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Thu Oct 08, 2009 1:27 am

telford dorr wrote: The failure mode of the heater boxes is typically the sheet metal areas around the exhaust pipes: the more wear, the worse the vibration, leading to even more wear.
Yeah i think there too worn out to use because i need them to be pretty tight due to the cold weather that we can get around here. I will take pictures of my heat exchangers, all of my tin and post them tomorrow.

Thu Oct 08, 2009 1:50 am

Desertbusman wrote: -Check that the interior of the fuel tank is clean and rust free. If it needs attention now is the time. If you have noticed that when anyone mentions engine running problems the first advice usually is change the filter because of a crummy tank. It might be of no concern on yours but now is the time to find out. I don't think the tank is dirty because the fuel filter was relatively clean, but i still think i am going to pull the tank out to have a look, like you have kindly suggested.

Desertbusman wrote: -The only time you can replace the rear shift rod bushing is with the engine and trans out. Now is the time. How much does this part cost, because i am kind of on a budget?

Desertbusman wrote: -Put in new clutch and throttle cables now. Already got them 8)

Desertbusman wrote: -AE was used on bugs and also one of the originals on busses. A bus AE did have the 3 mounting holes. You have to have the 3 bolts. Carefully select the proper bolt lengths. The mustache bar supports the weight of the engine and trans. Get a good one. You have found out how heavy the engine is, but not the engine and trans. Once i took off my mustache bar today i couldnt see the 3 mounting bolts. I am not sure, so I will just post some pictures and see what you guys think.

Desertbusman wrote: -Forget about the Air Fuel Meter and CHT gauge. But be sure and install a pressure gauge and oil temp gauge. With the sender in the sump plate. Do you have a certain gauges that you would recommend? I am thinking of getting 3 gauges put into where my radio was, because the PO hacked it by trying and shove a cd player in there.

Desertbusman wrote: -Your heads are the best. O.G. Better than later heads. Only thing questionable would be if GEX did a poor guide and valve job. Or did any wierd machining in the chambers. I much prefer quality rebuilt original German heads over later, Brazilian, or aftermarket heads. My heads are not OG, they are GEX heads themselves...really really really wish i had the OG ones...

Desertbusman wrote: -Can't tell for sure from your pics but it sure looks like the Hoover Bit is missing. What does this little tin piece actually look like? I have always just heard of how important it is to the cooling of your engine.

Desertbusman wrote: -Your Haynes, if it is the British one, is good at times to use to suppliment the Bentley. That third one is good for entertainment. Yeah usually look at what the Bentley says first and then look over the Haynes as a refresher.

Thu Oct 08, 2009 3:04 am

Parts that I Need:
I am sure i will add to this list as the project goes on. Feel free to leave input on what specific part I should get and send me a PM if you have any of the parts i need.
Thank you.

OG Heat Exchangers
Exhaust, Intake, Fuel Pump, and Generator Stand Gaskets
Generator-Looking for someone to rebuild
Distributor-Looking for core.
OG Mustache Bar
Spark Plug Rubber Seals
Fresh Air Clamps
OG Pre Heat Tube
OG Front Tin for 71' W/ Hole for Doghouse(Tin below firewall and above the transmission)
Carburetor-Hopefully sending it off to have keifernet rebuild it.

Thu Oct 08, 2009 2:53 pm

Tank- at least clean or replace the in-tank filter sock.

Rear shift rod bushing- $4 or $5.

Gauges- My preference for monitoring the important things is O.P., O.T., and volt meter. VDO gagues are the most common and easiest obtainable.

Heads- Top pic shows a VW head, not GEX. Bottom pic isn't as clear but it looks VW and not anything else. Is that a VW symbol in the casting? GEX might have put their stamp on them but that only means they played with them.

Hoover Bit- Do a search in the pic gallery or the forums. It was used on the 1600 DP doghouse engines '71 and later. Bugs, busses, etc. It's just a small L shaped piece.

Parts- Don't forget the intake manifold rubber boots. Get good ones.

Oil cooler- What, an auxiliary add on cooler or replacing the stock one? If an add on, how are you going to get oil to it?

Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:33 pm

So the weather was nice today so i took the time to take pictures of my engine.

Here are some pics of how my mustache bar was mounted to the engine:

Notice that there is only 2 holes for the bolts, one on the right and one towards the bottom in the middle.
Right side:

Left side:

Does anyone know my problem here? Do I need to get some sort of adapter?

With my engine out I wanted to seal this engine up a little better so that it doesn't leak oil as bad. Anyone else have any other suggestions to better seal up your engine??

So I am thinking of replacing my push rod tube seals but dont know if there ok or not??
Push Rod Tubes for 1&2 Cylinders:

Push Rod Tubes for 3&4 Cylinders:

Pic of case split below the flywheel:

Does this look like i need a new main rear seal?? Is there a good thread that goes through this procedure??

3/4:

1/2:

See anything wrong or unusual??

Here is my oil cooler:

Does it look like it needs to replaced? Where is a good place to get a new one?

Is this the hoover bit???

Please comment on any of my pictures. Thanks :D

Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:10 pm

I also took some pictures of my tin:

You guys see anything missing??

With the fan shroud off you can really see how well the Germans designed the inside. The flaps work but the bolts are rusted on..(hopefully PB blaster will help). Well here some pics with the flaps...
Opened:

Closed:

Here are some pictures of my Heat Exchangers:
1&2 H/E

This bolt wouldnt come off, so it unscrewed out. I have used some PB blaster but it isnt helping that much...Anyone else have an idea??

3&4 H/E

Shot Right?

Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:57 pm

Riguy718:

I have a nice moustache bar you can have. PM me with your address and I'll get it to ya.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:28 pm

I have some extra pushrod tube seals that you can have. I don't have a type 1 engine anymore. PM me your address and I'll send them to you.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:53 pm

Thanks guys...

Can anyone else help me out with my questions or wanted parts??

Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:48 am

Why do you think you need a new oil cooler? Yours might be better than a new one. Have a shop flush it.
How are you planning on putting in new pushrod tube seals??? If the engine was running good before, it would not be wise at all to tear it down any further. Leave the seals the way they are or get a good set of spring loaded pushrod tubes. You clearly wouldn't want to reuse your old tubes. And putting in new stock tubes might easily lead you into a complete engine rebuild.
You have already gotten to/or past the point of needing Tom Wilson's book on engine rebuilding. Just for info alone on the cooler, tube seals, and crank seal you should have the book. Be real careful or you will have wished you hadn't touched your engine.
Even going to Autozone for something as simple as pushrod tube seals is taking a big gamble. Makes no difference whether or not there is a bug guy there. Are those seals any good? It is easy to obtain poor quality seals from a lot of sources. And not as easy to get good ones. Since you don't know much about this stuff yet you would be very wise to only deal with a quality reputable VW parts house.

Thu Oct 15, 2009 11:06 pm

Desertbusman wrote: Why do you think you need a new oil cooler? Yours might be better than a new one. Have a shop flush it.
I dont know if I need a new oil cooler or not..i was just asking what you guys thought of it. What are some signs that your oil cooler is to far gone to repair?? Should i also get my gas tank flushed at the same time?? cause i heard of people taking that into a radiator shop also..

Desertbusman wrote: How are you planning on putting in new pushrod tube seals??? If the engine was running good before, it would not be wise at all to tear it down any further.
I wasn't planning on replacing the pushrod tube seals, I was just asking for your guys opinions on how they look. The engine was running fine before so I really dont want to screw things up by trying to fix a little oil leak.

Desertbusman wrote: Since you don't know much about this stuff yet you would be very wise to only deal with a quality reputable VW parts house.
I have a pretty good connection for VW parts at Bow Wow in Boise.

Is the tin bolted on to the oil cooler in the last picture, the important Hoover bit?

Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:43 am

Yes, that's the Hoover Bit. Providing the other side of yours not visable in the pic isn't broken off. Here is a picture Karl had put in the gallery.

Please excuse my comment about Autozone and pushrod tube seals. Evidently I had details of your project mixed up with another current topic where there was an Autozone pushrod tube seal situation. I apologize for that.

If a cooler had been leaking from anywhere other than the seals where it mounts you would probably replace it. Also if it had been on a bad engine that had had metal particles in the oil. Otherwise a VW shop would probably just clean it up and flush the inside. Totally different than gas tanks and radiator shops.

If later you have a problem with a pushrod tube seal leak you can use a spring loaded tube to repair it without having the engine and the head removed.

Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:18 pm

Desertbusman wrote: You have already gotten to/or past the point of needing Tom Wilson's book on engine rebuilding.
Just ordered in a couple of days ago :D

Desertbusman wrote: Yes, that's the Hoover Bit. Providing the other side of yours not visable in the pic isn't broken off.
Unfortantly the other side is broken off :cry:
So does that mean i need a new one??

Desertbusman wrote: If later you have a problem with a pushrod tube seal leak you can use a spring loaded tube to repair it without having the engine and the head removed.
Really? I have never seen these...Is there a thread or a website that show how these work?

Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:24 pm

So i have been removing all the rust and paint from my tin with a wire wheel (i wish i had the money for sandblasting :( ) and painting them semi-gloss black which is stock color for the tin correct?

Well i was cleaning up the tin that goes over the pre-heat tubes for the intake and i was wondering what the soft material between the two tins are in the picture?

Is there something to replace it with, whats its purpose anyways?
Or should i just take it out cause its pretty oily and is tearing apart?

Also no one seemed to see my questions about the front of my engine where the core mounts to the mustache bar...here are the pics again:

I know you need all 3 bolts to be attached...as you can see i dont have the right(left in pic) bolt in..

So does anyone know whats wrong here :?:

Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:26 pm

Sure, you are missing a bolt hole :lol: I wouldn't know what to recommend. Seems like it might be a tradeoff with using either two bolts or a mounting adapter on the oil pump. If it was mine I might design and fabricate a custom brace to put a hole where the hole should be.

There were seals in that heat tube surround. Maybe asbestos or something similar. I don't think they are available now. Maybe some high heat patches or something similar can be stuffed in there.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:38 pm

Desertbusman wrote: If it was mine I might design and fabricate a custom brace to put a hole where the hole should be.
How would you do this without welding?
Does anyone know why its like this in the first place, any ideas?

Desertbusman wrote: There were seals in that heat tube surround
So basically you just need to seal the tin up against the pre-heat tube? Then I wonder what the purpose of having those 2 thin metal pieces? Is it really important to have this seal, input anyone??

Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:34 pm

I might fab up (maybe weld) a steel bracket that would attach to the bolt on the case parting line and maybe some other nearby engine bolt but avoiding the oil pump stud.

All the aftermarket tins don't have a sealing method for the heat risers. And all the aftermarket stuff is pretty bad for all kinds of reasons. The purpose of the seal is keeping the lower heat from getting into the engine compartment. Along with dirt, critters, etc. VW designed the engine compartment to be as cool and clean as possible.

Tue Nov 10, 2009 10:18 am

Quote: I know you need all 3 bolts to be attached...as you can see i don't have the right(left in pic) bolt in.. So does anyone know whats wrong here?

It means that the engine in your bus is a non-bus engine that someone modified by drilling and tapping holes in, so the mustache bar could be cobbed on. Unfortunately, the third boss on the left side of the case is missing, so this leaves you with a couple of choices:

1) leave it as it is, as it seems to work. I would avoid popping the clutch at all costs and/or otherwise stressing it any more than necessary...

2) have someone fabricate a "smile" shaped plate assemble that fastens to the lower case through-bolt , existing two mounting bolts, and third mustache bar bolt/nut to add a little support.

3) keep an eye open for a bus case / engine, and fix it at rebuild time.

Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:04 pm

telford dorr wrote: Quote: I know you need all 3 bolts to be attached...as you can see i don't have the right(left in pic) bolt in.. So does anyone know whats wrong here?

Unfortunately, the third boss on the left side of the case is missing, so this leaves you with a couple of choices:
Why is this?
I knew it was a bug engine, but do their engines not come with these attachments, since they dont use a mustache bar?

telford dorr wrote: 1) leave it as it is, as it seems to work. I would avoid popping the clutch at all costs and/or otherwise stressing it any more than necessary...
I took it on a 400 mile round trip and it did fine..i think i might be losing a little bit of torque, but nothing really noticeable, but then again this is my first bus :)

telford dorr wrote: 2) have someone fabricate a "smile" shaped plate assemble that fastens to the lower case through-bolt , existing two mounting bolts, and third mustache bar bolt/nut to add a little support.
I am guessing not many people have this problem, but is there a place where i can buy one? or i am out of luck here..

Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:46 pm

Quote: Quote:
Unfortunately, the third boss on the left side of the case is missing, so this leaves you with a couple of choices:
Why is this?
I knew it was a bug engine, but do their engines not come with these attachments, since they don't use a mustache bar?

Probably saved 5 cents a case not molding them in. Or it got in the way of something in the application for which this particular engine was originally used. Who knows.

Quote: I took it on a 400 mile round trip and it did fine..i think i might be losing a little bit of torque, but nothing really noticeable, but then again this is my first bus :)
Just be aware that it's a weak point that won't respond well to excessive torque. How much is too much? Unknown; only one way to find out (but not recommended...)

Quote: I am guessing not many people have this problem, but is there a place where i can buy one? or i am out of luck here..
I sorta suspect that this will be custom. Know anybody who fabricates / welds?