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Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:09 am

A fellow VW from here in aus knew I was looking for a late type three shell I could chuck a motor in and drive so he put me on to an add in the local parts trader. It was for a 63 Squareback, with a loose head, no charging and brake problems..at least there were photos so I knew it was actually a late square. I went and took a look and its a 73, same orange as mine and with a black interior. It actually has less rust than mine so I could not resist and paid a deposit. I will pick up in a week or so when I get time to organise a car trailer. Needs a good clean and I will have to get rid of the house carpet inside but I am now very happy. I purchased an engine a few months ago and have the generator from my old car so that's all ok.
I am wondering why the head came loose though. Apparently they took it to a VW mechanic who said it would be ok and just needed tightening. I did see that the carbs have been changed. It now has an alloy hex bar linkage, alloy type air cleaners and the carbs appeared to be a bit smaller than stock. I didn't pay much attention to that as I was always going to use the stock setup. It will be interesting to find out just what they are. Anyway I am stoked that I will be driving a VW again soon

Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:09 am

Well, good find! 2 squares the same color should get you "back on the road again". The head studs have a nasty habit of pulling out of the block. They'll need to be drilled/tapped out to 10mm with stepped 10mm by 8mm "case savers" installed. You might have Weber ICT carbs on the one engine? Sometimes it takes 2 VW's to make 1 good one!

Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:10 am

post up a pic of said engine with the mystery carbs; or take a look at my gallery for pics of my ICT's for comparison purposes...

Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:13 am

Should pick it up Wednesday. Have to take nearly $100 of coins to the bank LOL Just didn't have the amount I needed in the bank. Big bill months suck. Still a bargain at $500. It was an opportunity I was not going to let pass by.
I rang the owner a few hours ago to see if it could be driven, I didn't even ask when I took a look at it. Just assumed it wasn't running because of the head. Apparently it is as long as I get a jump start. Or in this case the good battery out of my car. It's only 20km's from my place and should be able to do it before it gets dark.
I will have to take a good look at the head studs when I get it back, and the carbs. Can you tell I am excited? The only thing I really am not sure about is that it has mag wheels. They are 14" rims not 15" so may look at putting a set of stock wheels on

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Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:36 am

Did the police come to assist you in getting it home??

Good find.
You could sell those wheels to an unsuspecting buyer and recoup part of the costs.
That is what I did on my 73 fastback. It came with 14" alloy wheels that rubbed on a Type 3.

Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:41 pm

LOL no it's not the police. It's Parks and Wildlife. I have no idea what he was doing he just pulled up, sat there for a while and then drove off. I was in uniform at the time so perhaps he mistook me for someone else OR he wanted my car. In all honesty I couldn't sell them without explanation. I guess they should fit a Bug ok. As a fan of the BBC's Goon Show I love the sticker on the back window. I know it needs a bit of work but for now it's a lot less than the one I had earmarked for the rebuild

Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:13 pm

Ok so plan is to pick her up in the next five or six hours. I have taken the generator, regulator and dizzy/coil out from my old car (Had to lift the recon motor out as it was on top. Man was it a pita to lift back in).
So I should be ok with charge barring some sort of wire shortage.
I was going to adjust the valves and carbs before heading home with it as well but realised I wont be able to do the valves if the head is loose. As I would like to get up and running ASAP is there a way to tighten the head bolts down with the engine in. I have not looked for a while but do not mind stripping off the carbs and tin to get to the top. Or am I thinking the wrong place for those hard to get to bolts? From what the PO was saying the VW mechanic they took it to said it just needed the bolts tightened. As Mike pointed out I would have thought more likely the head studs have begun to pull out. And then what about gaskets? Would they not be stuffed by now?
Wish me luck fellas, it's a big hill I have to go up to get home lol.

Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:30 pm

There are no head gaskets in a VW. Cast iron cylinder against the aluminum head.
You might be able to tighten the head studs, but you will have to pull the rocker shaft off. It is usually one of the lower ones that gets loose. The upper ones, the nuts get kinda rusted into place.

Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:53 pm

Thanks for that. I have never seen one in pieces and assumed there were copper ring gaskets. I can dream that it will be simple but I read what you said in another post saying that they should never come loose.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:22 am

Now that was an experience that will haunt me at night RPM's way to high, could not adjust, carbs not in synq, 009 dizzy giving me grief. Brakes a bit low and front left wobbled when braking. No power bogging down and 40 max in a 80 zone. Air leaks all over. In the end got her home though. Removed 009 and carbs in the dark. I was that annoyed with the whole set up.
The carbs are Dellorto FRD 34 B's. Who in there right mind would use carbs where one is in backwards and no room for adjustment. Bloody madness I tell you.
With all that so far out and the plugs are probably fouled from running way too rich, how do I tell if the head is indeed loose?

Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:33 am

Does it sound like it has a real bad exhaust leak under acceleration? Kind of a popping like exhaust leak. That is a loose head.
Pull the rocker arms and see if there are any head nuts laying in the valve cover.
Try torquing the lower row of head nuts and see if they will tighten.

Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:04 pm

Hey Russ, I thought you said yoiu couldn't use bug heater boxes? This one has one on there. There is an exhaust leak from it too. Haven't pulled the rocker covers yet as its raining and the ground is muddy.
Pulled the dell inlet manifolds off and guess what? No freaking gaskets. Three spark plugs were loose. Tinware is botched up quite a bit in places. The rubber hose used for tha balance pipe was just sitting on there and at least one step oversize.
I have now come to the conclusion that people who fir these to a type three are masochists.
I was planning on having it running again today but will probably run out of time and won't be able to touch it for a week or so. At least I have the bits from the other car that I needed. I am getting sick of lifting the spare motor out of the car when I need to get the hatch off

Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:00 pm

Few more questions as after a much needed slepp I will be back into working on the old girl. I should have looked at the engine number properly but I do recall it starting with T0. It is a 1600 duel port and possibly the original engine. Has twin stock solex carbs and using the vacume line for advance. I have two distributors that I can put in one standard and one fuel injection.
Standard: JFURX4 , 0 231 163 008, 311 905 205 AB
FI: JFUR4, 0 231 167 014, 311 905 205 T
While I can find the part numbers on oldvolks home they do not include the letters (AB and T)
Which would be better to use as the nearest I can tell they suit 60's cars.
I also have a set of heater boxes that came with a heap of perts I bought. Under the grime they look to have been chromed (ugg) or polished. I am one of the few V8 guys who hates chrome especially in our summers. All the dampening/insulation material has been removed and they seem quite light (Do not look as though they have been opened). As our worst temperatures are quite mild here and we are comming up to summer would there be much of a problem running these heater boxes?
And lastly I am justified in getting rid of the baby dells arn't I? Even if they worked better than stock I don't see an easy way of hooking them up to the fresh air inlet.

Mon Oct 19, 2009 1:22 pm

311-905-205AB

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm#C1970FM

311-905-205T I do not find listed either. 113-905-205T is a 70 bug 1600 dist.

0231 137 036 113 905 205T 0231 137 039 111 905 205AA Beetle MT 1970 1600

Could also be a Euro spec dist. for dual carb Euro cars.

Mon Oct 19, 2009 11:00 pm

Ok the right hand head may have had one or two bolts not as tight as spec. That's all done now. Exhaust fixed on that side as well. Still have the left side to do but it can wait till tomorrow.
The engine number on top of the block is T0689025, however I saw another number about an inch up on the right hand side 40-VW-211 101 102D
The heads are also different numbers than those on my other car BR 040 101 375 with the big number 57. Does this sound right for a 73 Aussie 1600 DP motor?
Going for twenty nine hours straight now. Had to get a car trailer and go get the step sons car. He hit a gutter the other night and bent the wishbone on his car. Picked it up brought it home had a look at the damage. He complained about it being to much hard work....all he freaken did was take out one ramp and then put them both back. The wife and I did all the real work. And you know what, not one word of thanks. Just went to his room with music playing loud and got the shits when I wouldn't lend him my car to go to his mates. Dole bludging little turd he never helps around the house at all, takes twenty minute showers and eats everyone else's food AND doesn't pay rent (His mums decision NOT mine) Oh and we got a call from Kindy to pick up our four year old son immediately as his eye was swollen. They weren't wrong, he had a severe allergic reaction to some pollen. It almost looked like his eye ball was ready to pop.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:07 am

They are ALL Brats from 5-20+! Your 4 year old will be similar to your stepson! :shock: :evil: :roll: :lol:

Wed Oct 21, 2009 12:50 am

OK so engine is running again. Heads were not loose. Motor is a bit noisy. Valves are adjusted. The big downer is that I had to use the 009. Engine was TDC on #1 Compression stroke and the vacuum can fouled on the fuel pump (Tried two different pumps) Then tried changing so that #1 was the nest one over. When I did that the can fouled on the tin before it was in position. Any ideas?

Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:06 am

WOW! As you said, that is really a bargain, in any language. Keep us posted on the development of your Squareback, buddy!

Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:15 am

Thanks mate I have only just started going over the rest of car, installed my H4 headlights replaced one tail light and front indicator. Will remove the spotlights very soon and utilise the ones that are embedded in the headlights. Missing the linkages and spring from one of the seats that let it move back and forward. replaced the accelerator cable as the one used with the dells was too short. It was also missing the flexible guide tube so ripped the one out of the 72, it was too long so will have to find the correct part. Ripped out the ultra cool house carpet and Cookie monster pelt seat covers (One really needs re-padding). Actually did up the sway bar bolts and wheel bearings to spec. No movement now. Could this have caused the wobble when braking? or would it be the steering damper?
Tomorrow get to install the test alternator (Another thread here)
Does anyone have a picture of the correct fuel pump to use with twin carbs?
Oh and are chrome side mirrors standard or should it have the black ones?

Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:40 am

You could try new disc brake pads and/or a new damper/new wheel bearings for the wobble? Having the rotors turned/trued would be only as a LAST resort.

Your mirrors look like Type 1 chrome repro mirrors I'm running on mine now. They are a little bigger/better mirror than the original tiny teardrop mirrors. My 69 HAD the big black plastic repro mirrors that are shitty on the passenger side! I'll sell the black ones to you for $20! :twisted: