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Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:50 am

I'm going to be redoing my front end and this caught my eye. I know what you mean about banging the lower stops. It gets annoying.
I didn't have any issues with the stops interfering with each other, though.

The pin goes all the way through and welds on the inside as well. I only got about 5-1/2" of travel with new German ball joints when I first set it up, so I'm going to do it again. I've got another set of arms, new b/j's and hooks. I'm going to see how much more travel I can get by doing some clearancing on the ball joints.

Thu Dec 31, 2009 11:52 am

yeah that would get old.

Fri Jan 01, 2010 7:38 pm

So I got everything welded up today:

I don't think that hook is going anywhere, nor is that rod.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I am going to use limit straps for full droop. I stole and idea out of another post for that:

I also finished tapping my chromoly tie rods. Now I just need to get some primer and paint on it, and I'll get it in the car. Hopefully by Sunday...

Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:02 pm

so can anyone direct me to some info on how much can be added to the beam before the adjusters run in to the bulk head(?) mounts? i need to start on this project. im currently in the suspension and allignment class at school. if i get this project done, im sure ill get tons of extra credit points and brownie points from the teacher. pluss then i will have an adjustable beam!

Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:26 pm

I've neglected this thread, and should have finished it. Here's the beam installed:

I added beam supports outboard of the nose clamp:

As you can see from the above, I had to modify the frame head to get the lower brace on, which required moving the support for the brake line. You can also see the new chromoly tie rods I made. In the top pic you can see there's about an inch between the adjuster and the bracket. I probably wouldn't move it over much more than 1/2 an inch, which would give you a 7-inch wider beam, which probably wouldn't be good. If you wanted to go wider than 6, you probably need to move the adjusters outboard of the brackets or cut the nose off and go with cage mounts.

Wed Feb 03, 2010 10:40 pm

From the little i know about vws and beams and stuff, it looks like you put urethane bushings in. My co-workers were talking about different kinds of bushings and the advantages. It seemed like it went from roller/needle, then urethane, then like an aluminum one or something being the best? Can i just make up some aluminum bushings on the lathe at work and call it good? or do they need special parts and stuff?

Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:19 am

I've never heard of aluminum bushings, all I've ever heard of is the stock bushings or urethane. I went urethane cuz they're low maintenance and easy to deal with.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:56 am

Delrin.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:29 am

neanders wrote: I've never heard of aluminum bushings, all I've ever heard of is the stock bushings or urethane. I went urethane cuz they're low maintenance and easy to deal with.
speaking of urethane, how do they treat you? were they hard to install? do you likey? was wondering for when i build my beam.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:31 am

Nope, they were easy. I sprayed a little lithium grease on them, and they slid right in, then more on the arms, and those slid right it. No squeaking or binding or anything.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:24 pm

sweet, sounds almost sexual.

Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:10 pm

well, if it were sexual I'd think you want at least a little squeaking... ;-)

Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:01 am

Russ Wolfe wrote: Delrin.
Yep that was it.
They also mentioned aluminum tho. I dont think they were serious.

Urethane it is!

Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:10 am

I am in the process of doing some work on my beam, and I got the urethane bushings. Do you need to grease them? I would assume so, especially since my car will be raced.

Tue May 04, 2010 1:33 pm

Bushings and new balljoints should arrive today. I still need to cut and re weld the beam and get it in. My suspension class ends in a few weeks and i want to finish it while the class is still going on so i can get credit for the project. Gunna take the beam and everything else to school on thursday and get started!

Tue May 04, 2010 2:14 pm

ZackN wrote: Russ Wolfe wrote: Delrin.
Yep that was it.
They also mentioned aluminum tho. I dont think they were serious.

Urethane it is!

VWISP West is making Delrin bushings for the T-3 front ends, since the original needle bearings are NLA.

Sat May 15, 2010 8:48 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: ZackN wrote: Russ Wolfe wrote: Delrin.
Yep that was it.
They also mentioned aluminum tho. I dont think they were serious.

Urethane it is!

VWISP West is making Delrin bushings for the T-3 front ends, since the original needle bearings are NLA.

Sounds good, my square may be baja someday....

Sat May 15, 2010 9:32 pm

hey neanders can i see pics of ur ur limit stap set up?
im trying to do the same to my baja

Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:22 pm

So if i drill my springpacks say 5/8 in from the end of the pack (cut in half) i will also have to remove 5/8 more of the tube to get the same spacing for tube/arm/spring pack?

The piece i cut out is exactly the length of the adjuster im going to put in.
I guess i should take pics and post as well. It could help other people in the future who want to build it with only one set of springs.

Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:39 pm

EDIT: Wrong topic...

ok so i have some pics...