TheSamba.com :: View topic - Show off your engine bay!

Sat Oct 03, 2009 7:40 pm

fastmc25 wrote: With 2056cc Type 4 8)

Ok, I have to ask... What's with the screwdriver by the driver's side hood hinge? Is it to prop the hood open?

Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:15 pm

82cabby wrote: fastmc25 wrote: With 2056cc Type 4 8)

Ok, I have to ask... What's with the screwdriver by the driver's side hood hinge? Is it to prop the hood open?

Uhhhhhhh..... Yep......... hood spring doesnt fit with my DTM shroud... without rubbing on it... :)

A cheap way too hold the hood open... #2 phillips works great.... :lol:

Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:07 am

Sun Oct 04, 2009 3:41 pm

Here's mine, you guys got nuttin on me :lol:

Just got it home today, going to try to pull it out tomorrow.

Sun Oct 04, 2009 3:42 pm

Original 74 with 21,000 miles on it.

Sun Oct 04, 2009 6:23 pm

Tattoogunman wrote: Here's mine, you guys got nuttin on me :lol:

Just got it home today, going to try to pull it out tomorrow.

Pull it out? Hell just jump up and down on the bumper a few times.....

Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:45 pm

Tattoogunman wrote: Here's mine, you guys got nuttin on me :lol:

Just got it home today, going to try to pull it out tomorrow.

I think I'm gonna...ugghh... :-&

Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:48 pm

82cabby wrote: Tattoogunman wrote: Here's mine, you guys got nuttin on me :lol:

Just got it home today, going to try to pull it out tomorrow.

Pull it out? Hell just jump up and down on the bumper a few times.....
Give it a month or so and it will fall out.

Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:00 pm

Glenn wrote: 82cabby wrote: Tattoogunman wrote: Here's mine, you guys got nuttin on me :lol:

Just got it home today, going to try to pull it out tomorrow.

Pull it out? Hell just jump up and down on the bumper a few times.....
Give it a month or so and it will fall out.

if you put on a dizzy and fuel it might run. I'd laugh SOOO hard.

Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:39 am

Tattoogunman wrote: Here's mine, you guys got nuttin on me :lol:

Just got it home today, going to try to pull it out tomorrow.

Are you saying that is still attached in some manner to the car?

Tue Oct 06, 2009 11:24 am

Here is my 1968 original engine bay. 26,000 miles

Tue Oct 06, 2009 12:49 pm

my engine to build up.

regards,

jlo

Fri Oct 09, 2009 1:53 pm

1776 by Chico @ SteelBuggin in my 74 fat chick...

Sat Oct 10, 2009 3:29 pm

Z28Justin wrote:
its going in a fiberglass dune buggy so some tins wont be going back on it will be out in the open, but like i said not done yet im waiting for new tins from mid America

The tins he was talking about are the ones that go in BEFORE the pushrod tubes. They go in very next thing after the heads get torqued on. They snap onto the head studs.

They are CRITICALLY important. Your engine will burn up without them. What happens is that the air pumped by the fan merrily shoots between the open space between the cylinders and doesn't get forced through the fins, so your cooling efficiency is drastically reduced. The heads (where more heat goes) will be starved for cooling air.

Do NOT run the engine without them.

Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:47 pm

Lost me on that, after the heads are torqued, but before the pushrod tubes? those were never a factory item on type one, only type three. you better do some research before you give advise. I run a trike without any tinwork whatsoever on the engine.

Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:27 am

gimpy60 wrote: Lost me on that, after the heads are torqued, but before the pushrod tubes?
Sorry, I had a brain cramp and got the assembly out of order in my head.

Quote: those were never a factory item on type one, only type three.
I'm not talking about the "kool-tin". I'm talking about the air deflectors that go DIRECTLY under the cylinders:
WITHOUT the deflector

WITH the deflector

In this photo of z28Justin's engine:

on the right side you can see the head stud between the cylinders. That means that the cylinder air deflector isn't installed.

Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:41 am

My '75 1303A.

Yes, I am aware the #3 and #4 plug wires are too long. I can't find my extra terminal ends to shorten them.

The man who imported with him from Italy gave it to me with a blown piston (#3). Started off as a bone-stock 1200 single-port. Thing is, I didn't know it was a 1200! It had the dual-relief case indicative of all the later 1500s and 1600s... imagine my surprise when the new pistons wouldn't fit the conrods!

Since that initial oversight, I took a few "liberties". Had to swap the non-offset shroud with a doghouse-style and make a new cross-link for the baffles, as well, so yes: the thermostat system is intact and operational! Also traded my friend straight across for a 3.88:1-geared transaxle (he wanted my 4.38:1 for his buggy project).

Specs:
- 1799cc (88x74) with Mahle 'forged' pistons and cylinders, EMPI forged crank and I-beam rods, forged German 12-lb flywheel (8 dowels). 8.2:1 compression. Balanced by Jim's Motor Machine in Boise.
- 044 heads, unmodified with heavier single springs to match the cam
- Kennedy 1700lb 200mm clutch w/solid disc (quite smooth, actually!)
- Engle W110 cam and 30mm lifters, +.090 aluminum pushrods, stock tubes
- Compufire DIS, using a gutted 009 housing
- Twin ICTs
- Scat serpentine (polished the pulleys myself)
- EMPI breather system
- Carter electric fuel pump, pre- and post-filters
- VDO Cockpit-series electric gauges (oil pressure and temp, cylinder head temp, volts)
- DB 1 1/2 quart sump (running AMSoil now)
- "Mexibug"-style oil pump/filter
- Bugpack merged header w/stinger, silver ceramic coated, w/1 1/2" flanged heater boxes - the single most expensive component on the whole damn car! (the muffler fit like crap and drags over anything bigger than a dime... gonna build my own) Anyone need a pair of flanged J-tubes?

Dunno how much power/torque it's developing; I'd guess in the vicinity of 90-100hp or so. Pulls pretty damn hard in second and third! But here's the real kicker - on our recent trip to Seattle (about 580 miles, one-way), I averaged 32mpg, with a peak of 34mpg between Baker City, Oregon and Yakima, Washington, loaded with three people (including me) and bags! I built the engine for midrange torque. Sensible build and moderate driving pays off!

'Course... it had overheated the day before due to my f***ing with the timing too much, and burned a piston on the way home:

This is the second incarnation of my build. Better pistons this time and I'm not touching the timing again. Ever, if I can help it!

Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:11 pm

Damn, I play around with different timing and dizzy at least once a month...
and my motors never look anything like that. :shock:

Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:46 pm

KaferKruzer wrote: 1776 by Chico @ SteelBuggin in my 74 fat chick...

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac248/jp1328/blackhornet004.jpg

Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:54 pm

fastinradford wrote: Damn, I play around with different timing and dizzy at least once a month...
and my motors never look anything like that. :shock:

I guess you mean my nicely charred piston?

Yeah, I'm not sure why it did that, and only on the one (#2). I know I had the initial timing set wrong, due to my timing light having a poor contact on the pickup. Found a missing shroud screw (passenger lower, where shroud meets cylinder tin... was rattling around in front of the 1-2 tin) and a significant gap there. I think it was a combination of too-advanced timing, shitty summer gas here, and the air leak induced by that missing screw.

I mentioned before, it overheated the day before we left for Seattle. That's when I discovered and fixed my timing light issue and reset the timing. When the piston finally lost compression, it wasn't even close to overheating, but I had been noticing a 'popping' sound, similar to a blown exhaust gasket, under acceleration - piston slap, I'm guessing.

Either way, the damage was minimal - one burnt piston and ruined cylinder, and one pulled cylinder stud. Heads were undamaged, internals were (are still) fine.

I'm still trying to clean up all the oil it blew out of the breather (didn't have the box installed at the time)...