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Wed May 27, 2009 3:48 pm

Is there any harm in removing the gland nut with an impact wrench instead of a 5' long cheater bar?

Thanks,
Danny
'74 Super

Wed May 27, 2009 3:53 pm

Not as long as you use the correct socket, or at least it has never been a problem for me. I do heat them first just in case they used the correct Loctite.

Wed May 27, 2009 4:32 pm

Each impact is felt at every bearing in the bottom end to some degree as well as the flywheel dowels.

I'm sure a lot of people use an impact wrench here, but I play it safe.

Max

Wed May 27, 2009 4:34 pm

Torquemeister.

Wed May 27, 2009 5:03 pm

Icy wrote: Torquemeister.

x2 best vw tool that i have bought and a flywheel lock. my 10 year old say it makes him look strong when he pops them loose.

Wed May 27, 2009 6:26 pm

pafree wrote: Icy wrote: Torquemeister.

x2 best vw tool that i have bought and a flywheel lock. my 10 year old say it makes him look strong when he pops them loose.

x3, my 10-year old (at the time) daughter undid the gland nut on my vert with a 3/8" socket wrench exactly like in the photo.

Thu Nov 18, 2010 6:53 am

Here is a pic of my method. couple things to note. A 1 7/16" 3/4" drive 7 dollar socket will work in place of the 36mm. I could not find a 36mm socket in a 3/4" drive only 1/2" drive local. I snapped a 1/2" drive breaker bar w/ 3'-0" pipe on it easily. Mounting the angle in the vice off edge of bench keeps the motor from twisting. I used my 3/4" drive harbor freight special torque wrench. took about 350 lbs to break it loose.

Thu Nov 18, 2010 12:50 pm

CHEVYJEFF wrote: Here is a pic of my method. couple things to note. A 1 7/16" 3/4" drive 7 dollar socket will work in place of the 36mm. I could not find a 36mm socket in a 3/4" drive only 1/2" drive local. I snapped a 1/2" drive breaker bar w/ 3'-0" pipe on it easily. Mounting the angle in the vice off edge of bench keeps the motor from twisting. I used my 3/4" drive harbor freight special torque wrench. took about 350 lbs to break it loose.

Flywheel lock AND an angle bar! That's what I need to do. I've pulled my engine twice trying to get the gland nut off to replace that leaky main seal. I failed each time. First time I ended up with a bent and twisted angle bar and a snapped-off snap-on breaker bar! Next time I tried an electric impact wrench AND an air impact wrench. Even with a bit of heat on the nut I had no luck.

Thu Nov 18, 2010 1:14 pm

havent came across to many fasteners that were this tight. axil nuts were easy compared to this sumbitch. The only other nut this damn tight was the the harmonic balance bolt on my duramax diesel. I felt relieved when it broke loose. I thought I was going to flip the workbench, motor and all before it let go.

Thu Nov 18, 2010 2:56 pm

Add another vote for the Torquemeister. It's a pretty common tool in VW garages, you could probably find someone nearby who will let you borrow theirs. Mines always available for anyone nearby.

Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:57 am

partonkevin wrote: CHEVYJEFF wrote: Here is a pic of my method. couple things to note. A 1 7/16" 3/4" drive 7 dollar socket will work in place of the 36mm. I could not find a 36mm socket in a 3/4" drive only 1/2" drive local. I snapped a 1/2" drive breaker bar w/ 3'-0" pipe on it easily. Mounting the angle in the vice off edge of bench keeps the motor from twisting. I used my 3/4" drive harbor freight special torque wrench. took about 350 lbs to break it loose.

Flywheel lock AND an angle bar! That's what I need to do. I've pulled my engine twice trying to get the gland nut off to replace that leaky main seal. I failed each time. First time I ended up with a bent and twisted angle bar and a snapped-off snap-on breaker bar! Next time I tried an electric impact wrench AND an air impact wrench. Even with a bit of heat on the nut I had no luck.

Heating the gland nut is a no-no, but it's your engine so have at it.

Overall, I can never understand the appeal of these Rube-Goldberg methods of removing the gland nut and axle nuts considering the amount of torque required to reinstall them. Sure, one can play the "guesstimate game", but if the gland nut isn't torqued to the correct specification, it'll come loose and everything will go to hell.

If you're unwilling or unable to buy a simple tool that will get the job done safely and correctly, then you have no business working on your own vehicle. Over the years, I've seen a lot of posts from people who wanted to prove the right tool wasn't needed and that they could do it. Shortly after, they'd return with a tale of woe with how everything fell apart or got torn up. I have zero sympathy for people like that.

Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:03 am

Most commonly people will make the mistake of useing just a Fly Wheel lock and a 4 by 4 block of wood under the Head .
Then around 1 - 3 or 4 thousand mile's or so they wonder why there head's are loose and have hammerd hell out of the head fly cutt and case decking .
This method stretche's the head stud's !
Helping hand is a must have item for this procedure .
Sean

Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:48 pm

Gary wrote: partonkevin wrote: CHEVYJEFF wrote: Here is a pic of my method. couple things to note. A 1 7/16" 3/4" drive 7 dollar socket will work in place of the 36mm. I could not find a 36mm socket in a 3/4" drive only 1/2" drive local. I snapped a 1/2" drive breaker bar w/ 3'-0" pipe on it easily. Mounting the angle in the vice off edge of bench keeps the motor from twisting. I used my 3/4" drive harbor freight special torque wrench. took about 350 lbs to break it loose.

Flywheel lock AND an angle bar! That's what I need to do. I've pulled my engine twice trying to get the gland nut off to replace that leaky main seal. I failed each time. First time I ended up with a bent and twisted angle bar and a snapped-off snap-on breaker bar! Next time I tried an electric impact wrench AND an air impact wrench. Even with a bit of heat on the nut I had no luck.

Heating the gland nut is a no-no, but it's your engine so have at it.

Overall, I can never understand the appeal of these Rube-Goldberg methods of removing the gland nut and axle nuts considering the amount of torque required to reinstall them. Sure, one can play the "guesstimate game", but if the gland nut isn't torqued to the correct specification, it'll come loose and everything will go to hell.

If you're unwilling or unable to buy a simple tool that will get the job done safely and correctly, then you have no business working on your own vehicle. Over the years, I've seen a lot of posts from people who wanted to prove the right tool wasn't needed and that they could do it. Shortly after, they'd return with a tale of woe with how everything fell apart or got torn up. I have zero sympathy for people like that.

What's the simple tool that will get the job done safely and correctly? Is it the ..."Torquemeister? I've never seen this tool in repair manuals or factory brochures. I may not need to be working on any of my two dozen vehicles since I don't have this tool, but can't I just use my 3/4" drive tools to remove it and then torque it back down with my name-brand yearly calibrated torque wrench?

Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:05 pm

partonkevin wrote: can't I just use my 3/4" drive tools to remove it and then torque it back down with my name-brand yearly calibrated torque wrench?
You can, if your torque wrench goes up to 250 ft lb. Personally, I use a torque meister with a 3/8" torque wrench (75 ft lb capacity set to 30 ft lb) and 11mm socket. Some feel it's the wrong tool, but it makes the job trivially easy. I love it.

Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:32 pm

Sure, to answer the OP question, you can use an air impact to remove a gland nut, if gun is strong enough.
You can also heat a Gland nut, once. The heat will no doubt change the hardness as well as burn the grease and felt ring out of the needle bearing.
BTW there is no mention in the manuals or need for a locking compound, that is only for your own piece of mind. It makes removal and re-use a PITA. Unless you plan on making a lot of HP, I wouldn't use it. And if I did, it would be low strength blue.
I have broken Gland nuts tightening with an impact, so I don't do that anymore.
I would say the best way for someone with little experience to retighten them is to use a torque wrench. That itself presents a challenge to most because not only do you need a good TW, you also need a way to hold the engine and flywheel from turning. You need a strong engine stand you can trust, a flywheel lock, and a good, accurate torque wrench.
The torque wrench is where most people skimp. In general, they are all most accurate in the middle of their range. That is, a wrench rated at 250 ft lbs is most accurate tightening fasteners in the range of 120 to 160 ft lbs. If you try to tighten a gland nut with one of these set to 217 ft lbs, there is surely trouble soon to follow. There is no way you're going to get an accurate or sufficient torque with a wrench that's only 30" long.
The best torque wrench to use is one rated at 400 ft lbs or more. These are all going to be at least 3/4" drive. This way when you tighten the nut, the wrench is applying an accurate torque. The wrench should be pulled, not pushed. The motion should be smooth and in one swing.
A torque wrench should not be used to loosen anything either, that can damage them or alter their calibration
I've never had to use the Torquemiester, but it does look like the best alternative method there is.

Sat Nov 20, 2010 9:24 pm

How can you remove the gland nut and flywheel with it out of the case?I have just the crank and the flywheels still attached.I have no bench vise or much to hold it with. Any advice?????????? :?: :?:

Sat Nov 20, 2010 11:56 pm

Gary wrote: Torquemeister.

:shock: :shock: :shock:

Sun Nov 21, 2010 7:02 am

1974YellowBug wrote: How can you remove the gland nut and flywheel with it out of the case?I have just the crank and the flywheels still attached.I have no bench vise or much to hold it with. Any advice?????????? :?: :?: Find someplace with a vice or else take the entire assy to a shop that has a high torque impact gun.

Sun Nov 21, 2010 7:47 am

1974YellowBug wrote: How can you remove the gland nut and flywheel with it out of the case?I have just the crank and the flywheels still attached.I have no bench vise or much to hold it with. Any advice?????????? :?: :?:
Even with a vise, I don't think you could hold it tight enough to use a breaker bar.
Best way now is with an impact.
Or, resort to those Rube Goldberg methods :lol:

Sun Nov 21, 2010 1:33 pm

I just put mine back on with the Torque Dude (same as Torquemeister) and Helping Hand. I set my torque wrench to 30lbs which equates to 270lbs on the gland nut. It didn't feel like I was tightening it very much at all, but I guess it is right. What an awesome feeling it is when you have the right tools for the job. :)