TheSamba.com :: View topic - Pressure wash

Wed Apr 15, 2009 2:12 am

Hey guys. I am going to take my engine casing to my step dads over the weekend as he has a pressure washer and I want to get all the gunk off the engine case to check for cracks. I'm also going to bring the engine tin for a washing, but are there any other parts that this would work well on and not damage? I have everything from the engine disassembled. Thanks!

Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:49 am

I've done the heads too with the valves out. I ran hot water thru my powerwasher. It does a pretty good job degreasing. Wear some goggles and don't wear clothes that you plan on keeping very long..the little bits of grease go flying everywhere.

Wed Apr 15, 2009 7:57 pm

coat the case and tin with oven cleaner let it stand for a lil bit then power away. I would putty knife the big stuff off first.

Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:22 pm

Quote: coat the case and tin with oven cleaner let it stand for a lil bit then power away.

I do not recomend using any type of oven cleaner. They contain caustic soda that eat metal. Mag and Aluminum are the most at risk.

Thu Apr 16, 2009 6:15 am

Use simple green instead..actually if your pressure washer is powerful enough, you won't need any degreaser at all. It will blast that chit right off. :twisted: The hot water helps tho..

Wed Apr 15, 2015 12:11 am

EMPIImp69 wrote: Use simple green instead..actually if your pressure washer is powerful enough, you won't need any degreaser at all. It will blast that chit right off. :twisted: The hot water helps tho..

After pressure washing of the halves is done should I just let it air dry for a couple days? before rebuilding. Anything to help the process along?

Wed Apr 15, 2015 12:35 am

Scrape and soften up the large gunk deposits with solvent of some form first. THEN once it's getting to where you can see metal in most places apply de-greaser and after a short soak/scrub pressure wash it off and should be squeak clean. Best to use HOT water and dry with compressed air. If not possible then make do. Don't want it to be wet for longer than needed!

Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:13 am

modok wrote: Scrape and soften up the large gunk deposits with solvent of some form first. THEN once it's getting to where you can see metal in most places apply de-greaser and after a short soak/scrub pressure wash it off and should be squeak clean. Best to use HOT water and dry with compressed air. If not possible then make do. Don't want it to be wet for longer than needed!

okay, I'll do it during one of the hot days in the sun then....

Wed Apr 15, 2015 3:28 am

GUNK brand engine degreaser (original) works very well for first wash (after scraping off heavy stuff) followed by Simple Green.... HAZ MAT suit will keep you pristine.....

Dale

Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:23 am

I use that purple stuff from home depot. "Industrial purple" or something. I dilute it 50/50, however.

Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:39 am

I use the gunk (blue can) like Dale. Good stuff. For about 5 bucks a can, it has done wonders. Seen it cut some heavy stuff. Worse off cases usually might take another can. I have not had to break out my pressure washer for a while now to clean a case. Spray down with water hose pressure, let dry repeat if necessary. Let air dry, then i blast with my soda blaster, ( if needed linebore, i will do it at this point) wash down again, let dry. In a rush you can blow dry compressed air. Heat gun works well too. I usually just find something else to do in between.Then lastly i fog on wd40 and spread with a rag. Slows down oxidation. Remember to pull the relief plug and valves and blow out passages out good.

Wed Apr 15, 2015 1:13 pm

jfats808 wrote: I use the gunk (blue can) like Dale. Good stuff. For about 5 bucks a can, it has done wonders. Seen it cut some heavy stuff. Worse off cases usually might take another can. I have not had to break out my pressure washer for a while now to clean a case. Spray down with water hose pressure, let dry repeat if necessary. Let air dry, then i blast with my soda blaster, ( if needed linebore, i will do it at this point) wash down again, let dry. In a rush you can blow dry compressed air. Heat gun works well too. I usually just find something else to do in between.Then lastly i fog on wd40 and spread with a rag. Slows down oxidation. Remember to pull the relief plug and valves and blow out passages out good.

Hmmmm, WD40. Never thought of that. If you leave the pressure washed case out in the hot sun would it really start to oxidize that fast? obviously there are reasons not to have oxidation/rust in the block but what are they?

Wed Apr 15, 2015 1:53 pm

No it wont oxidate that fast. Its purely for longer term protection. This will help greatly if you live in an area close to the water or salting roads etc.

Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:09 pm

jfats808 wrote: No it wont oxidate that fast. Its purely for longer term protection. This will help greatly if you live in an area close to the water or salting roads etc.

So by spraying the WD40 on, is that okay to leave in the engine when rebuilding? or should it just be a spray and wipe.

Wed Apr 15, 2015 3:34 pm

VolkDubz wrote: jfats808 wrote: No it wont oxidate that fast. Its purely for longer term protection. This will help greatly if you live in an area close to the water or salting roads etc.

So by spraying the WD40 on, is that okay to leave in the engine when rebuilding? or should it just be a spray and wipe.

Outside only.....when the engine is assembled it will be protected by the engine oil. Inside should only use assembly lube on parts. Rest is leave as is.

Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:18 pm

jfats808 wrote: VolkDubz wrote: jfats808 wrote: No it wont oxidate that fast. Its purely for longer term protection. This will help greatly if you live in an area close to the water or salting roads etc.

So by spraying the WD40 on, is that okay to leave in the engine when rebuilding? or should it just be a spray and wipe.

Outside only.....when the engine is assembled it will be protected by the engine oil. Inside should only use assembly lube on parts. Rest is leave as is.

Awesome, Awesome..... thank you for the answers, they are greatly appreciated. :wink: