TheSamba.com :: View topic - Lucky find? --> 72 SB Resto Project

Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:04 pm

When I first got my '71 Super, I had to jerk the hood sideways and up HARD to get it off. Try all of the directions and see if one works for you

Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:27 pm

Don't be too concerned about cutting the handle...new ones cost all of $12.95. 8)
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-113-823-565-F

Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:44 pm

nice "find", welcome!

Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:52 pm

If the push down, pull up method doesn't work, cutting the handle isn't that big of a deal. They are cheap. I just recently had to do this on my '69.

Here are the official instructions,

-jeffrey

Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:13 pm

Thanks guys.

I'll give the bonnet a couple of good tugs before breaking out the hacksaw. I'm eager to see what the wiring looks like. I've got a couple of nicely corroded fuses and a toggle switch.

Had a hell of a time getting the driver's seat out and gave up after getting it over the leaf spring stop but not off the rail. I attacked the back seat instead...

and found a silver dollar size hole in the battery area

at least it came wi/some sheet metal :wink:

Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:28 pm

lol the "sheet metal" is the passenger foot rest. don't loose it cause they don't make repops of 'em! over all it looks like you got a sweet lil beetle! you def came to a great place for info! good luck.

Wed Sep 16, 2009 5:19 pm

Pull that tarboard up & eliminate the rust (if the pan's okay)
I just did mine... was mostly just surface rust w/ a few spots of minor perforation.
Use a wire wheel on a 1/2 in. drill to eliminate the rust; next spray it w/ phosphoric acid to eat the rest of the rust away. Two coats of primer, then chassis black should be painted on before replacing the tarboard.
Good looking car; have fun!

jlex.

Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:11 pm

I ended up having to cut the handle...surprise! more nesting material.

is that an AC unit?

Any ideas what this is? There's one in both rear fenders blocking access to the bolts holding the rear bumper.

Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:39 am

That particular one is a vaccume canister, the one on the passenger side of beetle is for the ATF fluid. It goes with that gas cap looking thinggy on the lower right side of the engine bay.

Mine is also a 1972 Autostick, I love it and have put 14K on it since Dec 2007.

Let me know if you need any photos of the set ups.
KC :D

Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:59 am

Your toggle switch is for the rear defrost, which most likely won't work. It also looks like you have mould/mildew issues. You'll have to find some mildew killer and start scrubbing or replace the door cards. I see mould staining on the fibreboard.

Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:56 am

19super73 wrote: Your toggle switch is for the rear defrost, which most likely won't work. It also looks like you have mould/mildew issues. You'll have to find some mildew killer and start scrubbing or replace the door cards. I see mould staining on the fibreboard.

Everything is coming out. Seems like I find another issue everytime I pull something out. Even if I wasn't going for a full restore, I can be allergic to mold/mildew and I'd prefer not to keep Claritan in my roadside kit. :shock:

KC, thanks, I'll have to refer to my Bentley to figure out how to dismantle them. The car has been sitting for 14 years and the braided hoses are a bit brittle. Does ATF evaporate/degrade or should I be prepared for it to be full?

Joel

Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:43 pm

DaMunk wrote: is that an AC unit?
If you're talking about the big box in the center of the pic, no, that's the fresh air box with fan. If you're lucky the fan might even work. If not there's an excellent couple of videos that show how to refurb it.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=298608

Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:08 pm

mnussbau, excellent video. Def will refer to it when I'm ready to rebuild.

Nearly two liters of ATF later...what does one do with old tranny/brake fluid?

The OG yellow is growing on me.

Too far rusted? I've seen new rims primed for paint for as low as $50@ and chromed for $80@...trying to find a balance between time and $$. Opinions?

Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:47 pm

clean those bad boys and paint em with spray paint. Those don't look to far rusted. Stock wheels imo always look nice. Also, keep the black :twisted: Maybe for that engine rebuild you should build a big motor for it.

Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:56 am

LeviMan2001 wrote: clean those bad boys and paint em with spray paint. Those don't look to far rusted. Stock wheels imo always look nice. Also, keep the black :twisted: Maybe for that engine rebuild you should build a big motor for it.

engine rebuild and paint are a ways away. just trying to get everything off and see what needs to be done. wheels w/tires that hold air are fairly high on the priority list for maneuverability's sake, but with wickedly rusted drums and backing plates there's a lot to attend to...and I haven't even started addressing body issues.

Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:02 pm

I grew up in Vermont so I'm digging the inspection sticker.

Nice find.

Max

Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:56 pm

A couple of bad rust spots, but not bad considering where the car lived and how long it was sitting.

Replacing this section lets me correct the lazy work done when the replacement fender was bolted on. I'm surprised the bolts didn't slip through those holes on their own. :roll:

There was at least 1/2 inch of dirt caked on...now just a little dirt and the "winter coating" of sprayed used motor oil from it's time in Vermont.

I've decided to go w/front discs and it looks like I'll be replacing everything in the rear too. :shock:

Sat Sep 26, 2009 4:36 pm

Yep. That's the Vermont I remember. :wink:

Max

Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:53 pm

The front right brakes were pressed to the drums and the adjusters would not budge. Had to bang away with a mallet and a piece of scrap wood to pry the drum off. The inner race & grease seal came out on their own from the vibration.

I guess it doesn't matter that it's warped since I'm converting to disc brakes.

I don't think there's much hope in salvaging the rear drums.

Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:29 pm

a mouse pissing on a cotton ball might be very quiet....

but it's terribly corrosive

one of the connectors for the fuel gauge was so rusty, it broke before I even tried to pull it off the terminal

For a fairly well preserved exterior, I'm finding a lot of rust holes as I strip things away...

...almost enough to justify buying a welder, but I'm sure there are still some things better left to a pro.

I wish I had the $$ while I have the time. Oh the joys of being a veedub owner. :D