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Mon Jul 13, 2009 6:26 pm

I would like to know what you plan for tyrods and brake lines?

Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:31 am

I have read through this thread several times and I have a question about the spring packs. Originally the OP wanted to use 1 set of springs. Would he have cut them in half in order to achieve that?

Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:52 am

clemsonteg wrote: I have read through this thread several times and I have a question about the spring packs. Originally the OP wanted to use 1 set of springs. Would he have cut them in half in order to achieve that?
cut them in half and re drill your dimples for the adjuster screws. this will require you to add extra distance between your adjusters. probably an extra inch and a half since your dimples in the leaves may need to be about 3/4" from their previous location

Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:00 am

HamburgerBrad wrote: clemsonteg wrote: I have read through this thread several times and I have a question about the spring packs. Originally the OP wanted to use 1 set of springs. Would he have cut them in half in order to achieve that?
cut them in half and re drill your dimples for the adjuster screws. this will require you to add extra distance between your adjusters. probably an extra inch and a half since your dimples in the leaves may need to be about 3/4" from their previous location

Thanks, so in his instance it would have been ok if he would have placed the adjusters right next to the mounts

Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:27 am

clemsonteg wrote: HamburgerBrad wrote: clemsonteg wrote: I have read through this thread several times and I have a question about the spring packs. Originally the OP wanted to use 1 set of springs. Would he have cut them in half in order to achieve that?
cut them in half and re drill your dimples for the adjuster screws. this will require you to add extra distance between your adjusters. probably an extra inch and a half since your dimples in the leaves may need to be about 3/4" from their previous location

Thanks, so in his instance it would have been ok if he would have placed the adjusters right next to the mounts

judging by this picture, that sounds about right. on center, the adjusters would have had to be placed about 7.5" inches apart or so for it to work as a 6" over beam with one set of torsion leaves.

neanders wrote:

Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:11 am

Brad's right, I screwed up my calculations, so I had to get a second set of springs. Not a big deal, I have a buddy who had several used beams laying around and he gave me a second set of springs, so they're all cut and installed. I got my LH tap today, so tonight I'm going to try to get the new tie rods finished, and then this weekend I'm gonna get the hook stops installed, and then get the beam in the car. Stay tuned...

Thu Aug 13, 2009 11:33 am

neanders wrote: Brad's right, I screwed up my calculations
After I explained it to you, too!

Thu Aug 13, 2009 11:47 am

That's what I mean, you explained it, and I didn't digest it properly, so I got my measurements screwed up. Oh well, no harm no foul, I got it worked out. But yes, if I wanted to do it with one set of springs, I would have needed to move the adjusters out another 1.5 inches each. So, the adjuster would have been right up next to the bracket, and my 4 inch section in the center should have been closer to 7 inches.

Thu Nov 12, 2009 3:48 pm

So did this project ever get finished?
How does it handle?
Do the adjusters work well?

Im picking up a free beam today and im planning on doing exacly this.
Just a few questions, by setting the adjusters to the max one way, and then welding it in, did you in essence do the same thing as a cut and turn would?

And if i wanted to use just the one set of springs inside the beam currently, what would i have to make the center section? I think HBB said if done right, the adjusters would fit, but be right up against the mounts.

Im not going link pin becaus im a poor ass college student, and because i can get a free beam to cut up.

Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:37 pm

I have one if you ever drive through Evertt lol. Not really a day trip...but easy directions. Go west until you smell it, North until you step in it.

neanders wrote: runslikeapenguin wrote: That's very true but in the case of installing adjusters you don't need to worry about it as much. The reason being that they will always be inside of the frame head brackets and they wont see as much load as they would if you just butt welded the beam on the out side of the brackets. The only thing the welds have to support where they are is the rotational force of the leaf pack.

I'm also going to add support tubes to the top and bottom of the beam, to add more support since there is more stress now at the clamp. Someday, when I finish my bender, I will extend the cage all the way out to the beam. Someday...

Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:36 pm

ZackN wrote: So did this project ever get finished?
How does it handle?
Do the adjusters work well?

Im picking up a free beam today and im planning on doing exacly this.
Just a few questions, by setting the adjusters to the max one way, and then welding it in, did you in essence do the same thing as a cut and turn would?

And if i wanted to use just the one set of springs inside the beam currently, what would i have to make the center section? I think HBB said if done right, the adjusters would fit, but be right up against the mounts.

Im not going link pin becaus im a poor ass college student, and because i can get a free beam to cut up.

I have not finished it yet, it's still sitting in my garage, waiting on me to find some time. My mistake was that I should have moved the adjusters out a couple more inches, or outside the mounting brackets so that I could have used just one set of springs. I wound up getting a second set and cutting them. But I did put the adjusters in so that all the adjustment goes up. Now I just hafta put the hook stops on and I can get it in the car...

Tue Nov 17, 2009 12:20 am

So whats the advantage of the urethane bushings over the stock needle bearings?
And did you turn the adjusters at all to raise it up some and give you a little extra clearance? Or does the "adjustable" part of the "adjusters" take care of that?

Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:23 am

Urethane bushings won't mash like the needle bearings, and they don't require grease. I installed the adjusters so that they go from stock height up. So, I can set it at stock, and adjust it as much as 3 inches up. But, since I have Tweed's lifted spindles, I won't be turning it up very much.

Tue Nov 17, 2009 2:27 pm

So with the adjusters set at stock, and with the Tweed lift spindles, how much 'lift' from stock height is achieved?
And with adjusters all the way up it would be that answer^ pluss 3in right?

What size tires are you planing on running on this once complete?

Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:20 pm

I'm running 7.00x15's. The car has an adjustable beam on it now, and it's turned up a couple inches. Between the taller tires, the lifted spindles and the beam, I've got almost 18 inches under the pan. I'm just doing the new beam so I can match tracks front and back.

Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:36 pm

Cool thanks!
Expect more questions once i finish some midterms, tests, homework, real work, and sleep. man i think this might take longer to get to than i though...

Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:24 pm

Dad wants to know what i want for xmas and my bday.... BAJA PARTS!!!

So what are the options for adjusters and bushings (brands and styles)?
Where did you get yours?

Thanks

Wed Dec 30, 2009 11:13 pm

So I finally got back into this, installing the hook stops. I'm going to do the top hooks for compression, and limit straps for droop. I got the hook stop kit from McKenzies, which came with 4 hooks and some 7/8 solid bar. I decided to get some longer lengths of the bar, cuz I wanted it to go through the beam to some 1/4in flat stock welded between the beam tubes. I drilled through the beam and then used tapered bits to enlarge the hole to fit.

Once I got the bars installed, it was time to figure out where the hooks go. Since this is an adjustable beam, I took the stops out of the adjusters so that they rotate freely. I mounted up a spindle, and then ran it through it's travel, and after hitting full compression, I backed it off and tacked the hook in position.

I've pulled it all back apart, and I'm gonna weld it all up tomorrow. Then I need to figure out the limit straps, and get them ordered. While I'm waiting for them, I'll finish up the chromoly tie rods. With any luck, I'll have it ready to go in the car this weekend. I still have two hooks and some extra bar stock, so if anyone wants them, just say the word!

Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:22 am

can't you just weld a hook on the other arm instead of limit straps. also would like to see pics of it all on the car with 18" under the pan. sounds badass

Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:27 am

I could, but the two hooks don't clear each other very well, and since I'm close to full droop already, i don't want the lower hook banging the stop every time I go over a pot hole. I figure the limit strap will accomplish what I want without constantly clanking against the stop.