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Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:00 am

The last two days I had been driving my 64 Bug to work and back 30 miles one way.
I just got it running after some top end engine work and had changed the oil at 500 miles as recommended for breakin.
Yesterday I was just minutes from my home on the expressway at a light and the Bug kind of coughs so I hung a right. As I turned the corner she stalled.

My 1200 40 horse has no thermostat bellows or heat riser hose. I'm running a doghouse fan/oil cooler and it has an aftermarket air filter.

After I have driven a bit and go to shut the engine down I noticed a small amount of dieseling when I turn the key off. Two days ago after turning off the engine I opened the deck lid and the dip stick was way to hot to touch, I also saw that the aftermarket tar board was so hot the glue was failing and it was falling off.

What is a good adhesive for the engine bay?

The engine did not have that "hot" smell but it did seem a bit to warm?

I have been reading Muir and he recommends a dwell meter and static timing.

I plan to buy one but it will have to wait. The other thing I noticed when I got my engine back from the shop is my valves were too tight.

I'm going to recheck them and set at .006 since I had a stud kit put on the heads.

Currently I'm looking for a good oil bath filter which I've heard helps the car run cooler.

I'm also thinking of taking it to a local ACVW shop to have it inspected. I am not 100% sure what the PO did to the car and want to have it checked.

As always I appreciate the advice and assistance from the folks at the Samba. Thanks

Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:51 am

Dude I feel sorry for you, something about your story .... Check compression first, then make sure all the rubber seals are in place including those around the cylinders and the big engine seal itself. Hows the fresh air hoses??? heater boxes???

Too bad about the thermostat but its more for providing a quick warmup to proper operating temp... Running without only makes warm ups longer, fuel dilution of the oil because of the longer warmup eventually compression leaks but thats 20 or 30k down the road..

also check for vacuum leaks but proper troubleshooting order would be something like this......First and most obvious check cooling fan (ENGINE OFF) reach back there and feel around for leaves, rags,plastic bags etc.......

Compression
Seals
carb jetting
Intake leaks
Timing

You PM me and I'll give you a 40 hp air cleaner original oil bath if you pay shipping :D

Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:33 am

The breastplate and main engine compartment seals are new and in place.

The only thing there is my tin is under the rear seal not in between the two rubbers, I have heard that is not a big deal? Both heat exchangers were blasted and had new flanges welded on by the shop. Hoses are OEM and new as well as the rubber seals.

The only thing there that jogs my memory is the steel collars may not be fully seated in the inlets under the rear tin. They are a mother to line up. I checked in front of the fan for blockage.

The only thing that concerns me is the crappy aftermarket "Tar Board" which is not like the OG one, got so warm it started to creep down even with glue and tabs holding it in place.

As of now shes parked, I called the shop and since the PO may have jacked something up I have not found I don't want to fry a fresh engine.

I'm going to have them inspect everything including to make sure the pulley is the correct doghouse one and on properly.

The shop told me my timing should be at zero degrees BTDC. I set it at 10. Hmm thats what Muir said for a 40 Horse.

I'm fairly new to ACVWs so I'll have them check the timing and see if I can get a little instruction on doing it myself in the future. I know that if the timing is off that will cause overheating.

I stuck my hand back by the fan..didn't find a squirrel or anything. I did find my old deck lid spring once on top of the block were someone dropped it and said F***it!

Time to replace a bad brake line and fix the jewels in my speedometer. Thanks for the reply.

Thu Jun 04, 2009 12:59 pm

The only adhesive for engine tar boards is to use the stock metal prongs to attach those properly.
Very likely your tar board in front of the fan shroud is getting sucked into the fan opening and cutting off the cooling air to the engine.

Thu Jun 04, 2009 1:45 pm

^^^ X2

Thu Jun 04, 2009 4:09 pm

You can just make out the stock tabs that punch through the tar board and are then bent over to retain it in place.

Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:46 pm

Thank you

Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:57 pm

When I first got my car running my newly rebuilt engine was running hot also. I bought a temp dipstick from http://www.mainelycustombydesign.com/engine_components.html Scroll down and you will see. The only trouble with that is you have to pull over to see. I then bought Gene Bergs temp dipstick. It light up your oil light when temp reaches 227? degrees. I only static timed my engine and now that I have a few thousand miles on her she runs around 200 on a long trip. Get your valves adjusted and make sure all your tins and seals are there. You just might have to break it in.

Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:29 pm

There are two types of engine compartment sound deadening material. The first type is a flexible tar like material and will under normal engine temp come down on the sides (The back piece stays cooler due to the air being moved by the fan). You can cut a piece of 1/8" or smaller plywood and use it for a backing for the side pieces. Glue the tar board to the plywood using 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive and put in place and it will not come down. The other is a sound absorber kit from Wolfsburg West which is like the original factory type and is the best/correct one to use.
Make sure your 40hp is times at 10deg. BTDC because retarded timing will make a engine run hotter. The Gene Burg temp devise is great! I not only use them on my VW's but all of my cars and my truck.
FYI, I use the 3M stuff for the carpet install and you don't even need to use the OE tack's as this stuff really holds.

Don

Fri Jun 05, 2009 6:03 am

Chicken wire on the back of the tar board works well too.

Sun Aug 30, 2009 1:14 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: You can just make out the stock tabs that punch through the tar board and are then bent over to retain it in place.

Cool....I'm assuming the only way to replace that sound deadening material is to pull the engine?

Sun Aug 30, 2009 2:08 pm

it's much easier with the engine out of the car but it can be done with it in.

Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:01 pm

shano63 wrote: it's much easier with the engine out of the car but it can be done with it in.

Thanks! I noticed part of my board was being sucked into the fan shroud. I'll have to decide if it's worth giving it a go with the motor in or not

Sun Aug 30, 2009 8:04 pm

You are correct on timing the large diameter cast iron 40 hp distributors at 10 degrees BTDC. Maybe its time to find a new shop...

Sat Mar 20, 2010 7:53 pm

83_WabbitGTI wrote: Chicken wire on the back of the tar board works well too.

I know this is old... but my fan is sucking in my tar board a little bit as well. How does the chicken wire work?? Sounds interesting...

Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:24 pm

The chicken wire goes over the top of the normal tar-board. Then you drill small holes through the tarboard and through the metal to the other side. Now you can run safety wire from the chicken-wire mesh and anchor it on the other side. The safety wire holds it all together.

Max

Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:45 pm

I added two horizontal steel strips (1/2 inch wide) to hold the tar board in a little better. Each piece is about 2 feet long and screwed in place with sheet metal screws. Painted the steel to closely match the color of the tar board. They hide behind the fan and are hardly noticable. Gotta do this with the motor out, however.