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Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:32 am

I bought all the hardware that I needed for the conversion. However now that I have the jig it looks like the torsion housing has been shortened. I knew I would need to cut the frame horn, but the way it sits right now the brackets are about half way (maybe more) into the frame horns. It measures 41 1/2'' overall. Is this stock?

Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:37 am

Don't have one here to measure but it will look something like this when completed.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:56 am

That's what makes me nervous. It looks to me like my brackets will be further into the frame horns than your picture. :roll:

Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:02 am

WHITEDESERTRACING wrote: That's what makes me nervous. It looks to me like my brackets will be further into the frame horns than your picture. :roll:

Further than these pics?
Found these on the 'net.
Assume they are right.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:06 am

I would just make my "cuts" a little more cautiously and there is less filling/repair of any gaps caused in frame horn...

Dale

Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:29 am

There has been a lot of debate on what side the washers go on. Could this be my problem? I put one on each side of the jig. Picture two has them both on the outside.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:01 am

both washers go on the outside, (closer to the head of the bolt) just like turboblue's pictures above.
you can check the bentley manual to confirm this

Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:22 am

Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:13 am

There there is this.......

Dale

Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:14 am

Lotrat wrote:

I really don't see how washers have a thing to do with centering engine, transmission....

Dale

Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:30 am

Now that's funny. I tried it with the one washer on the inside and it pushed the tow-out by 1/4".

I think they meant to say "center the stub axle to the output flange"?

Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:34 am

My original problem was that the bracket was into the frame horn a little to much. So when I go to weld in the pivot brackets both washers should be on the outside. I guess that would pull it out of the frame horn a little.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:35 am

Lotrat wrote: Now that's funny. I tried it with the one washer on the inside and it pushed the tow-out by 1/4".

I think they meant to say "center the stub axle to the output flange"?

I always thought those were to set the rear toe.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:36 am

turboblue wrote: Lotrat wrote: Now that's funny. I tried it with the one washer on the inside and it pushed the tow-out by 1/4".

I think they meant to say "center the stub axle to the output flange"?

I always thought those were to set the rear toe.

There are slots in the spring plates for that.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:50 am

Lotrat wrote: turboblue wrote: Lotrat wrote: Now that's funny. I tried it with the one washer on the inside and it pushed the tow-out by 1/4".

I think they meant to say "center the stub axle to the output flange"?

I always thought those were to set the rear toe.

There are slots in the spring plates for that.

Yes but wouldn't that put the bushing in a bind if you don't move the washers too?

Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:01 pm

I can see that. It's probably why so many people have problems with the pivot bolt backing out.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:14 pm

do u use the same stuff on the swing axle for the irs?..like the bump stop location?...all i need for irs swap is

Tranny,Srping plates,pivot bracket,Axles,Cv,jig am i missing something?

Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:47 pm

When we switched our rail to IRS ( i made up a jig ) it does go into the horn some....little nervous when we did it but it came out fine. Only problem we have had was the loose nut behind the wheel !

Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:00 pm

The bump stops will be on the new trailing arms.
You'll need output flanges, stub axles, brake lines, bearings, spacers, shocks, pivot bolts, pivot bushings.

You'll need all this stuff: