TheSamba.com :: View topic - installing my fresh rebuilt 1600 sp tonight..

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:10 am

im going to get that engine in tonight and was seeing if you guys had any tips for me before i try to start her up?

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:12 am

beer and a fire extinguisher. that's all that comes to mind.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:14 am

Make sure you put oil in it.
Seriously.
I have heard of people forgetting.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:18 am

Do you have a good engine compartment seal?

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:20 am

whats an engine compartment seal?

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:20 am

I like running it on the starter with the coil disconnected until the oil light goes out.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:21 am

codykjwalton wrote: whats an engine compartment seal?

I think he means the tin seal, or the seal that goes around the outside edge of the engine tin.
It makes the engine draw in cool air from the top vents instead of the hot exhaust air.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:22 am

got it

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:22 am

codykjwalton wrote: whats an engine compartment seal?

Codykjwalton: I think we'd really get along. Good luck with that engine.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:25 am

ahah
ill let ya guys know how it goes..

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:31 am

Always exciting putting in a new engine...
Is the bus ready to drive otherwise?
I feel a midnight cruise coming on.
:P
Good luck!

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:46 am

yea its ready to go! im just finishing up some other stuff like cv boots and acc. cable, fuel line...then engine goes in and im going for a drive!

Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:59 am

A for you start it check all the connection fuel, water, wires, clamps, battery wires, make sure you have the official start key. It is the one that has STARTER KEY stamped on it. Did you know that each bus has one :lol:

Be sure the gas tank full and the oil is on the top line of the dip stick.

Also be sure to check underneath before you start for any drips and have someone back there is something happens that you can shut it off and have the back hatch door open.

Good luck

Tue Oct 20, 2009 10:02 am

Yes, I'm talking about the engine tin/cooling seal - goes around the engine tin. I think on a 72 it's easier to install while the engine is out... correct? Unlike the foam seal on T4 engines. Just one thing to check on... would suck to think of it afterward.

Can't remember exactly what year the foam ones started... maybe it was 72. So maybe nevermind. Have fun!

Tue Oct 20, 2009 10:15 am

All new engines should be wet motored before you attempt to start them. By that I mean leave the spark plugs out to reduce the load on the starter and crank the engine a few times to get the oil circulated very well before you actually run the engine. This is called pre-oiling the engine. When you do this be sure to not exceed the starter limits on duty cycles. This means don't burn up the starter by getting it too hot. Crank it and then wait 5 minutes and then do it again. You should also try to have a battery charger putting juice back in to the battery to keep the charge level up.

The next thing is that when you actually do start the engine take it up to about 2000 rpm immediately and keep it there for about 10 minutes. You do this to insure that you are getting good oil pressure that allows proper lubrication of the cam shaft lobes. If you only let the engine idle you can damage the cam shaft.

Lastly, you should consider an engine oil additive called ZDDP. This is available under several different brand names. ZDDP helps a lot during engine break in by replacing the missing zink that modern engine oils lack because of catalytic converters.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 10:23 am

You might want to also put in a half quart of Lucas.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 10:30 am

Good call. Brad Penn oil has ZDDP. I get that at Action Auto parts in my neck of the woods. Only place that carries it around here. The Z in ZDDP stands for Zinc... so if you are asking around, you can ask for "that zinc stuff" and they might help you find it.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 1:35 pm

Like Aeromech say's you need to do a good start up and break in. Did the engine builder run it in already? And for the sake of whatever warantee you might have with it what instructions were you given? Every builder should give you that.
-It's good to get another person to help you on the start-up. If you have Tom Wilson's book he has good start-up and break-in info. The initial running is most important.
-Oil or additive as suggested. I use GM's E.O.S.
-Have circulation and pressure before you give it ignition.
-It's real good to have a fan, you will get hot. And a clock or watch. Otherwise you will think it is enough after a couple minutes. The first time is somewhat traumatic.
-Wilson say's 20 minutes at 2,000 RPM. Immediatly go to speed. No idle. Don't idle to play with timing. You can properly time it after the run in. The first run is to break in the cam and lifters and get a proper wear pattern established.
-Drain oil while still hot. The oil will have glistening particles if you look at it in the light. Thats the break-in particles.
-Let cool overnight and adjust the valves.
-Wilson gives the proceedure for seating the rings. Run it up to 50 MPH then let it coast back down. (I have used 3rd gear at 3/4 throttle). Repeat 5 or 6 times. This puts pressure on both sides of the rings.
-New oil and valve check again in a hundred miles or so.

I don't know how magic this method is but it gives real nice worthwhile results.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 2:07 pm

I agree w/desertbusman and aeromech. I used more or less the same procedure on a couple of motors 20 years ago. I'm rebuilding a 1600 now and will be using Brad Penn Break in oil for the 1st 20 min. Then Brad Penn 20/50 for the rest. Check out the "which oil should I use" link in the Engine and performance forum. It seems people in different climates prefer different oil weights than others.

Tue Oct 20, 2009 2:19 pm

Yea, don't forget that your first oil is only going to be used for 20 minutes. Second oil for only a 100 miles or so. Plain old 30W is what a lot of folks use for break in.