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Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:21 am

Lionhart94010 wrote: Check your 34 PICT-3 carburetors Throttle shaft for play, if it has ANY noticeable movement up/down in/out send it to keifernet for rebuild... Also ask him to check that it is jetted for a Bus and not a bug ;0)
If you have not already upgrade your mechanical distributor points to electronic do it as soon as you can...
Invest in your braking system, not being able to stop is hazarded your and your buses health...
Plan to send my carb off to Keifernet for a rebuild as soon as i drop my engine and also I am gonna order a new distributor from aircooled.net, just like the one Caleb got.
I havent checked out the brakes yet, but when i was driving they worked great, had no problems with the system at all...
Lionhart94010 wrote: Overhaul your fuel line system (more than just changing the cloth fuel lines, see German Supply Kits for a fuel line system renewal, correct clamps, cloth and metal lines, NEW Firewall Rubber Grommet...
That was the first thing i did to my bus when i first got it... i saw some pictures of some bays on fire on this site and it scared the shit out of me so i moved the fuel filter out of the engine bay and got the right clamps and fuel line..

Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:28 am

John Muir wrote: If one cylinder tested higher than the others, it usually doesn't affect the engine much but does provide a place of imbalance. However if three of your cylinders tested from 110 to 115 pounds, while the other tested low, like 100 pounds or less, you probably have an exhaust valve seating improperly in that cylinder.

Does anyone else have an opinion on this matter? Is it fine to have compression in one cylinder thats 120 and the rest of the cylinders average out to around 105?

Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:30 am

Look at the plus side...

You have a GEX engine that still has compression and drives down the road.

Consider yourself blessed.

Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:33 am

Riguy718 wrote: John Muir wrote: If one cylinder tested higher than the others, it usually doesn't affect the engine much but does provide a place of imbalance. However if three of your cylinders tested from 110 to 115 pounds, while the other tested low, like 100 pounds or less, you probably have an exhaust valve seating improperly in that cylinder.

Does anyone else have an opinion on this matter? Is it fine to have compression in one cylinder thats 120 and the rest of the cylinders average out to around 105?

No, absolutely not. Go buy a longblock immediately. 8)

Kidding. (see above--^)

Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:35 am

Lionhart94010 wrote: PS post good pictures of you engine compartment, you will get a lot of valuable feedback from thesamba!
Well here are some pictures of the engine compartment:

What do you guys think :?:

Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:37 am

Randy in Maine wrote: Look at the plus side...

You have a GEX engine that still has compression and drives down the road.

Consider yourself blessed.

:lol:

Its a genuine VW engine core, its just that the heads are GEX... :(

Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:47 pm

From the Engine pictures(not too bad Compared to most VW engines):

You are missing the clamps for the fresh air heater tubes and most likely the rubber gaskets at their base (not visible in the picture)

Missing the intake air preheat tube (helps in engine warm up and in clod weather)

Your Generator wires should be wrapped in a second sheeting(as Stock) to help prevent possible shorts due to rubbing the wires…

VW went to Extreme length to seal ALL holes in the engine compartment, so any you see, including the missing sheet metal screws for the engine removal section need to be corrected…

It does not look like there is a 12V wire on your choke? The choke is not an optional item no matter where you live ;0) also can’t see lead on idle cutoff switch?

When is the last time your checked your air cleaner’s oil? (cleanliness and level)

Wed Jun 10, 2009 1:11 pm

Lionhart94010 wrote:
You are missing the clamps for the fresh air heater tubes and most likely the rubber gaskets at their base (not visible in the picture)
Missing the intake air preheat tube (helps in engine warm up and in clod weather)

I have the preheat tube but it doesnt have the tube piece below it, not to worried about it since its summer right now...

Lionhart94010 wrote: It does not look like there is a 12V wire on your choke? The choke is not an optional item no matter where you live ;0) also can’t see lead on idle cutoff switch?
When is the last time your checked your air cleaner’s oil? (cleanliness and level)
There isnt one hooked up to the choke but i dont think its functional anyways..there is a wire hooked up to the idle cutoff switch, but then again i dont know if it works.
A month ago i cleaned the oil out and soaked the top end in some kerosene and refilled it with some new oil, so thats good.
Thanks for input Lionhart..do you think it would be wise to drop the engine, clean everything up, put in new carb and dizzy, fix the battery tray, paint it, get new seals as the ones around the base of the engine (by the heads) are gone :shock: and maybe a new exhaust?
What do you guys think? Input, input, input, i believe the more opinions, the better, so please help me out :)

Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:17 pm

Did you know that Bilbo is a type of camper bus based in Godstone, Surrey in the UK? www.bilbos.com

Just curious if thats how your bus got its name?

Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:51 pm

It easy to figure out if your idle cutoff is working or not, just disconnect it while it’s idling, you will know right away, because the engine will cut off ;0) ( do be careful with finger and live +12V wire)

If you have not done so yet, and you have the time, it is always wise thing to drop the engine for a mini look-see and PM. It will give you the opportunity to re-Torque the heads and make sure you have everything installed like:

All dog house cooling tin and rubber seals, Hoover Bit….
Thermostat is working correctly (if it has one ;0(

See samba threads on pulling engine for inspection, FYI you can use the word “AND” in caps to search on combinations of words like “overhaul AND Pull AND engine”…

Don not be fooled by thinking you live in CA means you do not need the pre heat air hose, if you are wondering why it does not run well when the engine is cold… VW put them on VW’s built for Africa and hotter places than CA… it helps keep the fuel in suspension while the engine is warming up the intake manifold etc..

It is a very hard lesson to learn, and took me 20+ years to get it; but before deciding you know better than the people who engineered and built twenty million air cooled T1 engines it is best to keep it as close to what they did as you can… if you want it to last and run well :0)

Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:45 pm

Been really busy lately and havent really touched Bilbo...i had BSU orientation and i am gettin real excited for college and i hope he is too! 8)
Well anyways down to business i checked the throttle shaft and it is loose and FYI Bilbo doesnt idle at all..do you guys think i should just get a rebuilt carb when my engine is out or try to trouble shoot the problem right now?

Finally got my spark plugs in the mail i went with the Bosch WA8C i believe it is...

Just one lone plug...

Applied some anti-seize to the threads and they all screwed in like butter :)

While i was changing the plugs i noticed that the engine or maybe the engine tin wasn't installed correctly, because on the both sides above the valves it looked uneven..(i know i am missing the engine seal and soon to be replaced!)
Left side...

By oil cooler and where the gas line comes in...

Right side...

The back side of the engine bay..

I know i need to replace all my engine seals because they are all shot. I have heard of the foam seals for the 1600, how are they, where would you buy one? input plz..
So from the pics what do you guys think? Does it look like my engine wasnt mounted correctly, tin not put in right or am i just seein things cause i think that its lower.. :lol: Any other input or comments is appreciated. Thanks guys you have been totally awesome...

Wed Jun 17, 2009 5:22 pm

Bump...

Wed Jun 17, 2009 5:36 pm

I think you are OK. See what happens after you install the engine to body seal.

Wed Jun 17, 2009 5:41 pm

Looks like your front tin isn't right, maybe Beetle tin instead of Bus tin. Never, EVER use anti seize on spark plugs.

Wed Jun 17, 2009 7:01 pm

VDubTech wrote: Looks like your front tin isn't right, maybe Beetle tin instead of Bus tin.

That's exactly it. You do not have the bus tin.

Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:25 pm

VDubTech wrote: Never, EVER use anti seize on spark plugs.
Why is this?

Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:28 pm

Riguy718 wrote: VDubTech wrote: Never, EVER use anti seize on spark plugs.
Why is this?
Because eventually the plugs are going to have to come back out. You can put a drop of oil on the plug threads if you want.

Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:35 pm

Riguy718 wrote: VDubTech wrote: Never, EVER use anti seize on spark plugs.
Why is this?

A few reasons, not the least of which is spark plug manufacturers specifically tell you not to use it, along with Porsche and BMW. It makes it impossible to properly torque the plug, can lead to thread galling and pulled threads (especially on aluminum heads) and it's also electrically conductive, leading to misfires. Put them in dry, torque them properly, and you'll never have a problem.

From Pelican Parts:
" Install each plug into the cylinder heads without using any anti-seize compound. Torque the spark plugs to 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lbs). While writing "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines", I discovered that Porsche doesn’t recommend the use of anti-seize compound, as detailed in Porsche Technical Bulletin 9102, Group 2, identifier 2870. The bulletin applies retroactively to all Porsche models and the theory is that the anti-seize tends to act as an electrical insulator between the plug and the cylinder head. This could have detrimental effect on the firing of the spark due to the loss of a good, consistent ground connection. Keeping those findings in mind, I would make the same recommendations for the BMW cars."

From Autolite:
We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti seize compounds are typically composed of metallic,
electrically conductive ingredients. If anti seize compounds come in
contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition.
Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when
installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling
resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated
to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is
aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder
heads for a long period of time.

From ACDelco:
Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.

Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:44 pm

Not to mention in all the years I've owned vehicles, I've never ever had an issue with getting plugs out of a head, and I don't use anti seize.. I've never heard of people with stuck plugs.

Fri Jun 19, 2009 7:49 am

Riguy,

I personally applaud your efforts to get Bilbo functioning properly. Viewing your pics, may I make some additional suggestions?

Since you have a DP engine, you are going to need the correct front firewall tin piece. What you have on there now is DP Beetle tin. You need to find '71 Bus front tin which is one year only for Bus. This piece will fill the big gaps at each end up top. I'd start looking for that now, it may take you a while to find the correct original German, there is no aftermarket substitution. Since you don't have power brakes, make sure you seal the hole for the vacuum hose, and do put in the grommet for your metal fuel line. I myself personally would avoid any aftermarket tinware to begin with.

I recommend pulling your engine and go through all of your tinwork, and as mentioned check your oil cooler for the all important Hoover Bit. Source out fanshroud flaps, cross bar for Doghouse, thermostat and rod and bracket and thermostat itself if none of this exists. Proper warm-ups and cooling after the warm-up is absolutey essential for engine longevity.

Don't scrimp on cheap aftermarket stuff. Get the highest quality seals for the engine and German parts for any exhaust related issues. HJS
Leistritz makes the best exhaust gaskets/kits IMO. Wolfsburg West should be able to provide you with all of your needs, they are a highly rated vendor.

You are gonna want heat and defrost. Make sure your cables from the dash open and close the heater boxes as they should. Stuck, rusted cables that run through the body tubes can be real problematic. Check the condition of the main heat tube that runs under the body. Squeeze it,
does it sound/feel crunchy?? The kick lever under the dash (which controls heat/defrost) should be checked for proper operation.

In addition to your heat, check the condition of the fresh air controls and those cables. You want your fresh air to seal off during colder temps, nothing like 20 degree fresh air coming through your dash during the
Winter time, kinda defeats the heat. And more on the fresh air/heat related thing, make sure your rear hatch seal, window seal and engine hatch seal are good and won't allow any exhaust into the body or the engine compartment.

Do check the drain hole under the battery, and the one on the driver's side. Heavy rains can create big puddles in the engine compartment that comes down through the fresh air intakes if they're not clear.

Hope this helps and good luck!!