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Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:53 pm

They left here today.
Thanks

Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:23 am

Beveling is for thicker material. It's not appropriate for 1/8" - 3mm thick wall tube such as used for beams. A proper bead on this tubing should penetrate fully. A 6" wider beam should always get support form frame rails form the cage. The leverage on the tubes is substantial. And those welds in the center still see substantial forces on them as the stock frame head mount brackets serve as fulcrums when a load is applied to the outer ends of the tubes. Even with cage-supports to the beam just inboard of the shock towers, the center of the tubes can see substantial loads when a wheel hits a bump or other object.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 3:05 am

xirxious wrote: Is the main reason for widening the beam for stability or tire clearance? I have some decent coilovers that are about 12" and am wondering if this would be better off since I already have them

What do you think you're gonna do with 12" coils on a ball joint beam? The ball joints will limit your travel to 1/2 that at the wheel, not to mention 1/3 of the way back up the arm at the shock mount. Stock ball joint shocks only travel like 4.5", and no matter what you do to the beam, shocks, spindles or arms, as long as those ball joints are at the end of them, you're not going to have any more travel capability than stock.

Wider beams are for better stability and to balance out wheel track width with larger wheels and tires on the back than the front. Track width should be slightly wider in front than back or vice versa, not a huge difference.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 6:22 am

I am going to put beam braces on it when I install it, I'm worried about the increased leverage on those beam tubes. But I've only got about $50 into this beam, not counting my time, so if it brakes, I'm not out much. And what about clearanced ball joints? What are the advantages/disadvantages of those?

Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:47 pm

Slightly more travel, weaker ball joints.

They are already the weak link in the Ball Joint front end. For offroad use, do you want to go even weaker? Even in low-speed trail crawling, you're gonna stress the ball joints, especially if you're using the greater travel. I've not been convinced they are worth it.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 1:07 pm

I'll take your word for it, you have far more experience with these things than I! I think if I destroy this one, the next step will be a-arm.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 1:45 pm

We (9 car guys) get about 6 inches of travel out of a BJ beam. They are cut and turned with aftermarket stops and ball joints.

for the shock towers we have a tube that runs between the two shock towers.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 1:54 pm

shred625 wrote: We (9 car guys) get about 6 inches of travel out of a BJ beam. They are cut and turned with aftermarket stops and ball joints.

for the shock towers we have a tube that runs between the two shock towers.

So what are your thoughts on the "clearanced" ball joints Shred?

Oh...And nice meeting you the other day at the race.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 2:03 pm

I apologize, it looked like a flush fit. Good job on this!

Tue Jul 07, 2009 2:40 pm

shred625 wrote: We (9 car guys) get about 6 inches of travel out of a BJ beam. They are cut and turned with aftermarket stops and ball joints.

for the shock towers we have a tube that runs between the two shock towers.

I have a set of hook stops coming from McKenzie's, I assume those are the aftermarket stops you're speaking of? Are you also talking about aftermarket ball joints as well? If so, what kind? As for the tube between the towers, is that to brace them? I was thinking of bracing them with a 1x1/4 piece of flat stock at a 45* angle between the tower and the top tube.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 3:51 pm

neanders wrote: shred625 wrote: We (9 car guys) get about 6 inches of travel out of a BJ beam. They are cut and turned with aftermarket stops and ball joints.

for the shock towers we have a tube that runs between the two shock towers.

I have a set of hook stops coming from McKenzie's, I assume those are the aftermarket stops you're speaking of? Are you also talking about aftermarket ball joints as well? If so, what kind? As for the tube between the towers, is that to brace them? I was thinking of bracing them with a 1x1/4 piece of flat stock at a 45* angle between the tower and the top tube.

There are some that use the hook stops but I have a front end guy that does my stops for me that is kind of like they use on the high end link beams. PM and I can get you in tough with him if you would like as they work really nice.

As far as using the flat stock that would not be as good as using a tube but might be ok depending on the installation.

Here is a not so decent pis of the front end of my car. Sorry it doesnt really show the stops but I might be in the garage later tonight.

The ball joints I use are lemforder.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 3:57 pm

some friends of mine who race class 9 cheaped out and bought some Empi clearanced ball joints and they didn't last 1 lap before failing massively. they had previously been able to finish a race on the stock empis when they were in a pinch, but the clearenced ones are pure garbage.

Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:21 pm

I just ordered a set of Lemfoerders off www.bmaparts.com. $16.95 each, only a couple bucks more than the cheap ones. I'll let you all know how that turns out.

Neil

Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:52 pm

Neanders
Are you going to put a gusset on the steering arms? I also welded the shock tower all the way around.

I also put a gusset on the shock tower even though I have been told it does not help by some.

Earthquake

Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:09 pm

My spindles are Tweeds, I think the steering arm is pretty beefy. I did weld the seams, and I am considering the best way to reinforce the shock tower. Is that square tubing you used? What size? I have some of 1x2 inch square tubing that I could use. I see that you have hook stops, too. How did you get that all lined up?

thx, Neil

Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:49 pm

Neanders
My shock tower gussets are made from 1x3x.125 rec tubing, I used a peice of 1/2" all thread that I welded a peice of 1/2" ID tube on one end that went over the lower shock mount and two 1/2" nut ans washer through the upper mount, then I adjusted the nut so I was about 3/8" from max droop on the ball joints and the all thread held the lower arm in place so I could tack weld the hook in place. I did not install upper hooks, I dont like how bad that they bottom out.

This tool also help install the lower arm when you cut and turn the beam

Earthquake

Thu Jul 09, 2009 7:46 pm

I to would like to widen a beam, But why do you need to transfer the center line up 1 9/16? Is it just because you wont the adjusters up.

Thu Jul 09, 2009 7:57 pm

Because that's what the directions say, wtf do I know?? Just kidding!!

It's because of the way the center anchors are made. With the adjuster, the set screw is 180* out from where it is on the beam the beam, and the long set screw is 90* off of that (between the two). So, you need to find that point between the two that's going to be neutral.

Or something like that...

Thu Jul 09, 2009 8:08 pm

Whitch bushings did you order?

Thu Jul 09, 2009 8:16 pm

I got Bugpack red urethane bushings. And, since this was a German beam, they actually seem to fit!