TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:15 am

Front windshield? not too bad really. Most of what you see is the dashboard lip from an old leak I had fixed...a lot more surface than anything else there. It's really rocker panels and rear arch/ corners... anything up about 3-5 inches from the bottom, but floors are all sound, interior messy, but solid, doing woodwork for trim pieces and the like.

Anyone have thoughts on pop top clean up. My painter was thinking of moving to auto paint as in corvette's fiberglass bodies to help it stay clean and easliy washed, but I was thinking of fresh gelcoat. Any threads on this topic???

Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:21 am

Tilex w/bleach works great to clean it. I buffed it out afterwards and thats it.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 2:18 pm

yea I usually just pressure wash and use marine polish to get a high gloss shine, but was thinking of the possibility of going with real auto paint for a finish that won't hold onto dirt in the first place. Probably won't, but just wondered if anyone had done it.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:33 pm

i have used urethane paint used on semi trucks. good quality also made to stick to fiberglass. but u will need to prime with epoxy and sand first or u will have a lot of little hairs

Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:50 pm

SGKent wrote: nice job but a lot of work. You are dedicated to restore that one.
Reminds me of someone i know :lol:

Wed Nov 11, 2009 2:22 pm

but in upstate NY, this passes for a pretty clean 77 bus! I'd be better off $$ wise to have sold it as is, and found a nice one between Ca and Fla with little rust, but we go back a ways (though I should probably just "back away")

Sun Nov 15, 2009 3:45 pm

So we are getting bad rocker panels out, and tyring to keep the door track. Looks like a tight fit for the three layers to get in. The center layer has the upper lip bent inboard, rather than outward is it was originally welded below the track.

So anyone have guidance for this portion? We really want to keep the track in place, as it is aligned perfectly.

So here's where we are...

here's the gap between the track section and the floor frames. the inner panel's lip stits across the floor frames, a tight fit to get layers in there!

Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:45 pm

So the quarter panels are getting there, and new battery trays are in. the right side rockers...a slow deliberate task...

Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:44 pm

jamesdagg wrote: I've read it's easier to apply the tension with the beam installed. I probably read it here on one of the best bus tech sites.

http://www.ratwell.com/

Richard Atwell has done it all, as have many people, but he documented it as well. Thank you Richard.

Nicksny and I swapped his beam with one from a parts bus and it was not too hard but the best part was being able to POR15 everything above and around it as well as the beam itself. The whole front underside of his Westy looks like black glass now.

Richard says once in a while you will get a beam that is a little too wide or narrow for your bus. If too narrow use shims, if too wide, too bad. Scared me till we fitted the replacement beam. Fit perfect.

Be real careful with the hard plastic brake booster lines. As far as I know they are not replaceable.

It took 3 of us to manhandle it in place, all the while watching that no one was directly under it at any time.

jim

Wait, what parts on the booster are delicate? Good job so far.

Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:55 am

Holy o fuck,Keep on keepin on.That bus needs more work than the one I ditched in 1989 in a junkyard for a chic.20 years later I decided I wanted my bus back.House on wheels.The only thing better was knowing you had tickets to the next show......And not worrying if you had the rest.Good Karma is Key.Good Luck

Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:54 am

lostsailr wrote: well front endwas done for summer fun, now were are onto the rest...

What did you do to repair/rebuild that B pillar?

Tue Feb 02, 2010 11:06 am

wow! Sorry I didn't see this thread sooner. The tearing out of the floor doesn't have anything to do with rocker repair. Sorry to see you go through some repairs that aren't needed. That rocker skin (and door track, if ever needed) are all replaceable without floor damage. Those get removed from the outside.

Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:05 am

Well the sliding door and related floor tear up is now the least of my worries. AS for the piller question there was some fabrication needed to fill the gaps between what restoration parts we found.
Fortunately as we moved to the rest of the bus, there was less depth to the rust and now we are set to paint (and get the engine back in...removed to getpst firewall and do the fuel tank/lines and filler tubes right.
The issue I'm trying to resolve now is the driver's door. Mine was bad so I got another from a yard, not realizing that the 74 door was not a match for the 77 body. Apparently the hinge kit to adapt them is no longer available, so I'm hoping someone has one that they can get me photos and measurements so I migh get some made up... so show me your...here, I'll show you mine...so far

front roofrack painted

fuel line clamp for ease of tank draining

tins removed

Engine out

tank out

pretty clean inside

tank area needs some surface treatment

Finally found the right color code after a few attempts and 2 visits from the paint rep with his computer color scanner!

Now to get that hinge to match. ANYONE have a picture of the hinge adapter kit? measurements? If I can get a set made by machine shop, perhaps I'll run a few extras...HELP!? &*^%&*^ :)

Wed Jun 30, 2010 11:10 am

Nice work, man. A labor of love.

Thu Jul 01, 2010 1:07 am

Coming along nicely. One heck of a project, I hope the shop is reasonable in their labor rates.

Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:16 pm

They were more last year, but dropped by $15 per hour this yearas an inflation deal to keep customers. Evan at his lower rate I am wishing I was equipped and able to do welding. Seems fair considering he's learning the bus body thing along with me.
Hope to show off by end of the month. Looking tight I'm afraid.

Fri Jul 09, 2010 5:28 pm

So, with some sweat, grease and choice words, all the fuel/vapor lines are changed, tank back in as is the engine. Now for the hinge plates to get painted to match the door jams and get this beast into the booth!

Now we need to make a new engine tin to cover the space where the A/C was. Anyone have an OE part for me? :lol:

Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:25 pm

lookin good thus far - keep cranking!

Sat Jul 10, 2010 5:25 am

I recently got the hinge adapters from England where they make em. Its just to round pieces to fill the large hinge so the smaller one fits in. Pics I'll have to look....

Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:39 am

Bus Depot got a few of the adapter kits in just after I ordered my seals. Needless to say I have them ordered too !
Thanks for offering to check though!
I am now at the NJ shore taking a 1 weeek break...hopefully as paint is getting applied!