TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:15 am

Sorry for such a simple question, but what size is the nut that locks the drum on a swingaxle? It's the big slotted one with the cotter pin that runs through it. I blew up a pair of channel locks trying to get it off last night, figure I might as well pick up the right tool to get it off :shock:

Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:19 am

36mm or 1-7/16" in a pinch.
You will never get it off or tighten it correctly with channel locks.
Needs torqued to about 220 lb. ft.

Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:34 am

turboblue wrote: You will never get it off or tighten it correctly with channel locks.
heh, I noticed this :D

Thanks for the info, I'll be picking up the tools to get this sucker off on my way home from work.

Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:56 am

Just a heads up on this but there is a good chance you will need a very large breaker bar to get that nut off.

Tue Aug 11, 2009 8:03 am

shred625 wrote: Just a heads up on this but there is a good chance you will need a very large breaker bar to get that nut off.

The breaker bar is no problem, but unfortunately the transaxle is not on the vehicle right now. I've put one of the wheel lugs in the drum and clamped that in the vice, so it's anchored there and where it hits my bench to prevent from rotating.

Hope that's enough, unless someone has a better way to anchor the drum while not on the vehicle.

Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:24 am

Got a good impact?
That will get them off easier than a breaker bar.

Tue Aug 11, 2009 10:58 am

I bent 2 different 3/4 inch breaker bars taking that nut off before I got my impact - REMEMBER - It MUST go back on as tight as it came off - 260 ft lbs (I think)

Tue Aug 11, 2009 1:44 pm

You need a air supply and a good half inch or 1" air gun with a 36mm socket. It will zip right off. But spray it with PB blaster about a hour before you take it off so it will break free easy.

With a big breaker bar you would need a large hammer to hit the bar with. Just trying to do it with manual force is very hard and not needed. But the air gun works allot better!!

good luck and let us know.

Tue Aug 11, 2009 2:14 pm

How long did the channel locks last?

Tue Aug 11, 2009 3:45 pm

One day when I'm rich I'll get this tool.

This handy tool is the only way to remove those stubborn gland nuts. The Torque dude multiplys the torque by 9 allowing you to tighten your gland nut with a small ratchet. As if this isn't enough, it also comes with an adapter plate to remove the 36mm nut of your 5 lug drums.
Works on both 6 or 12 volt flywheels.

Tue Aug 11, 2009 5:56 pm

IF not A Torque Meister, at least get 3/4 inch drive sockets and breaker bar.... Yes you can break 1/2 drive tools real easy (and no Chinese tools)......

Dale

Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:20 am

Lotrat wrote: One day when I'm rich I'll get this tool.

This handy tool is the only way to remove those stubborn gland nuts. The Torque dude multiplys the torque by 9 allowing you to tighten your gland nut with a small ratchet. As if this isn't enough, it also comes with an adapter plate to remove the 36mm nut of your 5 lug drums.
Works on both 6 or 12 volt flywheels.

I bought one, it is one of the best tools I have for my bug, I did some googling and found a site that sold them for $45 with free shipping.... I would say buy this if you have a bug with drum rear breaks... or you will spend alot more buying a torque wrench that can get the nut back to 220lbs....

Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:51 am

Lotrat wrote: One day when I'm rich I'll get this tool.

This will be the best tool in your tool box. Man its awesome. Ive used one many many times. My buddy dave has one. well worth the money.

Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:41 pm

Or you can also use a 66" snap-on 600# one inch drive torque wrench. Mine is only about $1,000.00 new. Torque multipliers are the bomb, cheap, work well, highly portable. Difficult to take my compressor and 3/4 rattle gun along with me!

Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:42 pm

Do it the old skool way. :lol: Get yourself a 36mm impact socket, an 18in monkey wrench, and at least 5ft of conduit or maybe PVC. Clamp socket in monkey wrench, put tubing over wrench, put it on the bolt and it should come right off.

And for the "why", this bolt should have 273 (I think thats right?) ft-lbs of torque. (273 ft/lbs)/5 ft equals roughly 54 pounds that you have to put out. Easier than tighening your lug bolts.

Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:56 pm

That torque number is changing in this thread like a fish story...LOL

My "Without Guesswork", Technical Data book from VW AG says "30.0 mkg, or 217 ft/lbs". Still DAMN! tight. Especially if it's rusted on. I've had to chisel them off before due to rust. I put a dab of antiseize on the threads before I put it back on. Wire brush the threads 1st.

The torque dude is definitely the schizz. And a 3/4" breaker bar is recommended otherwise. I keep a piece of 1-1/2" x .095 tube about 3-1/2' long handy for a cheater bar. I have broken a couple of 1/2" breaker bars trying to loosen stubborn axle nuts. One was a Proto and the other was a Snap on ( I call it "Snap off"). So they weren't Harbor Freight tools.

Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:25 am

dustymojave wrote: That torque number is changing in this thread like a fish story...LOL

Hmm, not sure why I remembered the 273, I might be wrong. Maybe that is the flywheel?

[edit] OK, checked the manual, you guys are right on both numbers. Just forget I said anything on the actual numbers. However, the pipe method still gives enough torque. :D

Fri Sep 04, 2009 8:24 am

Think flywheels are 253 ft-lbs (stock)...

Dale

Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:55 am

130 PSI and my Ingersoll-Rand 231c 1/2 impact. 36mm impact socket.

Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:28 am

i just use a simple impact wrench with an "am-pro" socket (bought it at advance auto.

but when i'm at the junkyard or something, i bring along an old aluminum tent pole (my dad was in the army, and happened to have that pipe lying around). its about 5 feet long, and with my craftsman 1/2'' drive breaker bar, it will take it right off. once the nut was on there so tight, it just wouldn't budge. didn't want to risk breaking anything, so i went and bought a portable air tank, filled it up with my compressor, and brought my impact with me. that tank only holds a little bit of air, and just used it to break loose the nuts on each side (used the impact wrench till they started to turn slightly), then used the breaker bar to get them off. Portable air tanks are a lot cheaper then i thought. like $25 at advance auto (atleast they were about a year ago).