TheSamba.com :: View topic - 1970 Bug... turns over wont start--- help

Fri Oct 16, 2009 9:20 am

Stefan,

NO WAY on the local shop. We only have one here in Utah, South Towne VW and they are absurd!!! I've paid them $400 bucks to fix something and they never did the work but tried to give me the car back saying it was done. They also have recommended I replace parts for $200 bucks without checking them (they were already brand new). I know i'm a girl but really!!!! I get sick of them trying to charge me $66 bucks to change a brake light in my Jetta (not kidding)!!!!

I wish I was back in Portland Oregon... I love the shops there!

Fri Oct 16, 2009 9:35 am

You get the good ones and you get the bad...it is unfortunate. Try checking the gaps though...it really isn't that bad. It seems a little intimidating because of looking at all the diff parts in the dizzy, but it is super easy.

Fri Oct 16, 2009 10:28 am

There are a few decent shops in SLC. Ask another air cooled VW person out there.

Here is another site about gapping the points correctly....

http://www.type2.com/bartnik/points.htm

For the record you have a later model engine most likely. Dual port engines came around in 1971 and continued on from there.

Fri Oct 16, 2009 10:46 am

Randy Brown is the man here in SLC. his number is 801-261-1314. Give him a call. He's been in VW's for like 30 years. I've bought parts from him before, and he's always been a real good guy to deal with. He's not open on the weekends, though. Seriously, he should be able to get you running.

Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:12 pm

Thanks again for all the help guys.

I laughed at Randy (from Maine) cause I don't know any other "air-cooled people." Seriously I just bought this car casue my best friend in high school drove one (forever ago) and I thought it was so fun!

Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:18 pm

yauchzee wrote: Sounds like spark or fuel prob.

:lol:

Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:25 pm

c'mon! That was some of my best material! :lol:

Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:34 pm

heyyouej wrote:

I laughed at Randy (from Maine) cause I don't know any other "air-cooled people."

Been here?

http://www.scacvw.org/

I lived out in SLC for about 10 years (avenues guy though)

Fri Oct 16, 2009 4:26 pm

Ok first let me say that I’m a noob, so others correct me if I’m wrong,
but I think if you are putting in new points that you are supposed to put
in a new condenser at the same time. Here are a couple of videos that
will show you how to install the points, set the gap, and install a new
condenser:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQJl39RZZHo&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8kcDW3rA-I

Fri Oct 16, 2009 9:36 pm

ok, I've been thinking about this today, and you have the wrong coil in there. you have 1.3 ohms resistance across it, right? you should have about 3 ohms. I just went through the same thing with mine about 2 weeks ago. either you need to get a coil specifically for a vw, or you can do the same thing I ended up doing: install a ballast resistor between the coil and the condenser/points. not enough resistance in the coil means too much power is getting too the points and burning them up. you will have to replace the points ($3-5) and possibly the condenser ($8ish). believe me on this, I already had this experience recently. don't just clean up your burnt points, either. they will come apart on you sooner or later. mine did. on I-15 in the "spaghetti bowl" with my 5 year old in the car. Runs fine now that I learned this lesson. oh, and avoid autozone if you can... their parts are cheap crap.

Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:13 am

Can't beat a new good one right down the road from you at 3rd W and 6100 So...

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=IGC0001&cartid=

Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:26 am

So... I got NOTHING done this weekend on the bug... So sad! Had a natural gas leak to deal with instead. Still waiting for the Carb rebuild kit to come in the mail too.

BTW, I looked more carefully inside the distributor and the wire inside looks like it might be scorched (i've already replaced the condencer on the side of it).

Thanks for the tip about skipping Auto Zone how is Checker?

The top of the bug seems mostly clean of rust but if I dont watch out I will be Flintstoning it. When I went to put the new battery in it fell thru to the ground. I need to find someone (in the SLC valley) to weld on a new floor pan (all sections) any suggestions? Guest-a-mates on what this should cost? I want to have this done before I get her re-painted.

Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:37 pm

haven't had any real problems with cecker, but the Pep Boys on 21st and 7th east helped me out. there's also a guy that works there that drives a 58 ragtop bug.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 2:30 pm

Any progress? Is it running?

Thu Oct 22, 2009 4:16 pm

Just got all the kits to rebuild the distributor and the carb... We will see what happens next.

Still need to get the right coil.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:57 pm

you can use the coil you have if you also run a ballast resistor. I think the one I am using is for a 75 or so Ford, maybe an LTD or a pickup. put the resistor in-line between the coil and the condenser wire. hang on, I'll find a pic of mine.

Thu Oct 22, 2009 8:12 pm

the pink wire goes to the condenser. it has since been replaced with a significantly shorter green wire. oh, and I had to get a longer bolt to mount it there, but it was actually really easy.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:05 am

So I got the right Bosch Coil, rebuilt the distributor and the carb. It still turns over and over and will not start.

Could it have anything to do with the rusted box under the driverside rear seat (about the size of a fist)? I'm at a total loss now.

BTW... I went to ACE (Air Cooled Engineering) on 6100S her in Salt Lake... thanks for directing me there! It was so nice to have someone who know the part I needed and not sell me a random part that would not work or fit.

Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:26 am

after doing all that were you able to verify spark to the distibutor. If you could then could you verify spark to the plugs?

Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:53 am

did you put new spark plugs on?