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Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:06 pm

This is my bus named Bilbo or "Bo" for short.

Here is the interior, this is what i have worked on most since I purchased him back in November from some hippie dude in Oregon..

Like my custom front door wood panels? Volkswagens rule!!

Now here is the deal, I have pretty much all summer to work on him in my backyard to get him running good and have him become a reliable daily driver to take to college, because i am going to be attending Boise State University for the 09 fall semester. I have been driving him to and from my house to my high school and other little drives around town, but no big road trips yet since i bought him. I made this thread so that i can get the help and advice from all the awesome people here on thesamba!
This is where i am going to be working on him for most of the summer...

Vehicle Records of:
1970 Volkswagen Westphalia Campmobile Edition
Vin: 2302080017
Engine code: AE 877557 Bettle Case??? Dual Port
Carburetor: 34 PICT-3
Distributor: Runnin an older 67' dizzy that goes on a bettle that i plan on replacing..

Decode Results: Production Date:November 30, 1969
Exported To:USA, port: ??? Pennsylvania
Designation: Kombi Engine KW (BHP):35 (47)
Transmission Type: manual
Engine:157
Transmission Code:-
Extras Code: -
Paint / Interior Paint Scheme:pearl white Paint Codes:L87 Paint
Notes: code for Westfalia campmobiles (type 23)
Interior Scheme:
Interior Material:
Interior Notes: This model has a special paint code which means no interior info is available Options 513: Protection runner for transmissionD26: ???H67: ??? Westfalia interior ???507: Vent wings in cab doors517: Campmobile

Bilbo does have some rust put i am not to worried about that i just want him running good. I have the tools and books:

Now that you know who Bilbo is i need to tell you whats been bothering him..
The generator light in the dash stays on all the time and i cant drive him at night or the battery will die (happened before)..So i need to replace the generator i believe, even though i havent checked the volts at 2000rpm at the battery, i am pretty sure that is the problem.
When i first start him he idles great but once it gets warm, i have to give him gas at stop lights or he will die...Then say i go to the store or something and its 15min away and i get there and it doesnt idle worth shit. So i go in for a half an hour or so and come out and he wont even start up and i have to wait for a while before he can start up and go again...then the process starts over again.. :cry: so carb problems right?
I have been looking at this thread..http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56411. Have started off in the right direction?
Next thing is that he has this installed instead of just the key ignition:

Looks like the PO tryed to fix it... :?

It worked fine at the begining but now i have to go under the car and jump the starter with a screwdriver, so what does that mean?
And lastly it has started to develop a knock in the right valve cover so cylinders 1 and 2? I believe i just need to adjust the valves and it will go away hopefully...Which oil should i use because i am about to go to Autozone to get oil so that i can adjust the valves and refill the case again???
Hope that isnt to much but i know you guys can help me.. :)
Wish me luck...

Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:11 pm

Flippin sweet! Whats Bilbo majoring in? :)

Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:26 pm

Dang that is one nice bus! I like how you included your tools, they are often overlooked but are the most important thing you can buy for your bus.

Mon Jun 08, 2009 7:21 pm

Finally able to update, been busy with work and its been really rainy here in Idaho these last couple of days.
Got him in his summer den: 8)

Drained the oil after a warm up of the engine..here is the old screen next to the new one:

Took off the valve covers and they looked pretty dang good but there GEX :( Should i be worried? Not durable? I have just heard nothing be bad things here on this site about GEX. But here is the right rocker arm/valve springs:

And the left side:

There wasn't any tight valves during the adjustment just a couple of loose ones so i was definitely happy about that :)
The old valve gaskets were rubber so i cleaned the valve covers and greased in some new cork ones:

Adjusted all the valves and put in the new screen with new copper washers and gaskets and valve covers went back on:

This is the oil that i got at Autozone:

I really didnt know what oil i should get since the Bently manual says that i should get oil that is either D or E for the API rating or whatever..I couldnt find any at Autozone with this, only M or L...should this oil work ok in my engine?
Didnt fill the crankcase back up with oil...wanted to see what you guys said first...
Now i just got to put the oil back in the case then a compression check for tomorrow. I have heard to do it cold but heard others say warm? Which is it :?:

Mon Jun 08, 2009 7:33 pm

Riguy718 wrote:
Didnt fill the crankcase back up with oil...wanted to see what you guys said first...
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
I would stick with a 20W50 oil. The above link points out the reasons why, as I am no expert. Some Autozones carry old stock of a phasing out Royal Purple, otherwise, find a NAPA or Carquest for a good oil.

Mon Jun 08, 2009 7:35 pm

I wouldn't worry all that much about the GEX thing. When it’s time, its time. It could go tomorrow or 5 years from now. Keep up with the maintenance and all that and save for something new down the road.

Mon Jun 08, 2009 7:43 pm

71_georgia_beetle wrote:
I would stick with a 20W50 oil. The above link points out the reasons why, as I am no expert. Some Autozones carry old stock of a phasing out Royal Purple, otherwise, find a NAPA or Carquest for a good oil.
Why 20W50 and what brand?

Mon Jun 08, 2009 8:29 pm

It is going to be really cool for you to have that bus with you at college, especially with the camper interior. Don't worry about your oil, that 10w40 is fine.

Mon Jun 08, 2009 8:52 pm

That is one fantastic looking bus.

Riguy718 wrote:
Why 20W50 and what brand?

As far as I understand, 20W-50 has the broadest range of temperatures in which it will protect the engine. I use Castrol GTX just because I do. It might be overkill as far as quality but it's good stuff. I've thought about switching to non-synthetic oil but haven't done it yet. The oil is only in the engine for 3,000 miles so, in my opinion, most brands will work just fine.

Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:19 pm

i run 30 oil in my bus, but then again i live in socal where we dont have a wide range of temperatures :lol:

ill be doing the exact same thing for my bus next summer getting it ready as my daily driver to (hopefully) chapman. but mine doesnt/wont look as nice as yours :wink:

wheres desertbusman? im sure he'd love to compliment you on your ability to get the manuals.

Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:37 pm

Riguy718 wrote: 71_georgia_beetle wrote:
I would stick with a 20W50 oil. The above link points out the reasons why, as I am no expert. Some Autozones carry old stock of a phasing out Royal Purple, otherwise, find a NAPA or Carquest for a good oil.
Why 20W50 and what brand? We are aware of the group of people who believe thinner oils are better for their engines. This is only the case if the engine is of a design requiring thinner oils or can support use of these thinner oils. Where choosing the thinnest oil to maintain the required pressure might seem logical, you have to also consider that you have a thinner oil film and lower HTHS viscosity for that thinner viscosity oil, which provides less protection in areas where metal to metal contact occurs where pressure itself only insures bearing protection, which has not been a problem we've ever experienced using higher viscosity oils like 15w40 and 20w50 viscosities.

Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:38 pm

Well today i went out and took out the plugs in order and layed them out:

They all were pretty oily but i think that just cause they're old plugs. Here is the spark plug from cylinder #1:

Spark plug from cylinder #2:

Spark plug from Cylinder #3:

Spark plug from Cylinder #4:

The plugs from cylinder 3 and 4 defiantly weren't the cleanest..so i moved on to the Compression test with my new craftsmen comp. test kit and here are the results:
Cylinder #1: 106 107
Cylinder #2: 98 100

Cylinder #3: 103 101
Cylinder #4: 120 118

I was pretty happy up until number 4, the last cylinder i tested..Should i be concerned with the compression on #4? I thought that if you had a cylinder with higher compression that there was usually one with lower? How do you fix/deal with a high compression cylinder like this? Your guys input would be nice :)

Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:08 pm

cylinder #4 has a compression of 120, why would you not be happy?

Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:36 pm

enjoispammy8 wrote: cylinder #4 has a compression of 120, why would you not be happy?
Well dont all of the cylinders have to be around 100psi give or take 5psi for a 1600DP?

Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:41 pm

i don't know what the weather is like in Idaho, is it cold in the am and hot and muggy during the day, then cool back down? do most of your driving when it's hot? I personally put Castrol GTX 20-50 in my all my aircooled engines. My experience with it, is that it does take time for it to warm in the am, when its a little chilly, might take a few extra cranks, but the oil keeps the heat down fairly well and performs well.

just my $0.02

Tue Jun 09, 2009 11:03 pm

Riguy718, nice bus!

Just some observations you may want to consider...

You should be aware that anything that you change in the front passenger compartment can affect your safety in an collision, from the pictures you posted you may want to change the following:

The original door panels where made of particle board covered in vinyl, your door panels look cool but in a collision may splinter and cause serious injury...

It's good that you will be fixing the ignition switch, where the PO put it is probably wear your knee would end up in a front ender, and that button would do a lot more damage to your knee than the softer dash pad...

Check your 34 PICT-3 carburetors Throttle shaft for play, if it has ANY noticeable movement up/down in/out send it to keifernet for rebuild... Also ask him to check that it is jetted for a Bus and not a bug ;0)

Buy some Swivel feet from CB performance, your valve adjusters are shot and probably won't stay adjusted for more than 20 miles due to all the facets that have been worn into them... (they were meant to be replaced every five adjustments, swivel feet keep their adjustments far longer than stock)

If you plan on driving your Bus on the Freeway you should invest in(so you don fry it):

A Dakota Digital cylinder head temp gauge and a properly located oil temperature gage or Gene Berg temperature dip stick.

To keep your bus tuned; buy a Wide Ban Oxygen Sensor, the procedure in the Bentley Manual Fuel System Page 14-15 step 6. will not get you to the desirable Air Fuel mixture for idle easily, when the manual was writhen fuels were different (Laded & no Ethanol) and from my experience by the time you get your engine to drop 20-30 rpm the fuel mixture is not what it should be...

An AF meter will not only let you get your bus to idle well, but it will also make sure you are not running too lean when under load on the freeway and to top it all off, if your bus starts to run ruff or hesitate all you have to do is glance down an look at your AF meter and you will know if it is carb related...

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1673
For a measly $265 your bus will think your are the greatest carb tuner that ever lived :0) (+ $20 wending at your local muffler shop to weld in the bung for the sensor)

If you have not already upgrade your mechanical distributor points to electronic do it as soon as you can...

Invest in your braking system, not being able to stop is hazarded your and your buses health...

Overhaul your fuel line system (more than just changing the cloth fuel lines, see German Supply Kits for a fuel line system renewal, correct clamps, cloth and metal lines, NEW Firewall Rubber Grommet...

Spend some time reading the some of the best advice on the net for T2 Buses!!!!!

http://www.ratwell.com/ (lot of good info, see Essential upgrades and FAQ sections especially)

http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ (search on Key Words "Tulz" and "HVX" )

PS post good pictures of you engine compartment, you will get a lot of valuable feedback from thesamba!

Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:07 am

60vwnewengland wrote: I personally put Castrol GTX 20-50 in my all my aircooled engines.

I use the same exact thing. I actually did try the Synthetic for a few months last year with very good results. No matter what any of the haters say it did lower the CHT Temps a good 10-15* (Checked using a DD Gauge) and had no noticeable effect on performance. The only issue I ran into was actually getting it! There was one FLAPS that carried it but when I ran low on vacation I couldn't find a store for the life of me that had 20-50 never mind Synthetic.

Did my first parking lot oil change that day and switched back to regular 20-50 for convenience after that.

Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:14 am

Justin wrote: I use Castrol GTX just because I do. It might be overkill as far as quality but it's good stuff. I've thought about switching to non-synthetic oil but haven't done it yet.

Ummm...Castrol GTX isn't synthetic. You ARE using a non synthetic oil.

Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:58 am

Lionhart94010 wrote:
Invest in your braking system, not being able to stop is hazarded your and your buses health...

Move this to the top of the list. Going fast is optional but stopping is imperative.

Wed Jun 10, 2009 8:25 am

John Muir wrote: The test results should be over 100 pounds, and within five pounds of each other. Number 3 will usually be the lowest as it runs the hottest. If your tests show less than 90 pounds, squirt some oil into each spark plug hole, then test again to see if that raises the compression. If you have over 100 pounds compression and it's approximately equal in each cylinder, your engine is good

John Muir wrote: If one cylinder tested higher than the others, it usually doesn't affect the engine much but does provide a place of imbalance. However if three of your cylinders tested from 110 to 115 pounds, while the other tested low, like 100 pounds or less, you probably have an exhaust valve seating improperly in that cylinder.