TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:34 pm

Quote: And alas, my Squareback only has one or two working lines

at a flaps near you

Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:28 am

All of my OG silver traces were damaged but the end sections are in good shape with power from the dash switch. After scraping off the original traces with a razor blade - I installed new traces from Frost Fighter directly over what was left. I did not like Frost Fighter's trace end attachment method so I used their conductive epoxy to attach the trace ends to the OG VW silver end sections. See my pics in the Gallery. Gets nice and warm. The kit did come with a nice switch and a timed relay for auto turn off. Have not made my mind up yet on whether or not to use them or keep the OEM "turn on and stays on" switch.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:48 am

cr@M wrote: I've never heard of someone on here with a working OG defroster. Someone asks every year, haha.

My defroster works on my 1974 Station Wagon Transporter. Every line still works just like new. Do I win a cookie or something? :D

I've never thought to take a picture of the defroster, but I will next time I need it.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:21 pm

When I got my bus there was this nasty, purple tint on all the windows and I had to painstakingly scrape it all off with a razor blade. I remember scrapping the rear window and getting black lines where the defroster lines were. Did I scrape off/destroy the defroster unit? The switch up front works fine. I always joke to my passengers its the "Passenger ejector switch" and no one ever touches it :lol:

Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:45 pm

dwill49965 wrote: RIOMX - if you do get your rear defroster grid working, do your battery and charging system a huge favour - use the original defroster switch to turn on a relay (30 amp- use a good Bosch one) in the engine bay, and run the power for the defrost grid directly from the battery straight up to the rear window (through the relay).

That way, you avoid sending the 12 volts 18 feet forward to the fuse box, through the switch, and then 18 feet back to the rear window, which by then is much less than 12 volts. Instead, you end up with about a 3-4 foot run which delivers much more voltage directly to where you need it.

And also put a fusible link on the heavy duty power feed line as close as you can to the battery. Yes, its a bit of extra wiring, but well worth it.

You're a brave man. Advocating that someone ad a relay brings out the torch and pitchfork crowd around here. :lol:

Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:13 pm

Just an added point to check is the supply wire that travels through the roof channel on the passenger side to the back. The wire rubs on the steel support brackets and wears through and grounds it's self. Mine was in bad shape right at the door pillar that meets the roof. The wire travels through a hole there and tends to wear.

Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:44 pm

thewalrus wrote: When I got my bus there was this nasty, purple tint on all the windows and I had to painstakingly scrape it all off with a razor blade. I remember scrapping the rear window and getting black lines where the defroster lines were. Did I scrape off/destroy the defroster unit? The switch up front works fine. I always joke to my passengers its the "Passenger ejector switch" and no one ever touches it :lol:

it must be a new england thing! I have the same explination for my switch, and someone tinted half the windows (scraping jalousies SUCKS) with stupid purple half arsed tint. gonna try and get mine working some time next week, after testing the grid, I already know the hot wire doesnt go anywhere. Maybe I canfish a new one thru.