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Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:30 am

i just recently purchased a 1970 baja bug and i needed some help, im new to aircooled engines. The previous owner made a mess in the back with the wires and every time it rains my systems start to act up, i was wondering if some one had any tips on how to maybe hide the wires or maybe if there is anything i can buy to do this, i also want my engine to look good, and i think that by hidding some wires it will look better, any idead appreciated.

Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:56 am

Several rules to good wiring...... Avoid "splices" (butt connector) as much as possible.... When putting on connectors use non-oxidation (silicone dialectic grease) grease on connectors..... Use proper crimp tool.... Get best quality too you can afford, typically a "indenter" type... Throw away that $2.99 special for local FLAPS... Good tool runs $20 to $60 ... There are may sources for loom fabrication materials..... Easiest and best looking is corrugated split tubing..... Heat shrink tubing can be you best friend when doing connections, using it after crimp process (remove little plastic insulator on terminal) will weather protect connection better, reinforce connection, and look really cool....

Its all about quality terminal, good tools to work with and good work procedures....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=344781

Dale

Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:43 am

Hey Luisbaja -

I'm about 90% done wiring my baja from scratch, and I purchased a Painless Wiring 8-circuit universal harness. Although a bit spendy (about $250 maybe) it was incredibly easy to install myself and looks very clean. When I bought mine they were running a special (and still are), so I got their Powerbraid kit for free which hides, protects, and organizes the wiring.

So far it looks great and everything works the first time. You can purchase and/or put together similar kits for less I know, but I wanted one ready to go out of the box and this one worked for my needs.

: Greg

Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:50 am

this crimping tool; the Klein 1005:

the seam in the top of the crimp goes towards the indentation, the post crushes the smooth side.

these terminal boards; euro style:

these shrouded quick disconnects

ring terminal preffered:

not on my ride, thank you:

it's a vibration thing

heat shrink and tie wraps, yes. Vinyl tape, no.

grommets are your friend.

Adel clamps, or the less expensive padded clamps from Ace or NAPA:

Mon Sep 07, 2009 12:58 pm

Mal evolent wrote: this crimping tool; the Klein 1005:

the seam in the top of the crimp goes towards the indentation, the post crushes the smooth side.

these terminal boards; euro style:

these shrouded quick disconnects

ring terminal preffered:

not on my ride, thank you:

it's a vibration thing

heat shrink and tie wraps, yes. Vinyl tape, no.

grommets are your friend.

Adel clamps, or the less expensive padded clamps from Ace or NAPA:

YES!!!!!!!!!!!

Dale

Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:48 pm

thank you all, this was verry helpfull, i will start on my wirring this weekend and ill keep you guys posted, thank you.

Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:45 pm

When in doubt, I like to solder and shrink wrap instead of crimp...things like:

High Amp connections
* Lead from Alternator
* Lead from battery terminal
* Starter circuit
* Headlight circuit
Ground connections
Splices (in case you cut something too short)

Also, soldering terminals will keep the wire from pulling out on things you might disconnect often.

Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:53 pm

If you want a connection that will not corrode or get dirty and fail, crimp and solder all the connectors, and solder everything else. I tend to solder every electrical connection, because later on, I do not have to worry about it.

Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:25 pm

Solder will not protect "mechanical" portion of connect from corrosion.... Only a seal that prevents oxygen from penetrating connection can do that....

Yes using solder and heat shrink will make a great wire to terminal connecting, but does not protect terminal to terminal (push on or under screw head or under nut) connection. Only a dialectic grease can do that.... You can have the best wire to terminal connection (crimp or solder + heat shrink) and if the mechanical portion is not protected from corrosion you have accomplished nothing... I personally think a solid mechanical connection (crimp) is as effective as solder (38 years in telecommunications and 5 total custom car rewires) to back up my statement....

Yes you can skip over the little plastic sleeve on wire terminal (probably best thing you can do) and use heat shrink in its place, it does two things, (1) protects connection, (2) added strain relief to prevent connection from breaking..... The little plastic sleeve on terminal is probability why most connection at terminal fail, it gets in the way of proper crimp...

Actually if you use non insulated connector you can inspect for proper crimp of connector.... BUT you have to get in habit of applying heat shrink for the professional look......

Dale

Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:26 pm

Dielectric grease for sure on those connections which will be "exposed" in the engine bay or elsewhere (spark plug wires, coil connections, taillights, etc.)

Kyle

Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:08 am

Hey Guys,

I too made my own wire harness....Boy it sure was alot of work but worth it in the long run.Heres the story. I wnt down to the local electronics shop(Willys Electrical in national city ca) And bought all I needed I 15 fuse block blade type. 25ft of 13 diffenant color/gauge wire.A high end crimper tool and several feet or heat shrink. ALL connectors wre soldered/crimped...boy this sure was time consumming. Any wire that passed thru a bulkhead was rubber grommeted..All the wires that ran from the front fuse block to the motor I ran the wire thru a soft thick sleeve. It took me the better part of 2 weekends to do this. I could not see shelling out BIG $$$ for a shop to do this....I enjoy doin this kind of work. It sure was alot of work though.
Bob.....Glad its done!!!

Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:32 am

Yea wiring can be a chore. But its worth it to do it right. It took me about a week or so to do mine. I redid the whole thing with a kit.

Completely documented here:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=107846
I know i know...its on TOS...but in my opinion its a good write up....because i did it.

There were some things that i learned and some things that i would do diffrent. But like its been said here....soldering is a ver good idea, especially on the important connections. What is cool about air cooled motors is that there is only about 5 wires that goto the motor.

Fri Sep 11, 2009 11:59 am

I have wired a few vehicles myself and here is my 2 cents worth. i love doing wiring its alot of fun and easy to do. Yes get a good crimper. as far as wiring and fuse blocks, For buggies that are exposed to the weather i get my fuse blocks at a marine store there all stainless and work very well. As far as the wire i by it from painless or get it from a marine store it is a bit more pricey but worth it in the end. DON'T BY CHEAP WIRE ITS JUNK !!!! and you will be doing it again. The terminals i us are heat shrink terminals with sealant in them so after you make your crimp, you heat shrink the plastic end around the wire and it seals it and if its the right terminals you will see sealant bubling from it. Here is Ca when the buggies go to Pismo or the desert i have no corrosion problems and i have never had any come back with electrical issues. OH one more thing i like the painless power braid wire loom kits they work very well and buy the tools for them it will make life alot easier. any questions feel free to e-mail me i have wired several buggies and vehicles over the years.