TheSamba.com :: View topic - Show off your engine bay!

Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:42 pm

my amazingly gorgeous engine that sat for 7 years before i got it. woot for first cars!

Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:30 am

bnam wrote: Actually, the lack of clamps is not an issue** (under a limited set of conditions)

These are brand new hoses and they're actually almost impossible to pull off. I had to cut them off when I replaced the pump recently.

My learning is that the new hoses will stay on tightly. However, if you use a screwdriver to stretch them to get them off, then when you reuse them they are no longer as tight.

I now have clamps on as well, but that is only in case I have to remove and reinstall them.

I like the new fuel pump! =D>

Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:31 am

vugbug68 wrote: Glenn wrote:

And the red with the black interior along with the stance makes that one of my favorite cars.

hmm i wonder why that is? lol

That is a very nice and clean looking bug you got there, vugbug68. I really like it a lot. :)

Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:38 am

lol thats Glenn's Bug, I was teasing him for loving a car so much like his own (well the red and black 74)
this is the car glenn was complimenting

I seriously thought glenn put a different engine in when i saw that pic

Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:41 am

Ah, my bad. :oops: Well nonetheless both of you guys have nice looking cars. :D

Sun Dec 13, 2009 1:19 am

generator orientation is for cooling, the slots do not line up right and your gen wont get coold.

Sun Dec 13, 2009 7:55 am

vugbug68 wrote:

I like the new fuel pump! =D>

Picked it up used and dirty from Bugformance in San Jose for $10. Cleaned up real well. And from the little to no wear on the lever arm, it was not used much. Good score for an original Pierburg!!

@fastinradford: I turned the generator 90deg clockwise. But now have couple of questions:
1. Is there only one way to fix the inner plate with the cooling slot onto the gen? The gen is a replacement and I don't know it the local electrician who did it knew enough to get it right.

2. The outer strap the goes over the electrical connectors -- should it go over the plastic cover for the gen brush opening or should the plastic cover snap over the strap?

Thanks!
BN

Sun Dec 13, 2009 11:30 am

Did a bit of cleaning up and stuff, and I'm bored, so I'll repost. Recently found out it has 204,xxx original miles on it, not 104,xxx like I thought. It's never been rebuilt. 1600 dp in my '72 Super.

Sun Dec 13, 2009 10:20 pm

fastinradford wrote: generator orientation is for cooling, the slots do not line up right and your gen wont get coold.

you mean the slot on the backing plate right? because thats how the gen gets cooled. most people put those plastic caps on the front 2 slots anyway, i put one on top and leave the bottom one open

Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:51 pm

heres mine in my 71 class 11 style bug
its a type IV 2.0 with dual dells hydraulic cam
all metal shrouding

Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:56 pm

vugbug68 wrote: fastinradford wrote: generator orientation is for cooling, the slots do not line up right and your gen wont get coold.

you mean the slot on the backing plate right? because thats how the gen gets cooled. most people put those plastic caps on the front 2 slots anyway, i put one on top and leave the bottom one open

Correct, not like this one :lol: :

Thu Dec 24, 2009 7:27 am

Here's mine:

it's a supposed crate motor from '00 that replaced the Original FI in my '77. I guess I should check the #'s but the PO probably didn't put any more than 10k on it and it's stuck together for a year of daily driving including 2k+ long distance miles. I've been running a 34/3 Bocar carb that has given me zero problems with he 009 dist. since I had a guy at a VW shop down the road show me how to adjust the carb. Best $20 I've spent! I have the original Solex 30/31 that needs a rebuild, should I clean it and run that or trade it for a proper dist. since the Bocar is giving me no problems?

Anyway, I spent yesterday re-installing the oil bath after a fresh coat of industrial flat black and degreased the engine for the first time. Very clean to begin with, just road dirt. Merry xmas car!

One more question. The insulation material on the sides of the enine bay are obviously bulging in towards the engine. I've tried reshaping it to no avail. What's the best thing to replace this with? Normal self cut firewall insulation? Aftermarket or VW product available

Thu Dec 24, 2009 8:01 am

Bugpunk77 wrote:
One more question. The insulation material on the sides of the enine bay are obviously bulging in towards the engine. I've tried reshaping it to no avail. What's the best thing to replace this with? Normal self cut firewall insulation? Aftermarket or VW product available

Here's the part your looking for.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111813805

You can go cheaper, but be careful on two counts.
1. Find something that will hold up to the engine heat.
2. Make sure it's secure. Specifically if it comes loose in front of the fan shroud, it will block the fan intake and cook the engine.

Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:22 am

hercdriver wrote:

You can go cheaper, but be careful on two counts.
1. Find something that will hold up to the engine heat.
2. Make sure it's secure. Specifically if it comes loose in front of the fan shroud, it will block the fan intake and cook the engine.

I'm gonna see what I can find at the local hi-pro parts shop and compare.

what/how does the insulation attach to the firewall and sides? do I really need it?

I'm also trying to trace the tag light wire. I need to rewire the light and can only go as far as the firewall with wires. I noticed the same type white/red and brown wires like the tag light behind the right side sound absorber connecting to the body ground and R tail light wires(in the pic). is this where I should connect the new wires and pull the old from?
I'm horribly illiterate at wire diagrams, so the easier the better.

thanks for the help.

Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:44 am

Bugpunk77 wrote:
what/how does the insulation attach to the firewall and sides? do I really need it?

The insulation was originally held in by pointed tabs. (See the picture below from the gallery.)

As far as needing it, I'll defer that to someone with more knowledge than myself.

My personal opinion is that if VW thought it was important enough to design, produce, and put into your economy car..... they felt it was important. Remember every piece they added to the car increased it's cost and potentially ate into their profit.

Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:51 am

hercdriver wrote:

My personal opinion is that if VW thought it was important enough to design, produce, and put into your economy car..... they felt it was important. Remember every piece they added to the car increased it's cost and potentially ate into their profit.

true that. plus I want to hear my tunes :lol:

Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:01 pm

Yes I/we drink Miller Lite :lol:
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Thu Dec 24, 2009 4:26 pm

Thu Dec 24, 2009 7:18 pm

Bugpunk77 wrote:
One more question. The insulation material on the sides of the enine bay are obviously bulging in towards the engine. I've tried reshaping it to no avail. What's the best thing to replace this with? Normal self cut firewall insulation? Aftermarket or VW product available

you could just bend up the tabs push the tarboard back under and bend them back down

my personal preference is remove it all, remove all the tabs and spikes and paint up the engine bay. looks much cleaner and theres good quality heat and sound insulation like dynamat can be stuck on the inside of the firewall under the carpet

works better than stock tarboard and easy to install, no dropping the engine out

OT......antispam:

Thu Dec 24, 2009 8:15 pm

Buggin_74 wrote:

thats just yummy!