thing to ask about the ford ranger pump, How about the other 2 slots like the original fuel pump? I am very young and New to the Classic Auto Family, Very rare to find someone like me loving these heavy Strong tank like cars that never Die. I am 20 years and I am not afraid to learn. Another Thing how can you Rebuilt one of these and are there any Pictures, info, or Websites. I look myself but Could not Find anything about rebuilding an Original Electric Fuel Pump or At least to see what is inside of one? I disassemble the Old one I have but Ended pretty Quick because I couldn't open it any more Farther because there was no Bolts but I feel like you can Open it up more. ANYWAY I Clean it to make it shine again. Here are the Pictures of it with circles of each part. I need to know more about rebuilting one of these. Keep the Answers Rolling and I will Respond to them and test them out. Haven't tested them out but will soon and will post the Results. Thanks everybody and here are the pictures (if you can't see Pictures Please tell me and I will fix them)

I took off the 4 Screws as seen in Picture on each circle

I took off the Square metal frame as seen in picture yellow

I took off all 5 Metal bullet points, Barrel that holds bullet points and Rubber. There is no more to take out from what I see but I have a feeling there is. Any help and I will post pictures to be more Clearer about what I am saying. Thanks hope to hear all of your responses. this is the First pictures of a 1969 Fastback Electric Fuel Pump's insides, I tried looking but I guess I am the First one to get Actual Pictures of one since no one has them. I Clean them til they shine reflecting the light off them and reassemble it all back.

Tue Mar 17, 2009 8:47 pm

other people have rebuilt them before-- IIRC VW fye or maybe bob was the one that rebuilt one off a 69 back in the day and took pictures.

In any case, to get to the rest of the pump you need to unpinch the metal tabs holding the electric motor inside the housing. I would personally put it back together and try running it back and forth using diesel, and if that doesnt work sending it to Jim Adney, since I can tell you from personal experience that rebuilding these pumps is NOT a cake walk- I took one apart all the way and it never worked. Since i started with one not working, I guess no harm done, but still.

Tue Mar 17, 2009 8:50 pm

Yeah, you've gotta un-do teh crimps to get any farther into the pump. But you may not need to.

Clean the gunk off the rotor area with some carb cleaner (no rags! spray and let it dry), and put 12V to the connectors. If it spins, clean the rest of it up and re-assemble .. but watch out for those o-rings, they can be a PITA to get in there "just right" sometimes.

If the motor spins, the gunk is cleaned out, and it's all put together right it should work just fine.

Wed Mar 18, 2009 6:23 am

This is not as imple as it looks. I've been into too many of these.
Not saying not to do this. If its not working now and you get it working...cool! Just don't expect miracles.
(1) when you open this pump head up....the rollers need to be gotten back into the respective cavities that they came from.....msot especially if you see rust like you do. Each onme will have slightly different measurements in height, and diamtere...as will its cavity from wear. Swapping them around could as easily make the pump worse...or better.
(2) Getting the stock 0-rings to reseal will be a crap-shoot. They either will or won't. Finding new rings that will compress properly...and not increase tolerances...will be a crap-shoot. DO NOT USE RTV when resealing this. It will increase tolerances...and make a highly variable pressure output...which may someday run you lean when teh pump heats up and leave you stranded.

there are a great many cheap pumps that caneasily be put in this ones palce. There is no reason why you are forced to stay with a D-jet pump...as excellent as they are. Ray

Wed May 23, 2012 11:35 pm

I've got a 1973 Dual carbureted fastback that I need a fuel pump for also. Would the e2000 work? I just bought the car and the pump that's currently in it requires to turn the key for a few seconds to prime the lines before starting (well it did until it stopped pumping fuel). I'm hoping to find something affordable so I don't have to spend $150 on a new one. Any ideas?

Wed May 23, 2012 11:42 pm

Ajvanloo wrote: I've got a 1973 Dual carbureted fastback that I need a fuel pump for also. Would the e2000 work? I just bought the car and the pump that's currently in it requires to turn the key for a few seconds to prime the lines before starting (well it did until it stopped pumping fuel). I'm hoping to find something affordable so I don't have to spend $150 on a new one. Any ideas?

No, you need a low output fuel pump that puts out about 3PSI. The above pumps are for fuel injection.

Wed May 23, 2012 11:57 pm

I apologize as I am a brand new member and brand new to vw's! Would any low psi generic pump work? The only thing that makes me think it won't work is the variance in voltages, but again I'm not sure. Thanks for your quick reply!

Thu May 24, 2012 12:05 am

Ajvanloo wrote: I apologize as I am a brand new member and brand new to vw's! Would any low psi generic pump work? The only thing that makes me think it won't work is the variance in voltages, but again I'm not sure. Thanks for your quick reply!

Yes, any low pressure generic pump will work. It needs to be low and as close to the gas tank inline as possible.

Thu May 24, 2012 8:12 am

Tram wrote: Ajvanloo wrote: I apologize as I am a brand new member and brand new to vw's! Would any low psi generic pump work? The only thing that makes me think it won't work is the variance in voltages, but again I'm not sure. Thanks for your quick reply!

Yes, any low pressure generic pump will work. It needs to be low and as close to the gas tank inline as possible.

I'm running the 42S from Mr.Gasket in my 65 Notch. Works just fine. It's a low pressure pump made for "imported cars".

Thu May 24, 2012 9:18 am

i have a 2.4-4lbs electric pump i have on my new bug
the rebuildable one and replacement one just dont work

so a friend gave me one kinda like this
the inlet/outlet are 5/16" tho

i guess ill move it to the front by the tank

i have this for replacement for the fasty
altho i first put it on my 411
(both are F.I.)

1991 Ford Ranger on the Driver Frame $22
so i CAN use this without pressure regulator??