TheSamba.com :: View topic - Torque Master/Meister/Buddy what ever you call it

Thu Apr 02, 2009 2:19 pm

I bought one of these marvelous tools and have used it for both flywheels and bug brake drum nuts. What I want to know is has anyone been able to get it to work on a bay window bus 46 mm drum nut? If so, pics please!

Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:41 pm

Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:50 pm

i have wanted to buy one, but i guess there has been a run of junk one's. 3 places i have called said they won't sell me one because of this :? anyway, can't help you but the old pipe trick is tried and true. i have a ingersoll TNT 1/2 drive impact that has yet to fail in this department. (i am, however using a hose with 5/8 ID :twisted:

Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:28 pm

I also have an industrial IR 1/2 inch impact and an IR two stage corpressor that can pump 150 psi. This does the trick for me. The Torque Meister is something I also have and use occationally. I just think it would be cool if did bus axle nuts.

Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:31 pm

I have one, and have used it on our bug. It works great, worth every penny.
I've never used it on a bus though.

Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:52 pm

There are a couple guys on here that like to make tools. I bought a steering wheel puller from one. That's the kind of dude that could modify this to work on a bus.

Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:03 pm

aeromech wrote:

Looks simple to modify. Now you got me thinking :-k

Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:19 pm

Aeromech, your patience before bumping is exemplary.

Could someone please tell me what that thing does? I have never heard of one. I know it looks like a window regulator from some cars but that obviously isn't it. What does it do?

Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:34 pm

I thought the hammer units where one puts a breaker bar on it and then whacks it were supposed to work well. Something is needed cause when we took apart our 1977 I broke a 1" Craftsman breaker bar jumping up and down on it trying to break the driver's side nut free. I finally had to dremel through it enough to chisel a split into it. I also have a very high impact IR and that did nothing even at 125 psi. I figure we exceeded 1000 foot pounds of torque on that nut and it didn't budge.

Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:47 pm

RatCamper wrote: Aeromech, your patience before bumping is exemplary.

Could someone please tell me what that thing does? I have never heard of one. I know it looks like a window regulator from some cars but that obviously isn't it. What does it do?

Hahaha, yeah... I forgot about that post until I did a search today and it popped up. Here's a youtube video showing it at work:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66PeguKXnds

You turn one piece around and then can do the flywheel gland nut. This is what I use to torque them.

Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:41 pm

all you would really need to do is duplicate the arm, and weld a socket on it. i think some good measurments, a piece of plate steel and a drill press and you could make it a couple hours

Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:48 pm

you could make it a couple hours

That's what I'm saying. I think one of those fabricator guys could whip up an accessory pretty quickly and maybe make a couple bucks.

Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:50 pm

as soon as i get my hands on one, i'll fab one up for ya. i should try again to purchase one. perhaps the bad batch is out of the system

Fri Jun 17, 2011 5:29 pm

SGKent wrote: I thought the hammer units where one puts a breaker bar on it and then whacks it were supposed to work well. Something is needed cause when we took apart our 1977 I broke a 1" Craftsman breaker bar jumping up and down on it trying to break the driver's side nut free. I finally had to dremel through it enough to chisel a split into it. I also have a very high impact IR and that did nothing even at 125 psi. I figure we exceeded 1000 foot pounds of torque on that nut and it didn't budge.

Sarge, last year i was faced with this exact same thing, i had my kid brother helping me on this one, we took the bus to a truck tyre shop to get the nut out with a 1" imparc IR and 150 PSI, no luck. So then i turn to him and say: "we got two options, ethier we start to cut our way trough with a chissel or we come down on this with heat", i went south and got a butane torch staring right at the nut sourrunding it with a blue flame, when time is right, wd-40 goes in action turning into a very fine mist almost mysticall, right then we put the 3/4 socket wrench in and stand on it, my brother laugh his face of saying i had allready ruined the rim coating, melted the wheel hub seals, and who knows what, right then the nut turned and i had the whole assembly off in 30 minutes, no tools broken, no bangging with chissels, no one hurt, and just cosmetic damage and a melted seal.... air and impact only gets you so far is my experience with super tight frozen nuts.

Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:19 pm

Wow, I've never run into one THAT tight. Knock on wood.

Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:37 pm

The wonderful fantastic $9 whacker tool, a breaker bar, a piece of pipe and a sledge does marvelous things. I did one axle nut and a 10 ft. pipe wasn't doing the job with it's massive torque. But standing as far out on the pipe as you can and reach back and give the Whacker Tool a real sharp chrisp whack with a sledge and it done. Not a wham but a whack

Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:47 pm

Desertbusman wrote: The wonderful fantastic $9 whacker tool, a breaker bar, a piece of pipe and a sledge does marvelous things. I did one axle nut and a 10 ft. pipe wasn't doing the job with it's massive torque. But standing as far out on the pipe as you can and reach back and give the Whacker Tool a real sharp chrisp whack with a sledge and it done. Not a wham but a whack

X2!

They work great.

Until you get too old, or..,...your too stupid to use one. :lol: :shock:

J

Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:49 pm

El_Güero wrote: SGKent wrote: I thought the hammer units where one puts a breaker bar on it and then whacks it were supposed to work well. Something is needed cause when we took apart our 1977 I broke a 1" Craftsman breaker bar jumping up and down on it trying to break the driver's side nut free. I finally had to dremel through it enough to chisel a split into it. I also have a very high impact IR and that did nothing even at 125 psi. I figure we exceeded 1000 foot pounds of torque on that nut and it didn't budge.

Sarge, last year i was faced with this exact same thing, i had my kid brother helping me on this one, we took the bus to a truck tyre shop to get the nut out with a 1" imparc IR and 150 PSI, no luck. So then i turn to him and say: "we got two options, ethier we start to cut our way trough with a chissel or we come down on this with heat", i went south and got a butane torch staring right at the nut sourrunding it with a blue flame, when time is right, wd-40 goes in action turning into a very fine mist almost mysticall, right then we put the 3/4 socket wrench in and stand on it, my brother laugh his face of saying i had allready ruined the rim coating, melted the wheel hub seals, and who knows what, right then the nut turned and i had the whole assembly off in 30 minutes, no tools broken, no bangging with chissels, no one hurt, and just cosmetic damage and a melted seal.... air and impact only gets you so far is my experience with super tight frozen nuts.

yes it is amazing what heat will do including destroy the temper of the metal. I remember trying to drill hardened rivets out once on a T4 Jeep trans. Titanium drill bit bounced. Hit it with a little heat, let it cool and a cheap steel bit went thru it like butter. Didn't even melt the grease farther out on the piece. I think we will keep heat off our axles. They were heat hardened at the factory and we like them that way especially when driving on winding roads with cliffs to the side. :)

Sat Jun 18, 2011 8:24 am

I have those whackers tools for bug and bus but after years of swinging a heavy hammer and barely missing hitting the side of the bus I prefer something safer.

Thu Nov 27, 2014 8:42 am

Weld a 36mm nut onto a 46mm socket.