TheSamba.com :: View topic

Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:12 am

"The Neighbors" Wasn`t that a B-Horror Movie from the 80`s?

Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:22 pm

Well, after three Saturdays I finally got the bus cleaned up enough to start doing some actual work on it. I started grinding down the rust on the floor, beginning with the driver’s side.

Discovered a couple of holes.

Two questions. First, is this enough rust removal for POR15? I realize that I still need to get some more paint out of the creases but overall is this what I need to do? Second, would it be acceptable to cover those small holes with a patch help in place with JB Weld. There is not much rust on the underside as it has undercoating on it. I can get it welded up, but I hate to bother my neighbor if it is not necessary. What do you all think?

Sun Nov 01, 2009 11:03 am

As far as the POR15 application, you should be good as long as the loose rust is gone. It will actually bond better to solid rust than smooth metal.

I don't have any experience with JB weld in this type of situation, so I'll have others chime in. Welding would be best, but this would be a simple area to monitor and re-do later if needed. It's not like the repair is going to be visible, ie: exterior body panel.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 1:07 pm

For that small of a hole you can get away with some fiberglass mesh mat and some por 15. Saturate the mesh with the por 15 and lay it against the metal floor to cover up the hole. This will dry hard as a rock and is probably the best repair for this job besides welding it up. Good Luck..

Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:31 pm

I have used the thin fiberglss mat from POR15 with excellent results. For best results with POR15, it is recommended that you do both sides of the rusty areas. POR15 is a rust encapsulator and seals the affected areas from moisture. I have been using this product for several years with great results. Just follow their directions and you will be fine. Good luck on your project!

Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:32 pm

Thanks, guys. The fiberglass mesh is a great idea. If I don't find anymore holes I will use that idea. If I find that I have some other holes, I will bug my neighbor to come and weld them when he welds up the two big holes from the back of the luggage rack. :shock: oh yeah and the whole bottom is going to be done in POR 15.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:34 pm

Almost forgot to mention that undercoating the bottom after the POR15 treatment, with sprayon truck bed liner will give you an almost bullet proof job.

Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:38 pm

nodrenim wrote: Almost forgot to mention that undercoating the bottom after the POR15 treatment, with sprayon truck bed liner will give you an almost bullet proof job.

I have considered this but I am not sure I want to spray while laying on my back. I figure even with just the por15 it should outlast this 54year old.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:16 am

I had the whole day today to work on the bus, so I decided to drop the beam so I can determine what parts I need to rebuild it. When I pulled the hubs I was pleased to see that the brake shoes were in pretty good condition and the drums looked very good. :D

I will be replacing the entire brake system from end to end except for the drums (if they are still serviceable) but it showed me that the PO was taking care of it.

This upper ball joint is toast but the rest seem pretty tight. However, all the boots are toast. I called the local shop and the labor to replace all four will be $80 (though I am not sure how much the ball joints will be), so I think I will replace them all. Good idea?

I got a bit stuck when trying to pull off the upper torsion arm but a search here let me know that I just needed to get a bigger hammer. THIS SITE IS AWSOME!!! From there it was a simple matter of pulling off the rest of the tie rods to get down to the beam. I was not able to get the clutch cable loose so I ended up cutting it. :evil: I dropped the parking brake cables and the shift rod, then used two jacks to slowly lower the beam. Regardless of the hassles that many talked about, I got it out by myself without any problems. There is a lot more room now to deal with the rust and por 15 the whole thing.

The good news is that the torsion arm bearings appear to in good shape as are all of the tie rod ends. However, I think that it would be good idea to go ahead and replace the ends. What do you all think?

Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:29 pm

Mountain Minstrel wrote:
This upper ball joint is toast but the rest seem pretty tight. However, all the boots are toast. I called the local shop and the labor to replace all eight will be $80 (though I am not sure how much the ball joints will be), so I think I will replace them all. Good idea?

I'd would(and did myself) just opt for purchasing a pair of refurb arms online.

Such as http://www.bus-boys.com/bbbjarms2.htm

Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:04 pm

It has been while since I posted an update so here goes. I have been getting the Beam and front undercarriage ready to POR15. The Beam turned out to be a bear to clean up but finally got the grease and that nasty undercoating, that is everywhere under the bus, off. After several days of sandblasting, the new ball joints went in and she is all ready for three coats of POR15.

The rest of the frontend parts cleaned up pretty good.

They look absolutely beautiful all covered in POR15.

I have the entire driver’s side wheel well area and about ¼ of the center section ready to paint. I hope to get the rest done tomorrow. I will post pics when it is done. Then I will be covering it with grey POR15. It feels great to finally be getting something done on this bus, but there is still a ton to do if I am going to be camping in her this summer.

Sun Jan 03, 2010 2:39 am

Nice work. Keep up with pics when you do more progress.

Sat Jan 16, 2010 4:10 pm

After several weeks of grinding and sandblasting (not fun to do under the bus) I am finally getting the front undercarriage ready to reassemble. I have to have it rolling by the 20th or I will get a ticket for an inoperable vehicle in my driveway.

Everything ready for the POR 15

And after three coats of grey POR 15

I only got one coat on the wheel wells because I did not have enough paint but that can wait until I get the frontend back together. As you can see, I left the hose that goes to the rear vent alone as I understand that it is fragile and NLA. What do you think I should do with it (it is way ugly now)?

Monday I am having a couple of friends come over to put the beam back in. After that the front should go back together pretty fast (the famous last words). Will post more pics then.

Sat Jan 16, 2010 4:44 pm

Lookin good. Keep up the good work. 8)

Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:40 pm

Got the beam reinstalled today. The only problem I had was with the ball joints spinning making it hard to get them tight. A quick search here gave me the answer I needed to get it done (thanks again Samba).

I used reflectix to insulate the heater tube and then wrapped that with aluminum tape. I put all new tie rods and drag link from OCAP in. At the suggestion of the local shop owner, I used adjustable tie rods for both sides (he has had some problems with fixed arms not being correct length and causing the steering wheel to be off center). That may be a bunch of huey, but it did not cost anymore.

It feels so good to finally be putting something back together. It is still not complete (needs the sway bar, shocks, and steering damper put on). It is complete enough though to put the hubs and wheels on so that I can move it into the garage. That way I avoid the fines for having it in the driveway, and I get to work out of the rain. :D

Tue Jan 19, 2010 5:08 am

Looking good! 8)

Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:47 am

I just bought a 69 Westy, running well. My sheet metal (floor pans etc) wasn't as bad, but the undercarriage floor beams (if that makes sense), has a few blow-outs, but can be reinforced welded (I think). Also have some rocker issues.

I'm just curious, if I POR-15 the bad metal, can I weld over it, or should I get all welding done first, then POR-15 (which makes more sense, but not with my time schedule, right now).

I'd like to POR-15 now and wait to do weld-jobs

Any advice??

Tue Jan 19, 2010 4:01 pm

VAVWFAN wrote:
I'm just curious, if I POR-15 the bad metal, can I weld over it, or should I get all welding done first, then POR-15 (which makes more sense, but not with my time schedule, right now).

I'd like to POR-15 now and wait to do weld-jobs

Any advice??

I am not a welder, but a neighbor who works on old jeeps is. He told me that he had a hard time striking an ark through POR 15. Also, with as much welding as you seem to have to do, it might be better (not to mention cheaper) for you to learn to weld. Paying to have restoration work done is not cost effective. :shock:

Tue Jan 19, 2010 4:10 pm

Ken,
The bus is looking great! I will soon be doing the same to my undercarriage, though I am using Rust Bullet and then overcoating with a sound proof material from Second Skin.
On another note, I will be traveling out your way late summer if the Westy is done by then. My cuz's live up the road at Bass Lake.....love to hook up and bus trip to Bass Lake and possibly into Yosemite (wife has never been). Whaddya think?
Oh, meant to ask, did you spray the POR-15 on or brush?

Tue Jan 19, 2010 6:32 pm

peaceful warrior wrote: Ken,
The bus is looking great! I will soon be doing the same to my undercarriage, though I am using Rust Bullet and then overcoating with a sound proof material from Second Skin.
On another note, I will be traveling out your way late summer if the Westy is done by then. My cuz's live up the road at Bass Lake.....love to hook up and bus trip to Bass Lake and possibly into Yosemite (wife has never been). Whaddya think?
Oh, meant to ask, did you spray the POR-15 on or brush?

The POR 15 was brushed on. It looks better in the pictures than it does up close, but it is rustpoofed. :? I will have one of the best lookin undercarriages with one of the ugliest buses sitting on top of it.

I'm in for Yosemite anytime. I prefer the backcontry to the valley floor but it is a place that everyone should see. Hopefully I will have the bus running then. It would help if my S-10 would stop getting jealous and breaking. The $700.00 it took to get it back on the road would have gone a long ways toward the engine rebuild. :evil: