TheSamba.com :: View topic - Getting the ball rolling '73 Standard

Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:43 pm

theredbarn wrote: You're welcome on the tools... that torque master is a treat to use.

There's no way I'd use that crank without having it ground. Save your pennies up, write a letter to Santa and get a CW crank and rods like I suggested. You've done the cheap and dirty, now it's time to do it right.

:? ..I love being a poor teenage right about now..I'm hoping this one can be saved for the time being..with the holidays coming up..I have to save my money and cannot afford to buy a new one..(trust me it was talked over with the parents) :x ..So even thought its not in the greatest condition..would a re-polishing just be way to cheap? I CANNOT feel any wear on the crank with my finger nail accept for that part on the #4 journal..I also did the test where you rub the penny length wise over the rod journals and no copper came off. The Haynes manual says that if ANY copper is rubbed off then the crank needs to be re-surfaced..and no copper was rubbed off..not even on the scratched journal...do I still have hope?

Fri Nov 20, 2009 9:48 pm

Ditto on the crank.

Do it right now or you'll be doing it all too soon again . . .

Nice work so far . . .

The machine shop will be able to tell you if polishing is enough. If you cannot feel them, and assuming nothing else is wrong, then polishing should be fine.

The ones you can feel are the real kicker. Just give the shop the 'poor teenager' story and maybe they will give you a break. Wish I still had my 69mm out of my 1915, I'd send it to you ;)

Fri Nov 20, 2009 10:48 pm

fastinradford wrote: Please put a counter-weight crank in it...

why?

Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:24 am

Wondering the same.

They have their place, but stock should be more than OK for his build - and budget.

Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:55 am

Scotchbrite the journals then buff with bodyshop compound...polish and save what you got.measure the journals to be sure your using the right bearings.

Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:44 pm

Alright..will do, I asked the parents for some money and all I got was "Find a job, if the car breaks down, you already know how to take it apart, not like its a big deal anyway.." :x But I think that main are alright, they all spin freely, it almost feels like the #3 main bearing has drag on it..something to be worried about? But today, I'll start cleaning it all up and then polish the journals..and hopefully get all this back together soon..

Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:48 pm

Good luck.

Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:06 pm

PatterBon wrote: Alright..will do, I asked the parents for some money and all I got was "Find a job, if the car breaks down, you already know how to take it apart, not like its a big deal anyway.." :x But I think that main are alright, they all spin freely, it almost feels like the #3 main bearing has drag on it..something to be worried about? But today, I'll start cleaning it all up and then polish the journals..and hopefully get all this back together soon..
I get the same reply! :(

Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:12 pm

Beetlebaum wrote: PatterBon wrote: Alright..will do, I asked the parents for some money and all I got was "Find a job, if the car breaks down, you already know how to take it apart, not like its a big deal anyway.." :x But I think that main are alright, they all spin freely, it almost feels like the #3 main bearing has drag on it..something to be worried about? But today, I'll start cleaning it all up and then polish the journals..and hopefully get all this back together soon..
I get the same reply! :(

And I get the "you have a nice car why are you wasting money on that one?" reply. lol.

Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:18 pm

It's already been said - borrow a micrometer or two, measure everything carefully (before polishing...), especially the big ends. On the rods, install the caps and torque them down before measuring, and ensure the caps are installed the right way 'round - that may be what's causing your issue with #3 'hanging up' a bit.

I use 1500-grit crocus cloth for hand-polishing, along with a bit of WD-40. Cleans 'em up real nice!

Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:00 pm

Why not just use plastigage to check the clearence?

Sat Nov 21, 2009 5:58 pm

kjvforme wrote: Why not just use plastigage to check the clearence?

Plastiguage is fine for the final pre-assembly check. It's not nearly accurate enough to determine whether or not one needs to have crank journals reground, and won't tell you if you have an out-of-round journal or rod end. It's really meant for that last double-check to ensure you have the appropriate .001-.0025" oil clearance.

On the counterweighted crank, there's two benefits: smoother and won't hammer the case nearly as quickly or as much (remember - that case is mag/aluminum alloy. They're soft!). Hell... just the silk-smoothness of mine made the additional $80 worth it! Cast CW cranks can be had for $200 or less.

Sat Nov 21, 2009 7:23 pm

Plastigauge is a waste of time,measure the crank journals and buy the correct bearings,if a rod hangs up lightly tap on the cap end of the rod with a hammer till it moves freely.A buffing wheel and compound works like a champ.Get it running,then save dough for a nice build.

Sat Nov 21, 2009 7:48 pm

norcalvw wrote: fastinradford wrote: Please put a counter-weight crank in it...

why?

because next time you won't need a new case after you beat this motor up.

Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:38 pm

I'm supprised at the build it dirty attitued I see here. Let's tell the kid to slap it together again just so worn out parts can fail again. Hey maybe the next time the engine fails it wont' be in hsi drive way but beside the road miles from home. Yeah that's good advice!

Dude - take the parts down to John's have him check everything over and see if any of the parts can or should be re-used. I know how bad you want this car back on the road, but do it right. You deserve the safety of a job done right and so do your passengers. You've already burned a bunch of money and have nothing to show for it except the experience of splitting the case twice.

Sun Nov 22, 2009 3:02 am

Best reply I have seen yet.

The one thing I have finally come to terms with (albeit I am now 40) is patience and doing something right.

I know people in town with cars they are scared to drive across town, but good looking cars . . . they never put the extra into the mechanical side that they should have. I know this is not you, but doing something twice is never fun.

I built my 2276 over about a 5 week period and took painstaking care on everything.

That engine has been to TX and LA from Vegas in a split bus 3 times now and is solid as a rock. I look at it as a true testament to doing it right the first time - no matter how much I wanted to rush or cut corners.

I am not saying you're doing that, but I would not necessarily take the easiest path suggested.

There are SO many things that can be wrong the you cannot tell by the naked eye and can make your build last < a month.

For what it is worth, I never build an engine without having the crank, rods and case inspected - and it is not expensive to do that. Then balance you budget based on the input of the results.

I admire your quick turn around to split that thing and go right back into it. You will learn something every time you touch it - make sound decisions and be proud of your efforts.

Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:04 am

PatterBon wrote: Alright..will do, I asked the parents for some money and all I got was "Find a job, if the car breaks down, you already know how to take it apart, not like its a big deal anyway.." :x But I think that main are alright, they all spin freely, it almost feels like the #3 main bearing has drag on it..something to be worried about? But today, I'll start cleaning it all up and then polish the journals..and hopefully get all this back together soon..

Bring the crank and rods down Tuesday and let me look them over, if you need parts and dont have any cash maybe I can put you to work in the bead blast cabinet or the solvent tank :lol:

Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:59 am

Bring the crank and rods down Tuesday and let me look them over, if you need parts and dont have any cash maybe I can put you to work in the bead blast cabinet or the solvent tank :lol:[/quote]

Now that is VDubers helping out other VDubers out. Kudos to you fine sir.

Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:29 am

What an offer. I like that idea. trade out work for work...Barter system cannot be taxed and the feds hate it..yippy for us.

Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:46 am

That is what I love about the crowd.