TheSamba.com :: View topic - Anyone used Peel & Seal for interior insulation

Sat Oct 10, 2009 11:10 am

I used Quick Roof. I don't know if it worked because the car hasn't been driven yet, or even had the engine reinstalled.

Sat Oct 10, 2009 11:17 pm

TopBud

The gist of the thread is that there are cheap alternatives to the more expensive sound deadeners - with some folks using roofing supplies - but these and most other cheaper materials are asphalt based. There is a health risk in the gases that asphalt releases. The safest deadening products are made with an all butyl material. RAAMAudio has been used by BUSBOSS & it sounds like he's very happy. I recently found an all-butyl product on Ebay called eDead that was a very good price ($1/sq ft). I spent a good part of today installing it and will post some pics tomorrow. Very happy so far.

Sun Oct 11, 2009 5:15 am

How many feet did you use of the eDead? Did you just do the floor or did you do the whole inside?[/list]

Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:10 am

So in summary anything your purchase from Lowes or Home Depot is going to be asphalt based? :o

Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:01 am

The Lowes/HD stuff is specifically for roofing and is asphalt based.

I ordered 100 sq ft. My current project involves laying the deadener down on the floor, walls and sliding door of the cargo area. I've just about got it all down and have used a little over 2/3 of the original order. That is one single layer on the floor, walls and slider & two layers on the interior wall in front of the engine. I'm not putting any down on top of the engine just yet (I like to keep it looking stock & I've read in another thread from Amskeptic/Colin that he wished he hadn't put it up there). Plan to also do the interior of the nose and front doors as well... pretty sure I'll have enough left to do that.

Off to the garage now to finish up. Will post some pics in my thread about spilt milk later...

Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:55 pm

patayres wrote: Plan to also do the interior of the nose and front doors as well... pretty sure I'll have enough left to do that.

One item you may want to give some thought to is the added weight to the hinges if added to the doors. I'm not sure what the weight difference is between the eDead and the peel and seal, but after adding the peel and seal to the doors, it definitely took a toll on the hinges. Ended up having to replace them due to the added weight. There may be a huge weight difference and it may not even mater, but just something to give some though to.

Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:04 pm

I appreciate the heads up on the door hinges... the eDead I'm using is just 45 mil. The weight of 100 sq ft was around 30 lbs. I figure the door will use between 10-15 sq ft, which means around 3 lbs.

Any idea how much you used &/or the weight?

Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:55 pm

No, but it was more than 3 lbs. Plus I covered the entire inside of the door. Which I have found out now that it is mostly recommended that that is not necessary and strips are the way to go. Guess it would depend on the manufacturer's instructions also.

Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:08 am

Butyl is not Neoprene. Neoprene is a trade name for the polymer Polychloroprene.

A constrained layer damper uses a stiff layer (Foil) and polymers to dissipate energy as heat. (Butyl)

A mass damper (asphalt) relies on weight to deaden a panel. And your hinges.

More than likely any butyl based damper you buy is not hazardous. The product is not cured, so there is an absence of secondary amines to generate harmful nitrosamines. (aka "the new car smell")

100% coverage is not necessary.

Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:29 pm

Used a combination of peel and stick, from Home Depot, the kind builders put around windows and the reflectix insulation. The peel and stick is for sound deadening, cuts back on the hollow tin sound. I coated the whole inside with reflectix with metal tape.. Bus is nice and quiet inside and there was no smell. even when I first did it....

I also put all new interior panels and a headliner in. Oh and carpet throughout. No hardwood floor.

No complaints from me.

Kinsey

Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:53 pm

I am wanting to do the same thing. Question was it really worth it? Meaning did it reallly deaden the road noise?

Also what should I do first. Roof or Back compartment (behind seat)?

Tue Oct 13, 2009 1:17 pm

Quote: Question was it really worth it? Meaning did it reallly deaden the road noise?
Nope. Doesn't work at all. We just like wasting our time and money... don't you? Seriously though, there are a lot of threads on here about people using sound deadener... do a search and decide for yourself. There is one out there with a report of decibel levels before and after the install.

Quote: Also what should I do first. Roof or Back compartment (behind seat)?
You think putting deadener on the roof is going to make a big difference in road noise?

Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:37 pm

smart azz

Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:23 pm

twistedvintage wrote: I am wanting to do the same thing. Question was it really worth it? Meaning did it reallly deaden the road noise?

Also what should I do first. Roof or Back compartment (behind seat)?

Yes. It's worth it.

Cargo area is more important than roof. Even sounddeadening on the roof will help with the overall tin coke can effect of our buses.

Reflectix insulation everywhere, especially the roof will help with temps.

Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:53 pm

I have no coke can effect in my bus and no insulation at all. What no one likes the sound of their bus? I love my A-1. Thats part of the reason I did a 9000 mile trip alone, But... I am my own best friend.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 2:06 am

This is a portion of what I have been using over the years. Mainly on all vertical panels. It dries semi rock hard/flexible. Sure get's rid of tin cans and makes the panels solid. Main thing is no concern with moisture problems. Have no idea about the formulation and so far havn't found a current source for it. It was an undercoating product Pep Boys sold. Sad day when I hit the bottom of the can. It isn't like an asphalt roofing product. On the bug I also saturated real thick felt like pieces with an other under coating product and stuck them to the verticals on top of this first product. That thing is really solid and quiet. I'd do it all again in the same manner. California health warnings aside.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:51 am

Let me rephrase for patayres.

Would you do it again?

I realize you guys have spent a lot of Time, Money, sweat, tears and blood to put it in the sound deadening material.

You all have done an excellent job. Even Patayres. I am very appreciative of the insight and pics that you all have shown. Especially the video from Chris at classicvwbugs.com (thanks maximan1 for posting).

I was simply stating after all the hardwork and money was it worth it. I wasn't trying to be sarcastic or rude. Sorry if I offended anyone.

And yes my thought of the roof was justified as stated by others. Plus it would insulate heat.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:39 am

I was trying to be sarcastic but meant no offense. And I'm so happy to hear that you approve of my work (more sarcasm intended) :lol:

Just ribbing you a little bit, twisted... my wife doesn't enjoy my sarcastic sense of humor either.

Anyway, the benefits of sound deadening are well documented. Check out this thread for the decibel level tests I mentioned above... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=309327&highlight=sound+decibel

I'm still working on my project so can't tell you first hand how much quieter things are or whether I'd go through all the work and $ again, but I haven't read any posts here of anyone saying it didn't work or was a waste of time.

And I'm sure applying sound deadener to the roof cuts down on some of the tin can effect, but not nearly as much as putting it on the floor and walls (closer to the road and engine noises).

Thu Oct 15, 2009 8:07 pm

Harbor freight has the 3"x25ft roll for sale for $9.99 in their catalog right now.
ITEM 65611-1VGA

Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:09 pm

Will this roof stuff stay applied in the AZ heat?? And could it be doubled up? Looking to quit down oval engine noise...